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FAQ and Wiki KnowledgebaseFAQ Roof Repairs, Do It YourSelf Roof Repairs

NEW: Our FAQ database contains answers* and DIY methods to frequently asked questions on Roofing, Venting, Waterproofing and Roofing Repairs.

Questions? Email sales@bestmaterials.com
Or call 1-800-474-7570,  602-272-8128
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  Popular Page Links:
Basement Waterproofing, Existing
Basement Waterproofing, New Construction
Concrete Expansion Joint Sealants
Directory of Information Pages (all our detailed topics pages)
EPDM Installation Instructions for a Small Roof
Roof Vent Calculations
Rubber Roof Tear Repair
RV Roof Replacement Materials List

 

 
 
FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS (AND ANSWERS)
  (we welcome all your comments and suggestions !)
 

Subject: Small Roof EPDM Installation Instructions
Q: Can you summarize the process for applying EPDM to a small wood deck roof (9x18) ? . 

A: Order 10x20 size EPDM. Unwrap EPDM and fold out on the roof deck. Let is sit a day so any wrinkles can relax. Sit EPDM in place, determine you edge fold over etc, then trim (or glue it all down, then finish trim). Prep: remove anything not flat or protruding. Fix any areas in need. Use screws, not nails (which will back out). Then you can pretty much follow this guide:

http://www.bestmaterials.com/PDF_Files/EPDM-Roof-Replacement.pdf
Adhesive: coverage is 60 sq-ft / gal (net, after both sides application). 9x18 = 162 So 3 gallons. http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=19164
It takes 2 people to apply the EPDM/Adhesive. Watch the adhesive and EPDM lay-in application methods in this movie, starting about 3:20 seconds in (ignore the insulation installation section): http://www.bestmaterials.com/video_EPDM.aspx#EPDM_Application
Mix all liquids well, including adhesive, with a mixer before applying. Let adhesive tack-dry.
Practice your technique first (like on some plywood, with a small piece of the the extra EPDM you got.
Be careful not to get bubbles under the EPDM. They are very difficult to get out. Slowly roll/move the edge of the adhesive coated EPDM back onto the adhesive coated deck, eliminating bubbles at you lay EPDM into it. This is where 2 people are needed. Work a small section at a time. After you get the EPDM down, roll it. Only a light duty roller is needed. Something like this is fine: http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=9410
The edges: apply primer+ L-metal at the edge over the EPDM: Prime metal and surfaces EPDM, http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=19719
Primer is scrubbed into the surfaces.
Then apply Coverstrip / Flashing Tape. http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=16016
Like this: http://www.bestmaterials.com/video_EPDM.aspx#EPDM_Residential_Roof_Edge_Details
Roll it well to fuse sealant to surfaces.
Caulk the edges of the Coverstrip flashing tape with M1. http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=14959

Subject: Roof Pitch Gauge / Chart
Q: Do you have a roof pitch chart or gauge? . 
A: You can print this free chart and view it against the house profile to estimate pitch:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/images/roof-pitch-chart.GIF

Subject: Concrete Driveway & Garage Joint Sealants
Q: Do you have a product that is good for sealing concrete driveway and garage expansion joints?  I currently have expansion joints and they are falling apart and I would like to re-seal them. 
A: These joints are best handled as follows:
Summary: You pry out the old joint materials. Clean joint well (wire brush & vacuum etc). Let dry as needed. Vacuum (edges should be clean and have a fresh surface). If edges are not clean, run a grinding disk or blade across them, then vacuum. Set backer rod as noted. Apply sealant, not thicker than 1/2 the width, measured at the center area. Do not apply sealant above the top plane of the concrete Tires should not push down on it.
Detail:
 * Remove old joint materials. (use pry-bars, screw drivers) . If you have old sealant in it, use one of these to remove:
* Clean joints (wire brush, then sweep, then vacuum)
* Set Backer rod. Like the photos about 1/2 down this page:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/Backer_Rod.aspx
For irregular widths, its best if backer rod fits tightly. So you can use backer rod up to 2X width.
* Apply a Self Leveling expansion joint sealant. Novalink SL is our most popular sealant:
How much sealant? See our Estimating Guide.

Subject: Polyurethane vs. Polyether Self Leveling Sealants
Q: We use a good bit of Sikaflex 1C-SL self leveling sealant at horizontal concrete control and expansion joints and are getting ready to purchase for another project. We noticed that you carry both SL1 polyurethane that we are familiar with as well as the Novalink SL Polyether (we are not familiar). Would the Novalink product compare as well to the polyurethanes? . . as far as long term durability, adhesion qualities, etc.?
A: We have been selling the Polyether based products for 9+ years now (along side polyurethanes). They have always performed well, and we have no reported failures. In particular, the Novalink Self Leveling products have some added benefits: Faster Curing (especially in lower temps), Compatibility with both Asphalt and Concrete (so you can do those concrete-to-asphalt joints), no smell, wider application temperature range (especially low temp, down to 32F), more standard color options in tubes. It also bonds to slightly damp concrete (but dry surfaces are always better).

Subject: Roof Vent Calculations
Q: I have a 2000 sq. ft. two-story building. The only vents are two 1 sq. ft grilles near front of building just below roof line, one on each side just below roof line. I have a big problem with ice buildup on the rear of building. I have been told that I need roof vents to let the trapped heat to escape so as not to melt the snow on roof. What type vent should I use, and how many?
A: This is a very complicated "calculation". This guide attic ventilation guide will help you with this: http://www.bestmaterials.com/PDF_Files/PAVbooklet.pdf

Subject: New Basement Waterproofing
Q: I want to build a basement. As such, I want it to be waterproof thoroughly. The walls will be poured concrete with re-enforced rebar in it and 8 inches thick. I realize there will be some un-avoidable cracking and possible leaks. I live in east central Indiana and can have extreme winters and summers and very wet weather?
A: A completely dry basement in all weather conditions is possible. Here are some of the key elements to consider and suggested products:
 * Underslab moisture barriers. Underseal (not in our online catalog yet) http://www.polyguardproducts.com/products/Underseal/850_images/850photobook.htm
 * Perimeter wall waterproofing membrane Flexible type, HLM 5000: http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=15620
or Cementitous Waterproofing, Thoroseal:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=16581
 * Perimeter wall drainage board http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=16672
 * Foundation drainage Above item, with perforated drains, set in gravel
 * Interior wall joint caulking and finishing with Novalink in joints: http://www.bestmaterials.com/SearchResult.aspx?categoryid=
1158
Basement Floor Coating: AES-200
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=18177
Other: Have a good roof gutter and drainage planned to move water AWAY from the house. Grade the land to shed water away. Plan on how water from neighbors water will come onto your land and what to do with it.
Subject: Sonoguard traffic system, sand in which layer?
Q: I bought base coat and topcoat and I applied base coat. Then next day I put second coat of base and a sand, and the next day I installed topcoat over the sand. Should I have put topcoat over the base and sand over the topcoat?
A: This can be confusing as there are two acceptable methods for application, both work fine: 
1. As you did: basecoat, 2nd basecoat + sand, Topcoat 2x.
2. Basecoat , topcoat + sand + roll around, 2nd topcoat +3rd topcoat.
3. Basecoat, topcoat + sand NO rolling, 2nd + 3rd topcoat.
What does not work are the Sonoguard instructions (#2) to put sand into topcoat and roll it around. This makes an awful mess and poor looking decks.
Most applicators prefer method #1. #3 is more durable, but more expensive.
Vehicular decks always require 2 topcoat layers.

Subject: Best Elastomeric Coating for Foam or Built-Up Roofing.
Q: I have an aging roof with some low / ponding water areas and slightly worn area. I'd like to extend the life and get some summertime cooling. What coating do you think is the best?
A: We have tested most everything. Testing is done side-by-side up on our own warehouse roof. Absolutely, the AES flexible epoxy is by far the best we have tested (AES-125).
http://www.bestmaterials.com/SearchResult.aspx?KeyWords=AES-125
Western Colloid WC-770 is designed for large areas and is cost effective and long lasting.
Standard elastomeric acrylics discolor and begin to lose thickness within months. The AES system dries with a semi-gloss which allows most dirt to be washed away from a rain. The brightness and full coating thickness is still there after many years. Ponding water performance is the same. It can be applied over either foam, built-up roofing, granulated cap sheet or metal roofing. You can cut down the cost by applying it over a basecoat of acrylic elastomeric. The bright white coating cooled our warehouse by about 10 degrees in the hot Phoenix summers. Product can be color tinted.

Subject: Repair of Leaking Tile over Wood Balcony
Q: I've got a 4' x 6' ceramic-tiled balcony which I suspect is the entry point for significant water leakage into the room below. Rather than tearing out the existing tile & grout, I was hoping there was some type of sealant available. The balcony is exposed to full sun & rain.
A; Properly, the wood deck should have been 100% waterproofed before the tile was added. Unfortunately, this is a very common building defect. The wood deck under the tile moves a lot during weather changes, and the grout/tile over it just sits there. So cracking along the grout occurs. Repairing is good for a season, then it re-cracks. Properly, you need to remove the tile, waterproof, then reset tile, preferably with flexible & waterproof thinset/grouting. These links explain it further. under-tile waterproofing http://www.bestmaterials.com/deck_coatings.aspx#
Or you can just apply the deck coating system, and leave it. They are very durable.
As a temporary measure, many have had success with a couple of coats of Enviroseal 40. It may need to reapplied a couple seasons until its built up enough. http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=16483

Subject: Asphalt Products and Polyurethane Incompatibility
Q: I may have used the wrong product…..I have a polyurethane foam roof, it had blisters in it that I cut out and then filled in with a Henry asphalt based flashing cement. Some of the patches ended up being a couple of inches deep, so the flashing cement has hardened on the surface but is still very mushy below (it’s been a couple of weeks). Questions:
Did I screw up by not using a foam or polyurethane patch for the blisters, or will the flashing cement work fine? Will the 2” thick patches always remain mushy because it’s too thick of an application for the flashing cement?
A: Most asphalt based products are incompatible with polyurethane foam products. Over time, they will chemically react, and the interfaces will separate.  You may need to cut out all the Henry filled areas, prime to seal, fill with foam and recoat over the foam with an elastomeric roofing coating (to protect the foam from sun/uv and other damage.
Small foam repair kits: http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=9149
Elastomeric Roof Coating http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=11790
 or http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=17295
Primer: http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=17245

Subject: RV Roof Repairs
Q: I've read about most of your products but still would like your recommendation as to what to use. I have a fifth wheel camper with rubber roof bout 10 years old I have had leaks where rubber meets the plastic at each end, also the sky light and have many vents air conditioner antennas and so forth some have been patched with silicone and some with butyl rubber , the rubber sticks the best. I would like something self leveling that would stick to the butyl calk that is in place what do I need to clean the surface with and do I need to coat the entire rubber roof with something if so what should I use.
A: Each area requires a slightly different set of materials, but the same preparation.
PREP (as in most jobs, its most the work):
1. Remove all traces of silicone sealants. Nothing wants to stay stuck to them, and in the sun they gradually lose adhesion to what they are supposed to seal. Use a razor knife or sharp pocket knife and scrape away. Then a kitchen scrub sponge or scotch brite pad. Then Eternaclean and a rag. Eternaclean link: http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=15748
2. Prime: Especially for EPDM surfaces which will get sealed. Don't apply outside the sealing area, as primer will discolor in the sun. http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=16490
APPLY SEALANT:
* Around ROUND or IRREGULAR penetrations (like pipes, antennas etc), use M1 sealant: http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=14959
* At the front cab to epdm roof interface, and EPDM seams: EPDM COVER STRIP (heavy duty EPDM faced with peel/stick): http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=16016
* At roof edges, and for the A/C units or similar square boxes on the roof: Use Eternabond RoofSeal White (it will more readily wrap corners): Its possible to use the Eternabond on the CAB/ROOF joint, but the Eternabond is not as durable for this joint. http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=11341
 * ROLL WELL all tape sealants to fuse to the surface, using a good roller.

Subject: Question on boot flashings for high pitch roof
Q: I'm looking to order a boot flashing in silicone for a stove pipe. The question I have is the pitch of the roof is steeper than normal (18/12 pitch) should I order the regular size I would need (in this case it'd be 8S) or should I order one size larger for the higher pitch? I'm unable to go through the roof at an angle so straight through is my only option.
A: Regarding your roof pitch, 18/12 is about 56 degrees. These boots do not accommodate this angle easily. To have your pipe exit straight up, you should have a sheet metal pipe flashing built, then seal the top with a rubber seal (which we can supply).

Subject: Rubber Roof Tear Repair
Q: I recently had a tree fall on my 5th wheel, One of the branches tore an 18' x 30" flap off my rubber roof. it is still attached at one end. Is this repairable with your products?
A: REPAIR OF TEAR IN RV EPDM ROOF (or fixing loose areas):
1. Make a few small slits along damaged area into good area using a razor knife so that you can peel back the tear to clean under it. Trim off the rough edges so you will have a clean repair line.
2. Clean BOTH the underlying roof surface AND underside of EPDM material well. Use a scrubber and Eternaclean cleaner. Let dry. If you cannot clean surfaces well, use Eternaprime primer on both surfaces. Let cure about an hour. Cleaner: http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=15748
 Primer: http://bestmaterials.com/SearchResult.aspx?KeyWords=eternaprime
3. Apply either: Thin beads of M1 adhesive sealant, OR Eternabond DOUBLESTICK tape, in the area UNDER the EPDM roofing materials which need to be re-stuck down. For the M1 sealant, spread out material (with a notched trowel or similar). Reapply EPDM Roofing to this surface and walk on / squeegee with hand or roller to remove any bubbles. For the DoubleStick, its INSTANT stick. No cure needed. Roll well to fuse the surfaces. DoubleStick: http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=15343
For M1, its less expensive, and needs to cure. Here is a link. http://bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=14846
For large area repairs, use EPDM BONDING ADHESIVE: http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=16077
4. OPTIONAL: Mechanically fasten both sides of repair area after adhering down. Install a series of short stainless steel ring shank nails (or flathead screws) on both sides of tear area. This will provide mechanical reinforcement for the tear area: http://bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=15222
5. If M1 sealant is used, let the M1 cure 2 days (it needs to outgas a bit).
6. Clean the EPDM roof surface using Eternaclean in the area where the new top surfaces repair tape will be applied. Cleaner: http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=15748
7. THEN cover the repair area (and any fasteners used) with either EPDM COVERSTRIP or ROOFSEAL WHITE repair tape, overlapping the tape about 1-2 inches outside the repair area/nails. This will seal out the water and hide the repair nicely. Use a roller and apply: 4" RoofSeal (not foot-traffic grade) http://bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=11341 or 6" wide if needed: http://bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=11342
You can overlap tape as needed, no problem. EPDM COVERSTRIP (this is a heavy duty product will take foot traffic): http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=16016
 8. Use remaining M1 sealant to seal edges, corners, laps and any details which look like its needed. If a larger area repair is needed, we have lots of smaller EPDM pieces. Let us know the size you need and we may have a piece we can sell you inexpensively. You can attach it using M1 or EPDM Bonding Adhesive: http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=16077
 

Subject: Black EPDM roofing membrane
Q: I own a 34 motor home whose roof is in poor condition. Can I put a new EPDM membrane over the old one or must I remove the old one completely?  Why use a 60 mil over 45 mil?
A: If the old roof is adhered well, its possible to adhere the new one over the old one. And this is a lot less work. The 60 mil EPDM will have double the life of the 45, and is much more damage resistance. White color is not available in 45 mil. In putting new over old, you need to clean the old one well, prime, and then apply adhesive as directed. Products are here:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=16014
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=16012
For a 40 foot motor home, the  typical roof replacement list is here: http://www.bestmaterials.com/savedcart2.aspx?id=cart4
You can click BUY NOW to add all items to cart, then you can edit cart as desired.

Subject: RV Roof Replacement Materials List
Q: I am repairing my RV. It need also roof repair. The roof is 8 feet wide and 27 feet long. Please give me an estimate about all roof covering material and other necessary materials.
A: This sample cart should cover it. Its for a 9x30 foot area, with a rooftop A/C.
http://www.bestmaterials.com/savedcart2.aspx?id=cart3
Press BUY NOW and all items will add to cart, and you can then edit quantities as you like.
Installation
 RV Roof Replacement Pictorial (use together with above guides)

Subject: RV Rubber Roof Coating
Q: I have a RV with a EPDM roof that is staring to show its black base through the white. It has never been coated and I would like to coat it. Do you have a product compatible with EPDM?  
A: All roofing materials will slowly weather. The RV rubber EPDM is a white layer over a black, so when you see gray, its about 1/2 worn away. You can coat this to extend roof life.
RoofMate HT has performed very well for our customers for this. http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=16573
First you clean roof (scrub with soap and water and rags or a scrub brush). Let this dry. Make and seam or detail repairs. M1 is excellent: http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=14959
As is Eternabond: http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=11341

Prime field area: Primer is scrubbed into surface with a scotch brite pad. Let prime dry, an hour or so. Then apply first coating layer. It goes on thick. Primer: http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=19719


Subject: Best EPDM Seam Construction
Q: I am re-doing my RV roof with white epdm. I will have a seam across it and I am having a hard time understanding which seam seal method I should use. Can you help me understand this?
1)  3" or 4" seam tape, with primer?
2)  4" double stick 60mil no primer ($57.95 for 50')?
3) Splice adhesive ($60.00 for 1 quart)
A: The best practice is to create a double lap-seam. It will out-live the roof. Create as follows:
 1. clean, overlapping EPDM pieces, in preparation for 3" wide Doublestick. If you have an OLD
roof surface, prime the surfaces first. New EPDM can be generally just cleaned well.
Insurance: Just prime both surfaces before applying Doublestick seam material.
2. apply use 3" Eternabond Doublestick Seam tape (Doublesided sticky tape sealant), and roll well.
3. Then cover the exposed seam edge with a piece of COVERSTIP TAPE (6" wide, EPDM faced peel/stick tape). PRIOR to applying this, clean surface and prime. Only prime in areas where the coverstrip will be exposed.
Now you have a double sealed seam, which will take foot traffic, and outlast the rest of the roof.

Subject: Deck Post Caulking / Sealant
Q: I am looking for a sealant to put at the connection of 2" diameter metal deck rail uprights as it connects to a wood sill. The uprights have a 3"x3" plate with 4 screw holes at each location. There is a shoe that then covers the plate. The location is 2 blocks from the ocean and is susceptible to a lot of moisture. Any ideas? Thanks.
A: We suggest Novalink sealant. Its available in some nice colors and 100% solids (non-shrinking), and is paintable.
http://www.bestmaterials.com/SearchResult.aspx?categoryid=1158
Application Summary: Clean areas well before applying (sandpaper is good). Apply to screws holes before inserting, around perimeter of base and top and perimeter of the cover plate. Use a bead of about 1/2 inch wide. Use masking tape to make nice lines if you are not used to dispensing. Clean-up: WD-40 works on your hands before its cured. If integrity of wood is in question, add primer. Do not apply primer outside of sealant area, as it will discolor in the sun. Primer: http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=15866

Subject: EPDM Edge Tear Repairs
Q: I have a 'Stevens-EP' roof made by JPS Elastomerics of Holyoke, MA. The membrane is cracking at the edges of the roof where it is stretched over the edge corner, 90 degree not rounded, of the plywood underlayment. The company that installed the roof is no longer in business. My question is will your line of products for EPDM work on the 'Stevens-EP' roof?
A: We have a couple of products for this repair. Most popular is RoofSeal White. Its a peel/stick product. It readily folds over the edge of the roofing. Our EPDM faced products are good too, but do not wrap the edge readily.
Eternaobond is available in white or black face. Here are the links:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=11341
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=11337
Application: EPDM CLEANING: The can be accomplished several methods, depending on the type of cleaning needed. The objective is to remove all surfaces contaminate and create a fresh surfaces. Burnishing with a plastic scrub pad is quick and effective. Eternaclean is also effective. For very large areas, scrubbing with a mixture of TSP and bleach is used by some. Regardless, the final surface must be free of dirt and not have any powder-like residues. OPTIONAL: Follow cleaning with an EPDM Primers.  Apply Eternabond RoofSeal tape and roll well to fuse to the EPDM.

Subject: waterproofing of a concrete slab to wall
Q: I have a problem with a slab that poured which was not leveled correctly. This drainage is sloped back towards a garage wall which is causing flooding through the garage when we have heavy rains. The wall is hardboard siding framed on wooden base plates with wooden studs. I would like to know if you have a product which will allow me to waterproof this wall.
A: Although we are not there to view all the construction details and drainage issues, we suggest you consider this general method:
1. Remove all traces of old sealants by scraping.
2. Clean/powerwash all surfaces.
3. Allow to completely dry
4. Prime both wood and concrete areas to be sealed using a penetrating primer. Let primer dry. http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=15679
5. Apply RoofSeal tape in a L shape to both surfaces. http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=15736
OPTIONAL: Add a bead of waterproofing sealant to the joint area BEFORE applying Eternabond RoofSeal Tape. Such as NP1 sealant. This will strengthen the joint area and take some stress off the tape. NP1 will take 3-5 days to cure, before adding the RoofSeal Tape. http://www.bestmaterials.com/SearchResult.aspx?CategoryID=1066
I would consider adding a complete waterproofing to the concrete walkway to prevent water absorption, and this water moving under the structure. Otherwise, at a minimum, protect all the concrete area with Enviroseal 40. http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=16483

Subject: Asphalt bonding primer for Polyurea
Q: We are coating asphalt walkways and balconies with Polyurea. We have a primer that we have used in the past but it takes between 4 and 8 hrs to dry which is obviously not helpful for us as the walkways tend to lead directly into the tenants accommodation, and the Polyurea itself dries in 3-5seconds . Also do you have any other products that adhere to asphalt/ mastic asphalt surfaces?
A: We suggest you consider UNISEAL waterbased primer which can be used on asphaltic surfaces, as well as most other common ones. http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=15679
Also the WC 970 primer.
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=17245
And Nitoprime 60, a two-component 100% solids penetrating epoxy sealer. It is designed to prime concrete and masonry before the application of epoxy liners and polyurea top coats.
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=17530

Subject: Enviroseal 40
Q: I need to seal the brick on a church, is this the right product to use? What type of sprayer do you recommend? The church has very porous brick. What do you feel would be the proper application rate?
A: For brick walls, the Enviroseal 20 will work fine. Here is a link: http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=16699
Product instructions and application rate / yield information is here: http://www.bestmaterials.com/PDF_Files/e20_tdg.pdf
Sprayers: a Hudson type, hand-pump, low pressure, non-atomizing type sprayer is commonly used, such as Deck and FenceTM sprayer models 67981 (1-gal Quick 'n Easy), 67991 (1-gal) and 67992 (2-gal).

Subject: lead pipe flashing for sloped roof
Q: I am not certain about these sizes, but for pricing sake, let's assume that the pipe I am putting through the roof is 3 + 1/2" O.D. (PVC drain pipe Schedule 40). I guess that would require a Jack L 375. Let's also assume that the flange width is about 20" and the length up/down roof is about 24". The slate exposure is 7 ", with 12" wide slates. I need to determine the exact size for the flange from this. Are there standard size flanges for slate roof fixtures? I know there are, but haven't seen exactly what they are.
A: Yes, we can fabricate these. They are custom made. Please let us know the base size you desire, and the exact Diameter of the pipe you need to flash in.  On high slope roofs, having it a bit larger is always good.

Subject: 2003 Topaz 5th-Wheel RV Roof
Q: We have noticed a one foot stretch on our roof where the membrane of the roof has lifted. There does not seem to be any perforations at this time. What is your suggestion to repair this problem.
A: We presume that your RV roof is EPDM and the adhesive layer is letting go in this area.
Repair is to cut an X in this, clean underneath, apply EPDM adhesive according to instructions, replace EPDM.  Now across the X-Cuts, apply a layer of COVERSTRIP (very durable, EPDM Faced with peel/stick adhesive). Before applying this, clean roofing surface well, prime if needed, apply Coverstrip and roll-in well to fuse sealant to roof surface.
Products:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=16077
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=16490
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=16016

Subject: EPDM Roof, Cold Weather Repairs
Q: What do you have in a low temperature sealer for a flat rubber roof in good condition on a large house. Looks like EPDM. What we do is spot treat areas of concern at this time of year, and into early winter (which is why we're seeking low temperature). There was once a clear rubberized elastomeric spray...but what might you have for this?
A: Eternabond is popular for this repair:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=11337
In very low temps, use together with primer:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=11025
Cold Weather Repair Video:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/video_eternabond.aspx#Eternabond_Cold_Weather_Roof_Repairs
EPDM Repairs
EPDM Roof Repair with Eternabond

Subject: PVC Roof Repair
Q: I have a pvc deck on top of my garage and had to replace the railing. I had to poke holes through the roofing to install the new 4x4 wood posts and now the roof is leaking. There were cleats by the posts that also had to come out so I need to repair several 4"x6"spots and everything around the posts. What do you recommend to fix the leaks.
A: Here is a link to a movie on repairing PVC roof leaks. http://www.bestmaterials.com/video_eternabond.aspx#Single_Ply_Roof_Seam_Repair_with_Eternabond
Product links for ordering or more information:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=15748.
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=15735
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=11341
For odd areas, you can use M1 sealant. Clean and prep as with Eteranbond: http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=15586  or
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=14959

Subject: Chimney Waterproofing / Enviroseal
Q: We are interested in using "Enviroseal 40" to stop a leak that is entering my family room around the bottom of the fireplace stone work. The exterior of the fireplace chimney is composed of brickwork running from the patio deck to the roof and is entirely exposed to the weather. Roof repairs, chimney and chimney flash plate have been worked on with negative results. I am contemplating applying "Enviroseal 40" to this exterior brickwork to stop this mysterious leak. The question is; would this product be recommended for this application or would an alternative product be more appropriate for this application. On the other hand; have any of your workforce run into this problem before and if so can you advise as to where this type of leak can be originating.
A: It is common for these mystery leaks to start up the on the side of the chimney, and make there way through to the bottom. Many stones and grout will absorb water like a sponge -- especially in wind-driven rain. So treating the entire outside is generally required. The treatment is to apply Enviroseal 20 or 40 starting from the top of the chimney and all the way down.
The Enviroseal 20 is generally ok for the vertical applications. Here is how:

Subject: Parking garage- traffic area waterproofing
Q: I am looking to do waterproof 8 seams , and a couple of expansion joints , each seam- joint is about 50 feet long , and I want to do a 2ft width over the area's , to overlap them, can you give me and idea of what it would cost ,
A: For expansion joints and seams, these are handled somewhat separately from the waterproofing of the main concrete deck surface.
Generally, the process is:
1. degrease / clean decks.
2. remove old sealants from joints (grind out with one of these or similar method: http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=16419
 Also grind small cracks, as needed for repair with NP1 sealant. http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=16423
3. Clean decks again as needed
4. fix and seal small cracks. Use either a crack repair product, or NP1. Tool to create a flat surface. http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=10845
 or http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=17323
5. apply basecoat, aggregate layers and topcoats
6. finally, set backer rod and apply expansion joint sealant http://www.bestmaterials.com/Backer_Rod.aspx
http://www.bestmaterials.com/SearchResult.aspx?categoryid=1151
If you have saw-cut type joints, clean and fill with NP1 before applying step 5.
More information about concrete construction and waterproofing practice:
Specifications for Structural Concrete
Specs on Structural Concrete
If you just want to do the saw-cut joints and expansion joints, you can see the general process and materials above.
How much sealant? See our Estimating Guide.
Deck Waterproofing Coverage: 5G pail of Basecoat covers about 200 sqft. 5G pail of Topcoat covers about 400 sqft PER LAYER. If you are applying sand aggregate, you will need to increase the topcoat to 2 layers (one layer with sand in it, then the final layer)  

Subject: filling concrete expansion joints
Q: We would like your recommendation for filling a couple of expansion joints in a concrete driveway which we recently cleaned out. It appears that these joints were previously filled with an asphalt like material. These joints measure somewhere between 5/8 to ¾ inch in width and 4 inches deep. Based on reading at your web site, it appears that a closed cell backer rod might be best. The questions we have are: 1. What kind of backer rod would you recommend? ( need a part number for ordering)
2. What sort of sealant should be used? ( need a part number for ordering )
3. How much sealant will be required per foot of backer rod?
4. Can the sealant be applied with the usual caulking gun?
5. Based on the diagrams at your web site which shows the backer rod covered by sealant, there will be an area unfilled below the backer rod. Should this unfilled are below the backer rod be left empty? If not, what should this area be filled with? ( need a part number for ordering )
A: Here is a link to the backer rod: You should use CLOSED CELL type of backer rod. http://www.bestmaterials.com/Backer_Rod.aspx
The products designed for concrete expansion joint sealant are "Self Leveling Sealants". There are several types. I like the Novalink SL best, as it will seal joint up to 2" of width, is pre-tinted, single component and quick curing. Here is a link: http://www.bestmaterials.com/SearchResult.aspx?categoryid=1151
Before applying, you clean the joint, add backer rod, tape edges if desired (recommended) and apply sealant. Remove tape as soon as materials start to set. Make sure the backer rod fills all gaps. Any gaps will allow sealant to run out before curing. Putting rock or sand under the backer rod is optional. If there is a large gap down there, you may wish to fill it some before setting backer rod. Your option.
Joint cleaning can be done with wire brush or other power tools. Professional applicator use grinding blades like these: http://www.bestmaterials.com/SearchResult.aspx?categoryid=1180
Application tools for sealant: Either use a caulk gun, or one of these:
Squeeze Bottle Jug
Do a small test area first to practice your technique. Email us with any questions or problems.

Subject: Sonoguard Application
Q: I am getting ready to recoat the Sonoguard on my houseboat roof deck and was wondering if I need to recoat the entire deck with the basecoat and then the topcoat or can I just apply the topcoat over the Sonoguard currently on the houseboat. It is not in that bad of shape. It serves as a roof and also a deck so people do walk and sit on the roof. 
A: To apply a new Sonoguard topcoat over an existing system, we suggest this process:
1. powerwash & let dry.
2. swab with a rag and xylene (high purity, no alcohol in it). This will activate the surface for the new topcoat layer to adhere to. CAUTION: Xylene is flammable and hazardous. Avoid breathing, skin and eye contact. OR-
2. Apply primer, such as this one: http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=15551
Do not use alcohol or alcohol contaminated tools.
3. Open topcoat can. Remove any skin on the top using a gloved hand. Mix coating thoroughly using a power drill and mixer: http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=14841
4. Roll on new topcoat. Don't apply too thick. Use a 1/4" nap Phenolic roller and roll from a paint pan.
5. Clean up of Sonoguard off your skin: Use WD-40.
More hints are here: wood based decks

Subject: Deck Seam Repairs, Sonoguard Recoat and Repair Methods
Q: I have a tear or split in a Sonoguard deck. What is the repair method? Can I use regular sheets sheets of plywood in repairs? Is the Sonoguard strong enough (flexible) to deal with the joints? Or do I need to use some sort of joint seaming tape...?
A: Sonoguard /Deck Repairs:
Cracks and Tears require an investigation so that the root cause of the defect is addressed.
Common Causes Include:
* deck are nailed, not glued and screwed
* screws missed the studs
* insufficient number of screws
* deck was not constructed with tongue/groove plywood
* plywood was installed without sufficient expansion joint
* plywood was rained on before deck coating was applied
* plywood was not made with exterior grade plywood
* no reinforcement of seams and flashing to deck was done
* too thin of coating layers were applied
How to Investigate:
* sand/grind area with cut small sections with a razor knife to expose deck surface. http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=14807
* Inspect to see construction defect.
Repair Structural Part
* Repair as needed (add screws, reinforce deck, or re-sheet deck)
* Reinforce repair area with fiberglass cloth embedded in basecoat or NP1, and let cure. http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=9698
Apply new deck coat system, including base coat. Follow this general outline: wood based decks. Its your option to apply one or two top coats. Two will last longer. Don't apply one thick coat.
TEMPORARY REPAIRS: cracks can be cut out in a V-shape using a razor knife, and filled with NP1. Cut in a 1/4 to 3/8" wide V. Apply NP1 and tool top till level. http://www.bestmaterials.com/SearchResult.aspx?CategoryID=1066
MORE DETAIL regarding construction of seams: both edges should be glued and screwed down. No nails. Then the two edges should be checked to assure the heights are the same. If now, grind them. Apply plywood with proper expansion gap (dime thickness). Fill all gaps with NP1. Then apply reinforcement membrane and embed in either NP1 or a stripe of Basecoat.
If your suspect your deck may have a problem, Re-sheet with a 2nd layer of plywood, laid cross direction to the first. I would add a second sheet layer over the first if it already built without glue and screws. Screw and glue the second layer. All plywood should be exterior grade (water resistant adhesives), and knot free on the top side.

Subject: Warehouse Expansion Joint Resealing, Sl-1
Q: What is the best item to put in expansion joints? We have a large warehouse and use forklifts that push heavy steel around. Poly’s don’t hold up well. We put an epoxy in one building, but that was very time consuming (had to pour out of little cups). Got any ideas for me? I need to do at least 1 more warehouse with 30,000 sf…about 6,000 linear feet ¼” wide.
A: Warehouse expansion joints can be challenging. Old joints can be chipped along the edges in the high traffic areas. Also, differences in high of two slabs can make smooth transition a problem.
We suggest this process:
1. plane/grind the two adjoining surfaces where needed to assure matching heights. http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=16438
2. clean out the joint. http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=16416
3. Apply closed cell backer rod where needed: http://www.bestmaterials.com/Backer_Rod.aspx
4. Apply TF100 sealant. Make sure its below the level of the top: http://www.bestmaterials.com/SearchResult.aspx?KeyWords=TF-100
To speed application, apply duct tape on either side of joint, mix a batch of product, then put in and fill joint from a fine-spouted plastic watering can.
5. Let materials cure thoroughly before traffic. If this is not possible, place plywood over traffic areas until 100% cured.
6. Sweep joints regularly to keep them clean.

Subject: Terry Trailer Roof Repair
Q: My recently purchased 94 Terry has been neglected and has some roof damage due to a bad spot being untended for a period of time, it has not gotten so bad that it shows on the inside ceiling but obviously has rotted a spot in the plywood and likely some damage to the ceiling joists. The roof material appears serviceable for a few years except at the rip/rot area, it's blue underneath with a white coating which is flaking 2. all caulking and seams need attention 3. It looks like it needs a coat of something - if not outright replacement of total, but maybe could be patched for a few years more? 4. There is a little sag at the a/c which could be eliminated by removing some plywood and beefing up the joists which hold it up <assuming there is no water intrusion there> 5. IF I chose to take on the project and replace the covering totally A. All those openings look like a challenge to get right - does the fabric go down on a flat surface and then the curbs <which presumably are removed prior to stripping the roof> get replaced on top? Or does the fabric have to be cut to fit over the curbs <a super challenge to get right>. B. Does the plywood on the roof get an overlay of new material so that there is new material for bonding with the glue penetration? In some of the literature it seems to suggest that, while in others it does not. 6. My roof is less than 30' long, but has a number of openings as you can see, I'll need some help getting the order right as if/and/or when I do this it will be outside and I'll not be in a place to take a break while waiting for materials in the mail.
A: You have a complex repair / restoration project.
Our suggestion is removal & replacement. Otherwise you may miss something and be back at square-1.  Here is an approach to consider:
1. Remove all the roof top items (a/c, vents, antenna etc).
2. Remove EPDM trim strip around the edge.
3. Strip off all the old EPDM roofing.
4. Make needed wood deck repairs. USE A CHEAP TARP TO PROTECT TOP WHILE THIS WORK IS IN PROGRESS: http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=15398
5. Install new EPDM materials. Use this guide: http://www.bestmaterials.com/PDF_Files/EPDM-Roof-Replacement.pdf  and this guide: http://www.bestmaterials.com/RV_Roof_Replacement.aspx
SEAMS: These can be quite reliable. Follow instructions for SEAMS AND SEAM REPAIRS: EPDM Repairs
6. Reattach roof top items. Seal with M1 sealant, under the foot of each item and again around the perimeter. http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=14959
7. Reattached the perimeter trim strip with new butyl rubber sealant: http://www.bestmaterials.com/butyl-rubber-sealant-caulk-1103.html
Here is an example of a repair kit for a 10x30 area: http://www.bestmaterials.com/savedcart2.aspx?id=cart3
Click BUY NOW and this adds all the items to your cart. You can edit cart from there to add/remove as you wish.

Subject: Question regarding Enviroseal 40 Concrete/Masonry Silane Penetrating Sealer
Q: I live in Michigan, and am looking for penetrating concrete sealer for my driveway. We go through freeze/thaw cycles quite a few times in the winter, and they salt the roads quite a bit, which tracks road salt into our driveway. Our driveway is almost 2 years old, but I have noticed that because of the freeze/thaw cycles and the road salt, that the driveways of neighbors who have driveways a few years older have 'popped' or flaked badly on the service. I would like to prevent this, and was wondering if this product would be okay on a driveway, and work to prevent the situation that I described. I have looked locally, and they all have the film-forming glossy type sealers that need to be applied year after year and just set on the surface, which I don't want. I want something that when dries won't be noticeable, and that will be a once and done, or at least once every several years type thing. Will Enviroseal 40 this product work for my intended purpose?
A: This product will help this a lot. Apply in two coats. Also making sure the expansion joints are well sealed is very important. Use SL1 or Novalink SL together with closed-cell backer rod on the expansion joints. Here are links to these items:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=16483
Product data sheet http://www.bestmaterials.com/PDF_Files/e40_tdg.pdf
Use Closed Cell Backer rod: http://www.bestmaterials.com/Backer_Rod.aspx
SL sealants http://www.bestmaterials.com/SearchResult.aspx?categoryid=969
Crack repair kit: http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=17323

Subject: Steel Beam EPDM Roof Penetration Seal
Q: I am writing to inquire about obtaining the appropriate materials to seal the openings in our EPDM roofing where a metal frame for a bell will be installed in our church’s bell tower.
The frame will penetrate the roofing in 5 places. The four legs of the frame are 2” x 3” steel tubing and the bell pull rope will go through a steel pipe with a 1” outside diameter. The bell frame and pipe will go through the membrane, through the underlying insulating foam, through the corrugated steel and tie into steel cross beams under the ‘floor’ of the bell tower opening.
A: We would suggest to consider this approach:
1. 2x3 Frame members: These will move around some during winter/summer months relative to the top of the roof (expansion/contraction). So a flexible seal is recommended. I would suggest a retrofit boot, in black EPDM (which will match everything). One like this: http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=16029
2. The top of this will wrap around the perimeter of the 2x3 pipe. Seal edge at the top with a generous amount of black M1 sealant:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=14958
3. Base part of boot should be screwed through the EPDM membrane to the deck. This is up to you. M1 sealant only under the bottom edge, plus a generous bead around the perimeter may do. If you use screws, use roofing screws (washered) and do not over-tighten. Use M1 around screws when done. I would probably add some screws, but I am not there to see construction details. BEFORE APPLYING M1 to existing EPDM surface to seal, scrub the surface with a new plastic kitchen scrubber to get a fresh clean surface.
For your 1" pipe, use the same technique, but use one of these boots: http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=16028
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=16056

Subject: SS Roofing Screws Corrosion Test
Q: I just received my order of stainless steel roofing screws and they appear to be bright zinc plated and highly magnetic. How do I confirm they are stainless steel.
A: Many roofing screws use a magnetic grade of Stainless Steel and this is confusing to many customers. Most zinc screws are yellow-zinc.
You can test as follows: file an edge down. Place in a small glass of salt water over night, and look for rust the next morning (put a nail in another glass as a comparison).
Magnetic test: compare magnetic adhesion with a magnetic to that of a common nail. 

Subject: AES Epoxy Tinting
Q: I purchashed 50 gals of AES 125. The instructions on your web site says it can be tinted by Sherwin-Williams but to email you for instructions. Could you please send me the instructions.
A: Tinting Instructions: Tint B side only (white side), using epoxy compatible pigments (oil based).
Tint to lighter colors only. Dark tints will not come out.
You just need to advise them that these are epoxy based paints, and to tint using epoxy compatible materials.
Dark shades will not tint well. Stick to lighter shades. The AES factory can tint darker shades on large orders.

Subject: EPDM Roofing System, RV Trailer Roofing Repairs
Q: I’m trying to get some information on the right process or procedure including correct products and materials to make appropriate repairs to my 31’-RV 5th wheel trailer roofing EPDM system.
At the present time the 3-year old EPDM roofing system is starting to produce Black streaks, and spots all over the top of the membrane, and cracking to the fabric where it transition over the edge of the roof and attaches to the side of the RV.
Can you recommend a solution to this problem, that I can perform with your products?
Other than washing the roof with warm water and soap with a soft bristle brush and then rising it off with cold water a few time a year, no other products have been introduced to the existing roofing system. I was under the impression that the existing EPDM roofing system would last at least 10-years? I’m in hopes that a product is available to bring the existing roofing system back to its original white luster.
A: The white EPDM roofs on most RVs are made with a layered white / black membrane. The outer layer is white, and wears / erodes over time. Under the white is the black layer. The appearance of the black layer indicates the membrane is worn 1/2 way through. Its likely 40 mil thick material, so what it left is pretty thin.
Yes, it should last 10 years in my opinion. 3 years is REALLY short.
Depending on how long you wish to keep your RV, we have a couple of solutions: coating or roof replacement.
Roof replacement will cost about $2 per sq ft in materials. This material is 60 mils thick and will last a LONG time. It has a lifetime warranty when applied to a home.
Roof Coating: It will, by itself, last another 7-10 years, and will cost $.65 to $1.00 / sqft, depending on if you have leftover coating or not.
EDGES: If you are coating, these are wrapped with Eternabond Roofseal, before coating.

Subject: Backer rod and expansion joint sealant
Q: I have had a new exposed aggregate driveway put in. The expansion joints are 3/8 inch wide and 1-1.5 inches deep. I was planning on using Novalink SL ( self-leveling expansion joint sealant) with a 3/8 inch backer rod for the job. Is this the best option for the life of the driveway? Also I was planning on sealing the driveway. What product would you recommend?
A: The backer rod needs to be at least 25% wider than the joint to set tightly and seal. So, perhaps 5/8" closed cell would be best. You can purchase this by the foot here:
Concrete waterproofing sealers. These silane based products, which penetrate well and provide long lasting protection. They dry flat, but will increase the look of the area.
Acrylic based products dry with some sheen. But they do not breathe well and can show white spots during humid periods:

Subject: Application of SL1 -Expansion Joint Fillers
Q: Can you tell me what kind of equipment (Pump or Gun) I need to use 4 gallons of SL1 filler materials. If equipment is available then how much it cost.
I have 1” wide and 500’ of expansion length to cover.
A: There are two methods for dispensing BULK SL1. I like this simple one:
You can dispense it with a fine-spout squeeze bottle, like this:
Or, just dispense from the tubes (most popular):
How much sealant:

Subject: 24X30 galvanized gable louver vent Dimensions
Q: Regarding dimensions. I am not familiar with "call-out".
1. I assume for a 24"x30" vent, 24"x30" is the size of the hole for the vent. 2. The louvers that extend into the hole are 23-1/2"x29-1/2" (1/2" less). 3. The overall flange size is 25"x31" (1-1/2" more than the louvers in #2).
I will need two vents to obtain the necessary free air area. One 24"x24" and one 24"x30".
A: Here are answers, regarding FLUSH MOUNT designs:
 1. 24"x30" vent: 24"x30" is the size of the hole for the vent.  YES.
 2. The louvers that extend into the hole are 23-1/2"x29-1/2" (1/2" less). YES
 3. Overall flange size is 26"x32". FLANGE IS 1-1/2" WIDE. EACH SIDE "OVERLAPS" the LOUVER OPENING BY ABOUT 1/2".
I will need two vents to obtain the necessary free air area.  One 24"x24" and one 24"x30".
24x30 FLUSH MOUNT:

Subject: RV Rubber Roof Repair
Q: I need to replace the EPDM Rubber roof on my 25Ft fifth wheel . Could you give me a price for a kit to re-do my roof.  Roof is 7 ft wide and 25 ft long.
A: Here is a sample order for a 10 x 30 foot roof area:
After you click the above link, press BUY NOW to load all the items to a shopping cart. You can then edit the cart for your project and needs.
For your 7 x 25 foot roof (175 square feet), you can choose to do this in one piece or with seams. Seams, when made to specifications are very durable and nothing to be concerned about.
 So, you could purchase 22 feet (x 10 wide), and make this into 3 "strips" which would create 2 seams in the roof. Or you could purchase one piece, 10 x 26 feet (we always add a foot for any errors in measurements).
 For the SEAMS if you choose this, you will need to increase WHITE EPDM COVERSTIP TAPE (item 4) to increase to 15 feet (to make 2, 7-foot pieces). Otherwise you can delete this item.
For the LC-60 BONDING ADHESIVE, you will need less. Only about 3 gallons. Add 3-gallons of this item, and eliminate the 5G can:
RV Roof Replacement Pictorial (use together with above guides)

Subject: Concrete Seam Sealer around Pool Coping
Q: I was wondering if you could recommend a sealer. I have a 1/2 to 3/4
seam between the pool coping and the coolcrete (asbestos decking). I
can't find a product that fits this description, can you point me to
one? I would prefer a commercial solution in place of a consumer one,
but I am open to some degree.
A: The products designed for concrete type expansion joints are "Self Leveling Sealants". There are several types. Novalink SL is good as it will seal joint up to 2" of width, is pre-tinted, single component and is quick curing, but not a tough as Polyurethane SL. Here is a link: http://www.bestmaterials.com/SearchResult.aspx?categoryid=1151
Before applying, you clean the joint, add backer rod, tape outside top edges if desired (to form a straight seal line along the top) and apply sealant. Remove tape as soon as materials start to set.
Here is a link to the backer rod: You should use CLOSED CELL type of backer rod. Set backer rod to a depth of 1/2 the average width of the joint near the top. http://www.bestmaterials.com/Backer_Rod.aspx
Joint cleaning can be done with wire brush or other power tools. Professional applicator use grinding blades like these: http://www.bestmaterials.com/SearchResult.aspx?categoryid=1180

Subject: Waterproofing Residential Basement Concrete Walls
Q: I am looking for a product that can be applied to the exterior of a residential basement wall to waterproof it. I am digging out the wall wand will repair any cracks, but I want to apply a membrane an or a coating that will waterproof the walls. Can you suggest a product live in the Chicago area.
A: We have a few products for this application.
HLM5000 is a liquid product with some flexibility:
Its available in spray, roller and self leveling grades.
Thoroseal is a Cementitious product, similar to what is used inside pools:
 More information about the products and application is in the links above.

Subject: WATERPROOFING SEALANT FOR SWIMMING POOL
Q:  I am remodeling a pool for a client.  They have a upper pool that spills over into a lower pool and there is tile on both sides of the spill over wall. They have had a problem with moisture leaching through this wall and causing efflorescence (calcium deposits) on the lower tile wall.  I am looking for a waterproofing product that I can paint onto the back of the spillover wall which will prevent any moisture from seeping through.  I will have to put tile on top of the waterproofing product.  Do you have any product that will do this?  I am most concerned with making the tile stick and not pop off.
A: We have worked on pool repairs for resorts, where the tiles fell off (along the water line) due to water getting behind them.
Tile Repair: Lower water line to below the tiles. Remove remaining loose tiles. Scrap surface. Reset tiles using M1 structural sealant. Then grout the lines between tiles with M1, or waterproof grout. We used M1 white color for this by applying masking tape to grout areas, applying M1, tooling and removing tape. It was a very clean look.
Also, its most important to caulk the pool-wall to deck intersection. This is usually grouted and the grout crack quickly as its not flexible. Then water gets in behind and causes all kinds of damage  & corrosion. You can use M1 there or a textured sealant like TX1 in off white color or other matching grout color. M1 will last longer.
We also reset tiles at the bottom of a resort pool while it was filled. In this case, tiles were scraped, M1 applied then a person dived down and set tiles (wiggled them around to spread the sealant and work it against the surface. Moisture accelerates the cure of M1. A link to this product is here.
These sealants stick best to somewhat rough CEMENTITIOUS materials.  A glassy smooth tile surface has lower adhesion.
Regarding waterproofing of the backside of the wall, there are several materials. Both Cementitious, and asphalt based. Here are links to a couple
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=16581
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=15620

Subject: Sealing Gap Between Driveway and House
Q: I have a gap between my driveway and my house that is allowing water to penetrate my basement walls. The previous home owner used backer rod and a self leveling caulk. Unfortunately, I don't think the rod was big enough. I see you sell larger diameter rods. I would like to order some.
A: This gap is an expansion joint and is simple to waterproof.
The products designed for concrete expansion joint sealant are "Self Leveling Sealants". There are several types. I like the Novalink SL best, as it will seal joint up to 2" of width, is pre-tinted, single component and quick curing. Here is a link: http://www.bestmaterials.com/SearchResult.aspx?categoryid=1151
Before applying, you clean the joint, add backer rod, tape outside top edges if desired (to form a straight seal line along the top) and apply sealant. Remove tape as soon as materials start to set.
Here is a link to the backer rod: You should use CLOSED CELL type of backer rod. Select a size to be about 25% larger than the joint so it compresses well. Set backer rod to a depth of 1/2 the average width of the joint near the top.
http://www.bestmaterials.com/Backer_Rod.aspx
Joint cleaning can be done with wire brush or other power tools.
Amount of sealant depends on joint dimensions. Here is a guide: Estimating Guide .
Do a small test area first to practice your technique. Feel free to Email with any questions or problems.

Subject: Vertical Expansion Joints, Tilt-Wall Construction Sealant
Q: We are looking for the correct sealant and backer rod for a vertical control joint. We have had problems in the past with painting over sealants and backer rods. 
A: We re-did our own building a few years back (its about 25 years old, tilt-wall concrete). You call see it here (top and bottom of the page):
http://www.bestmaterials.com/contact.aspx
It had large irregular vertical expansion joints which had failed, and a LOT of expansion going on in the corner joints. We removed all old materials, set in Soft Backer Rod, and sealed corner joints with Sonolastic 150:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/SearchResult.aspx?CategoryID=1067
In the center joints we used NP1, which is less expensive: http://www.bestmaterials.com/SearchResult.aspx?CategoryID=1066
Following this we painted the building using ThoroCoat 200, with a factory tinted standard color: http://www.buildingsystems.basf.com/documents/tc2_tdg.pdf
The painted went over all the expansion joint sealants. We have had no cracking, peeling or other problems.

Subject: BUILDING UP SLOPE ON WOOD DECK
Q: Which product can I use to build up a slope and fill low areas on a wood deck before adding waterproofing layer?
A: To add some slope or fill low areas, you can use Super Putty. Its designed for filling ponding water areas. Its applied with a trowel in 1/4" layers, and built-up as needed. The base deck needs to be power washed, then dry. Primer may be needed, depending on surface. Following this, apply the Sonoguard Deck Coat system.
Super Putty:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=11647
Primers:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=15679
More Information on Deck Coating : wood based decks

Subject: RV roofing, recommended thickness of EPDM
Q: I have a travel trailer that needs the roof replaced. My question is what product is best for this application, the 45 mil. Or the 60 mil.?
A: The 60 mil is MUCH better than the 45 for trailers. Its more than 1/3 stronger, and the outside surface will outlast the 45 mil by many years. White 60 mil is best. Here is a link:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=15884
Samples of both can be now ordered here:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/SearchResult.aspx?KeyWords=EPDM%20sample

Subject: RV EPDM Roofing Replacement
Q: I need to replace my RV Roof. The horizontal roof surface is about 7' 10" X 19'. I think the EPDM
should be at least 9' X 21'. Penetrations include three 14"-squares (1 A/C, 2 vents), two 14"X16" rectangles (skylights), 3 antennas, square hot water vent, round plumbing vent.
A: We suggest you consider an order like this, then add some for errors and margin:
EPDM ROOFING: 10x21 feet.
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=15884
LC-60 ADHESIVE for an area of 150 Sq.ft, 3 Gallons:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=16077
New Butyl Rubber Sealant (goes under termination bar at perimeter:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=9591
or
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=16309
Penetrations: Its best to remove all these, then reinstall after putting the EPDM roofing down. It makes the application of the EPDM MUCH easier. Then, on the square items, such as A/C, you can apply a second layer of cover strip which overlaps the flange of the A/C unit and the new EPDM roofing:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=16016
ALSO apply cover strip along front edge, where EPDM meets roof line. Overlap the two to form a DOUBLE layer EPDM seam.
Apply primer before cover strip. do not apply primer where cover strip will not cover as it will discolor.
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=16490
Use M1 sealant for all the other penetrations and any detail areas. Also, apply a dab of sealant on screw threads when installing them and then over all exposed screw heads. I would buy 5-6 tubes. :
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=14959
Be sure all traces of any silicone sealants is removed and the surface is clean before applying M1. Silicone products will readily zip off most surfaces and be somewhat rubber band like. Get rib of all of them. Then use this cleaner where the silicone was:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=15748
Antennas and small pipes can also be permanently sealed well with these:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=16054
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=16164
Prior to applying EPDM membrane you may wish to reinforce any seams with Webseal:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=11850
MORE INFORMATION: This has some great photos
http://www.bestmaterials.com/PDF_Files/EPDM-Roof-Replacement.pdf

Subject: Sonoguard Coating products
Q: I was wondering if Sonoguard can be applied to a vertical surface. I'd like to apply it to the 8" side of my deck? 
A: You can apply Sonoguard by roller in coats to build up the layer thickness. I would try a 3/8" nap roller:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=10070
After cleaning and perhaps lightly sanding (like you were going to paint it), a light coat of primer would be good
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=11222
Properly, each deck post is flashed with metal which is nailed to both the post and the deck, then the metal is primed with the above primer. Then a layer of NP1 is applied and fiberglass web is embedded in it. This is applied in the area where the metal overlaps the deck surface.
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=17004
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=9698
More examples of details are here:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/PDF_Files/sgd_tdg.PDF

Subject: Enviroseal 40 Concrete/Masonry Silane Penetrating Sealer
Q: I have a new home that was just completed. During HEAVY wind-driven rains my brick chimney is allowing water to seep inside the house. I would prefer not to have to redo the flashing that my brick mason did not make extend completely through the mortar joints and then turn up (which seems to be the correct method) and after studying a little research I think your penetrating sealer will hopefully fix my problem. Is the 40% Silane the correct product to use for my application?
A: The Enviroseal is good to protect from moisture absorption in masonry from wind driven rains. The flashing may be functioning correctly, but the water is penetrating the masonry itself. The Enviroseal is designed for this. More information is here:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=16483
Here is a link to product data sheet if you did not see it:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/PDF_Files/e40_tdg.pdf
The Enviroseal 20 may also be suitable and is lower cost.
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=16699
TWO applications are best. The first will absorb in. The second will better close the surface.

Subject: Roof Leaks
Q: I've got roofing problems, lots of contractor advice and sealants that just don't make the grade. Request your input. Current Leaks:
1. Rainfall with steady drip from the top edge of every roof vent facing the West with winds general blowing West to East;
2. Coming down the HVAC exhaust pipe--suspect the flashing;
3. Inner wall/living room cathedral ceiling juncture leak--unknown source. HVAC tubing and a PVC pipe run above the water stained area and a vaulted 2/4 meets down to a cross beam. No signs of staining in attic; piping dry to the touch. blown and rolled insulation dry to the touch. Note: had sat up in the attic during a light rain; no signs of water and looked at surrounding area plywood and 2x4's for moisture and staining: none. No signs of water to be had.
Suggestions they've offered:
1. place diverters over vents;
2. Remove vents and replace by adding a less severe roof extension from the rooftop to allow for covered, horizontal ventilation;
3. re-wrap HVAC piping and piping sleeves;
4. Cover siding vents--they are 1'x2' horizontal slat vents with no screening or fan attachment;
Materiel used but does not resolve anything:
1. Standard silicone for roof shingling.
A: Of course its hard to solve unknown leak locations from afar. But it sound like the windblown rain is the cause -- likely coming through your vents. You also could have defective underlayment. The underlayment is the item which provides the waterproofing. It its perforated, this needs to be repaired. The tiles over the top are to provide UV and mechanical protection for the underlayment. Water will leak through tiles, and its the underlayment job to carry it away. Seams in underlayment may need to be sealed as well. Commonly, the underlayment curls up and dries out around the flashings and valleys, or is not sealed well against the flashings. This should be addressed. You may have to remove all the roof tiles, and replace the entire underlayment and reflash / reseal all the penetration areas. RoofSeal Black is a good underlayment repair / reflashing product.
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=11337
Dormer vent jacks are recommended for wind driven rain vents. They are applied under the vent, then the vent is applied over it:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=10439
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=9843
Silicones are not recommended in general roofing and waterproofing. They will not retain long term adhesion and will contaminate surface for other materials.

Subject: Expansion joint replacement
Q: I have an expansion joint 2-1/4 inches wide and about 50 ft long. I think I need 3" closed cell backer rod and Novalink SL. If I understand correctly the backer rod needs to be set at a depth of 1".
Not sure how much sealant is required?
A: In general, backer rod is set to a depth of 1/2 the width, but most sealants should not be cast thicker than 1/2 inch. So, you should set it to achieve about 1/2" depth.
Technical Data Sheet:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/m1-structural-sealant-1090.html
To order product and more info:-
http://www.bestmaterials.com/SearchResult.aspx?categoryid=1151
How much sealant? See our Estimating Guide.
Since you are about 2-1/4 x 1/2, you will use (dividing the 2-1/4 x 1/2 into two sizes):
1/2 x 1-1-4 = 1.4 ft / 10 oz tube = 50 ft /1.4 = 36 tubes
plus 1/4 x 1 = 6.4 / 2 (for 1/2 x 1) = 50 ft / 3.2 = 16 tubes
36 + 16 tubes = 52 tubes of 10 oz, which is 520 ounces total.
For 28 oz tubes you will need 520/28= 19 tubes, plus some extra for waste, and miscalculation.
We are not responsible for accuracy of calculations. The above is an example only.
Generally, its not recommended to fill the sealant all the way to the top surface edge. Just below this is best to keep tire rub out of the picture. Complete curing may take 2-3 days for this thick of section.

Subject: Rolling Tool for Dispensing Sealant
Q: I am looking for a stand-up rolling tool to dispense sealant for roadway work. What product would you recommend, along with bulk loaders.
A: Our largest ROLLING sealant application gun is the 720-G01, 2.5 quart. It is air powered. We special order these for customers.
Caulking Loaders: Here are some common ones:-

Subject: Best Product for Gray Grout / Mortar Joints
Q: I am looking for a product to seal and water proof gray mortar joints between stone veneer and between stone veneer and Millard Window frames. What product would you recommend.
A: We suggest TX1, textured sealant. Its available in popular colors, but the natural stone will be very close to natural limestone/gray cement colored grout:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=11775

Subject: AES-450 Custom Color Tinting
Q: Your sales literature says the above product is available in other colors then white by special order. How does one do that and what is the extra charge if any?
A: For AES-140, AES-100 and AES-125 pre-tinted white or gray are available as standard.
 But you can have the white tinted by any Sherwin Williams paint center to most lighter tint colors. You cannot tint to Dark with this base. Have them use EPOXY grade tints.

Subject: Driving Rain and Chimney Leaks
Q: We have a brick chimney which leaks during driving rains. What clear product is available to seal it?
A: Driving rain on vertical stone walls and chimneys are commonly sealed with Enviroseal 20 (2-coats):
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=16699
You can also re-flash the chimney to roof area with metal faced flashing tape. One like this:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=16773

Subject: EPDM Roof Replacement over old roof
Q: Can you install a new white rubber roof over an old rubber roof or do you have to take the old roof off first?
A: Yes, its possible to install new over old. The key thing to assure before doing this is that the adhesion of the old roof is very good. Repair as needed.
Installation of new EPDM membrane: 1. Clean AND prime the old EPDM roof membrane. Use EPDM primer only: http://www.bestmaterials.com/SearchResult.aspx?KeyWords=multipurpose%20primer
 2. Use EPDM adhesive only:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/SearchResult.aspx?KeyWords=lc-60
or
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=16013
3. We recommend reinforcing with a secondary EPDM coverstrip tape on all new seams and edge areas.
http://www.bestmaterials.com/SearchResult.aspx?KeyWords=coverstrip

Subject: Waterproofing System For Parking Garages
Q: We own a large property with a underground parking garage that has a parking lot covering the top level. The upper level is 35+ years old and we are planning to remove and redesign the entire Parking lot. We plan on taking the top layer off to the Garage concrete deck. We would like to cover the concrete (garage roof section) with a waterproofing material before replacing the Parking lot. Can you suggest the proper material and procedure for this project?
A: This is a popular waterproof, vehicular traffic grade waterproofing and deck coating: http://www.bestmaterials.com/PDF_Files/sgd_tdg.PDF
Follow, page 4, HEAVY-DUTY TRAFFIC SYSTEM for the top and EXTRA-HEAVY DUTY SYSTEM for the turning areas, such as ramps. Product details are here:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=14930
We can consult with you about the preparation details and dealing with any cracks.
FYI, Concrete Repair Items are here. There is a nice link to a parking garage repair article:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/Concrete-Repair.aspx
http://www.bestmaterials.com/Concrete-Repair.aspx#PARKING

Subject: Rubber Roof Coating
Q: What is the difference between the AES-100FR coating and the AES-125FR coating,. I am looking for the best coating to put on my RV rubber roof that is already there.
A: The AES-100FR, is a product which has flame retardant which will be active during the liquid stage. AES-125 is the same product without the extra flame retardant, and its less expensive.
BOTH products are equally flame retarded in the fully CURED stage.
RV Rubber Roof coating: This is a great product for this coating. When coating EPDM roofs we have found priming is needed with ALL coatings. Use EPDM primer: http://www.bestmaterials.com/SearchResult.aspx?KeyWords=multipurpose%20primer
The AES products are epoxy based. They are very durable. The bright white will turn somewhat off-white after a period but stay dirt pick-up resistant (dirt washes off easy). We find other coatings have problems with chalking, running, wear-out from UV, collecting dirt and other problems.
2 coats of AES is best for getting even coverage. Less expensive but still very good is the Roofmate HT. It is a high tensile version. Its an acrylic and will chalk somewhat long-term.
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=16573
Before coating, repair any seams. Use Eternabond RoofSeal or Webseal.
http://www.bestmaterials.com/Eternabond.aspx

Subject: EPDM roofing material and quantity estimation
Q: I  want to get some pricing for an EPDM roofing "kit" for a 75 x 55 square ft roof. 
A: This materials estimator will help you figure out your exact quantities: Estimating Calculator
From that estimate, add whatever surplus you think you need and we can quote it and the freight, or you can add these items to the shopping cart here, and freight costs can be calculated during the checkout (UPS LTL FREIGHT option).
http://www.bestmaterials.com/EPDM-Roofing.aspx
and
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=16226
View the bottom of the above link for related accessories.

Subject: Solar Panel Mounting on a Metal Roof
Q: I want to install solar collectors on a traditional metal roof. I need to make 2 penetrations through the roof for the water lines- one 3/4" copper and 1 1/2" copper. I am quite confused by the variety of products you offer. I want best quality/longest life materials since I never want to fool with this again!
A: We recommend silicone flashing boots. You have two options for each pipe size, depending on your access to installing them (new or retrofit type installation):
3/4" pipes:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=15001
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=16155
1-1/2" pipes:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=16555
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=16155
(the above is the same as used in the 3/4" pipe. I would probable choose the 16155 item.

Subject: Slate Pool Deck Coating
Q: Do you have a product that would work as a clear coat over slate next to a pool? If so would there be a non slip additive for it?
A: Around the pool there is of course a lot of water, and its absorbed by the surrounding materials. It then needs to evaporate out. When you apply a gloss coating (almost any kind), it can trap the moisture resulting in milky appearance in the coating. (this is a particular  problem with flagstone materials). Slate is more dense, but we still cannot endorse this application.  There are NON-glossy, breathable coatings which help with stain resistance. Here are some to consider:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/SearchResult.aspx?CategoryID=1064
Always test your application.

Subject: polyester fabric types
Q: Which of your products is woven polyester fabric? Could you tell me the spec of it? D you also have non-woven fabric?
A: We have both woven and spun bond polyester fabrics. If you click on the links below you can see sizes. Click on that and it will show detail page. Detail page has specification or a link to data sheet (depending on the product).
 Firm Face Polyesters, T326, Tietex
 Soft Face Polyester Fabrics, T272, Tietex
  Spun-Bond Polyester Fabrics

Subject: Dirt Resistant Caulking / Sealant

Q: I need to know if there is a caulk that will work for the windows and brick pockets that will not attract dirt and turn an ugly brown in our dusty West Texas climate. Everything I have ever used that I bought locally becomes dirty and brown as the dust is drawn to it and adheres unless there is at least two coats of paint covering the caulk soon after application, which is not an option in this application. The caulk I am hoping to find will close gaps between an off white brick to white metal at the windows and white painted wood brick pockets to a tan colored brick.

A: We have tested MANY sealants for long term performance. We like to see how they behave, regardless of the manufacturers claims. Definitely, all will collect some degree of dirt and water spots, like windows and areas at the bottom of them. The question is how easily do they clean up, say with the squirt of a hose.

Our experience is that most common sealants, including polyurethane and polyether, all look bad after a couple years and, like windows, do not clean easily up without a good scrub and some soapy cleaner (the hose by itself does not work). Also, many window cleaners will deteriorate the bond of the sealant unless cleaners are washed away from the joint areas.

The best performer we have seen is a specialty high temperature silicone sealant. It attracts a LOT less dirt, and cleans up nicely with a high pressure hose wash. I think the silicone aspect of the chemistry resists dirt / cleans up better. As this particular product is REALLY good. Its different than most silicones in that its very strong (takes abrasive / scrubbing well), and has better adhesion chemistry -- it will stick to most everything VERY well. Here is a link to more information about this product: http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=16896

The negative to silicone, is that PAINT does not like to STAY stuck to it. It looks adhered at first, but later, paints will come off. So, its important to pick a PRETINTED color silicone sealant.


Subject: 6 AND 8" T-TOP ROOF VENTS APPLICATIONS
Q: What is the height of the vents? Do they fit pitched 4/12 roofs?
A: We have updated this product description to show the height (7-8 inches) and the application (to 4/112 pitch):
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=9885
There is also a screened top option.

Subject: Eternabond Installation Temperature
Q: What is the installation temperature range of Eternabond Products?
A: Eternabond can be installed down to 40F without any special preparation. Between -20F and +40F, the addition of EternaPrime primer is recommended. http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=11025
Here is a link to cold weather repair video using EternaPrime and Eternabond: Cold Weather Repair
Cold Weather Repair

Subject: Leaking Pitched Shingled Roof with Solar Panel
Q: I have an application where solar panels are mounted to a sloped shingle roof. The panel legs are fastened directly over the roof shingles. It is at these locations that leaks occur as a result of the fasteners penetrating the shingles and past inferior patching efforts. Do you offer a Retrofit pipe flashing boot that will work with asphalt shingles?
A: Unfortunately, its common. Properly, the Z clip should have had a LONG foot which went under / between the shingles, and was attached, with a shingle covering it. We have several options for you. If you can kindly take a photo and send to us, we can better recommend the solutions (we need dimensions of the item).
There are several options. Briefly- 1. Remove screw / z clip and apply doublestick sealant under the Z where it contacts the asphalt shingle. Apply a bead of M1 sealant to screw shank and reattached. Use ROOFING screws (with seal washers) if they are not already used. Then run a bead of M1 around the screw for exta insurance. Materials: http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=10440
http://www.bestmaterials.com/m1-structural-sealant-1090.html
http://www.bestmaterials.com/stainless-steel-metal-screws-washers-539.html
or http://www.bestmaterials.com/SearchResult.aspx?KeyWords=evergrip
2. Skip the first step above, applying M1 sealant all around the perimeter of the Z clip. Do all the rest.
3. Use a closed boot and cut a slit for the Z clip. Remove Z clip, slip boot over. Follow #1 above, then finally attach boot over everything. If this will work depends on the dimensions of the Z clip and surrounding items.
Where pipes or wires run through the roof, use the Retrofit boots and M1 or silicone sealant: http://www.bestmaterials.com/retrofit_pipe_flashing_boots.aspx

Subject: Roof Ventilator Mounting on a Metal Roof
Q: How do roof ventilator heads mount on a metal building roof with ribbed roof panels? Do you sell the mountings and are they shaped to conform with with the bends in the roof panel.
A: This installation can be accomplished by either attached a flashing base to the roof, and sealing both to the underlayment, and to the metals panels, then attaching head.
OR building a curb base, sealing curb base to underlayment and metal roof system, and attached head. You would do something similar, flashing to the underlayment and again to the metal roof panels.
 Alternatively, in a retrofit, you could cut the hold, attach base with sealant and roofing screws, then apply a flashing system over this. This could be a secondary EPDM Rubber boot like one of these:
 Or you could apply flashing tape, such as this (which can be used if sealing base to the underlayment as well:
 In general, you want to create a dual-seal system.
 You may wish to consider the solar fans, so that you have less penetrations / installations to do. You may save a lot in installation, paying for the cost of the better ventilation. These are nice:
 AV-18 Items are here:
AV-24 are here:
 Do not forget to create good AIR INTAKE for the exhaust fans.

Subject: Basement Waterproofing in new construction
Q: I am looking to purchase a waterproofing system for custom home I am building in the Spring.   What products would you recommend for a 10' tall Insulated Concrete Form wall.  I was thinking of a waterproof membrane rolled down vertically, with a drain mat on top of that, and two drains outside of that.
A: We suggest to consider these items for that approach:
 Be sure and waterproof all the way down and over the footing, and caulk joints first with a good sealant. Novalink is compatible with the HLM5000 materials:
 Drains: a perforated french drain buried in drainage rock etc., along the footing area is good practive.
 Other good practices are grading the top soil away from the house and good drainage away from the house of gutters and downspouts.

Subject: EPDM Cold Weather Repair
Q: I'm a contractor who has been asked to fix a loose "seam" where the EPDM has been stretched over the end of the roof on to a masonry ledge (block wall ... block cap) overlapping the ledge (used as drip edge - at the edge of the roof it does a 90 down approx. 3"). The inside would be the masonry and the outside would be the EPDM. The approx. outside working temp will range from 20 to 30 degrees. What repair do you recommend?
A: We suggest 2" wide Eternabond DOUBLESTICK together with EternaPrime for this cold weather EPDM seam repair. Here are links to more information about these items and application:
 Cold Weather Repair Video:

Subject: Cold room caulking for concrete floor cuts
Q: Please send a suggestion for caulking for a cold room condition with temperature of 34 to 36 degrees Fahrenheit. We have saw cuts 1/8" wide and ¾" deep in the concrete floor and the walls are pre finished panels with premium ceramic, polyester coating. We have forklift traffic in this area. The materials will be applied during construction phase (not cold).
A: For sealing and protecting saw cut concrete joints from traffic damage, two products are commonly used:
Epolith: Data Sheet: http://www.bestmaterials.com/PDF_Files/epg_tdg.pdf
About $112 / gallon, has 75% elongation, 655 psi tensile, 85 shore A hardness and is a 2-part epoxy, formulated for filling saw-cut joints in concrete floors. Provides a puncture and abrasion resistant seal.
TF-100: Data Sheet: http://www.bestmaterials.com/PDF_Files/scj_tdg.pdf
About $427 / gallon, has 470% elongation, 1975 psi tensile, 85-90 shore A hardness and is a 2-component polyurea, formulated for filling saw-cut joints in concrete floors. Provides a high load seal to resist forklift and hard wheel traffic. Also works well to fill random cracks.
TF-100 is much more expensive (50%), and requires a special 2-part mixing caulk gun.
Carefully read the product data sheets to study application.
Alternatively you could use an expansion joint filler, but this is not designed to protect saw cuts from hard wheeled traffic. http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=16205

Subject: Deck repair for ponding water problem.
Q: I have a large plywood deck over living space that is finished with a urethane deck system. Over time there has been some settlement creating a minor pond area. Can I use the Sonoguard Self Leveling Base material to fill this area, and then apply a new urethane coating to the whole deck? Also, over time some small shallow dents have appeared, approximately 1/4" dia. X 8/8" deep. What caulk or filler do I use prior to re-coating the deck.
A: You are on the right track in looking at fixing the ponding water problem. The cause of the settlement of your deck should be carefully investigated (rotted wood/ inadequate support structure or ?). Also, the root cause of cracks should be looked into. These are generally, framing related or incorrectly built decking (nailed not screwed, no use of tongue-groove plywood, use of particle board rather than exterior grade plywood, etc). Generally, cracked seams are ground down to expose the wood, screws added in the needed areas, then reinforced with glass mesh embedded in a base coat stripe. We cannot help you with these structural issues.
Ponding water areas can be filled with these materials:
for thicker sections: http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=10685
Applied in build-up layers (easier to use) http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=11647
Cracked Seams are repaired with these materials: Bridge all deep field cracks, joints and flashing areas by apply 4" white fiberglass 20x20 mesh tape embedded in Sonoguard basecoat or NP1 sealant. Use a 3-course process to hide seams. This is much like taping a drywall joint wherein you taper joint to adjacent surfaces. Sonoguard basecoat: http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=14930
NP1 Product Info
Fiberglass Webbing Info
You can use the NP1 as a filler for the small dents prior to basecoat. Sonoguard system (base and topcoat both needed): http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=14930 Note: ALL traces of silicone sealants must be removed before doing any work. Then follow the general procedures for wood based decks: http://www.bestmaterials.com/deck_coatings.aspx#Wood%20Based%20Deck%20Repairs

Subject: AC roof penetrations retro fit
Q: The “AC FLASHING BOOT SYSTEM, 3-PIPE, ROUND BASE” page http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=16331 mentions the availability of other top seal options. I will be adding new seals to an installation where the owner, in a burst of DIY enthusiasm, ran gas lines for four AC units through a "tar pot" on a flat roof. Since he left the tube insulation in place and didn’t bother with drip loops or a weather shield of any kind, he created a very nice funnel with which to decorate interior ceilings and walls. The lines come in from three directions and have very little slack for repositioning. The electrical feeds are all in EMT and don’t seem to be a problem as yet but will be under a new cover with seals to make sure that the “funnel” will not develop another water source. What top seal configurations are available for pipe/tubing and are they available for purchase without a base?
A: You may wish to consider CHEMCURBS. These are round dams which are filled with sealant to seal around multiple pipes or irregular shapes. One like this: http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=16749  Here are some more options: http://www.bestmaterials.com/SearchResult.aspx?CategoryID=749 and http://www.bestmaterials.com/searchresult.aspx?categoryid=1170

Subject: Very Large Size Retrofit Pipe Flashing Boots
Q: I would like to get more information on the retrofit pipe flashing boots. We are looking for an outside application for piping from 2" up to 24" diameter. Is this something that you carry or can be manufactured?
A: For pipes from 1/8 to 16-1/4 inch in diameter, you use a regular retrofit pipe flashing boot: http://www.bestmaterials.com/retrofit_pipe_flashing_boots.aspx
For larger pipes, you take two boots, cut them up the side. Then apply each boot, with the second one overlapping the first like two inverted C's. Use high-temp/high strength silicone sealant to seal the gap and the two boots together. For 24" pipes, you use two of these: http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=14996

Subject: Butyl tape for seams on galvalume steel buildings
Q: I am building some steel span buildings and would like to get some butyl tape. What do you recommend (I saw the mb10 a type would be good).
A:  The Butyl tape we sell is the most popular product for sealing seams in metal building roofs. This size is mostly used: http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=8984
Other popular metal roofing items include:
Roofing screws with sealing washers:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/sheet-metal-screws-sealing-washers-545.html
http://www.bestmaterials.com/SearchResult.aspx?CategoryID=843
Pipe Flashings:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/masterflash_sizes_and_materials.aspx

Subject: roof jack gas pipe venting question please
Q: I am re-roofing a shed with a 5" gas vent pipe coming through the roof, and using corrugated steel panels. My vent collar is a flat metal piece attached to the pipe. I need something that will make a seal / transition to the corrugated roofing.
A: To seal this area, you use a High Temperature Silicone Boot. Carefully measure your pipe diameter. Pick the boot which has this size as the minimum.
Like this one: http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=15602
Of course, your pipe needs to be mounted to provide clearance, as per manufacturers recommendations. Here is a link to additional information on hot pipe / gas venting installation: Hot Pipe - Gas Pipe Venting

Subject: Pipe Boot for Firestone TPO Membrane
Q: Do you guys sell a pipe boot that will adhere to a 045 Firestone TPO membrane?
A: Commonly our EPDM pipe boots are used, and sealed with M-1 sealant which is applied over a surface primed with TPO Primer. Here are links to these items:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/m1-structural-sealant-1090.html
Datasheet: http://www.bestmaterials.com/PDF_Files/m1-sealant.pdf
Pipe flashings: http://www.bestmaterials.com/masterflash_sizes_and_materials.aspx
Pipe Flashing Boots in WHITE: http://www.bestmaterials.com/SearchResult.aspx?categoryid=1175
We also have prefabricated TPO weldable boots as well, if interested let us know which ones and how many and we can get a quote for you.
http://www.flashcomfg.com/downloads/singleply-all.pdf

Subject: LOOKING TO FIREPROOF ROOF
Q: I have a 5,000 sq ft flat tar roof. I would like to find a fire proof material to lay on top which will waterproof and protect or slow down fire, as much as possible. Do you have or can you recommend such material?
A: This product has a UL fire rating:
Apply this over a fire resistant sheet / slipsheet
On top of the final coating you could apply a loose layer of roofing granules for further protection:

Subject: Tilt Wall Caulk Recommendation
Q: What would I use to re-caulk expansion joints on a concrete tilt wall construction?
A: We used NP1 and Sonolastic 150 on our building when we repainted it a few years back: http://www.bestmaterials.com/contact.aspx
The Sonolastic 150 was used in the corner joints (which have a lot of movement), and NP1 in the others. We installed it over new soft or closed cell backer rod. We also used the NP1 to patch minor cracks in the walls. Here is a link to these items http://www.bestmaterials.com/Backer_Rod.aspx
http://www.bestmaterials.com/SearchResult.aspx?CategoryID=1066
http://www.bestmaterials.com/SearchResult.aspx?CategoryID=1067

Subject: Backer rod/sealant for sloped surfaces
Q: We are going to be using closed cell backer rod to fill an expansion joint. We want to use the self-leveling sealant, but I was wondering if this will work if placed on a slope. The expansion joint is sloped at 6-1, so I want to make sure we can use the self-leveling sealant at this slope.
A: The self leveling product will definitely have a problem. BASF also offers SL1 in a SLOPE GRADE. But even the 6:1 slope grade is too much for this slope. I suggest you consider regular Novalink which will cure pretty quick and give you the same properties.  http://www.bestmaterials.com/SearchResult.aspx?categoryid=1158

Subject: EPDM tape adhesion to wood
Q: WILL WHITE EPDM COVERSTRIP TAPE, 6 INCH WIDE (per foot)
EPDM-309813-1 adhere to wood?
A: Yes, this will stick very well to wood (dry wood).

Subject: RE: RV Roof--Aluminum
Q: The roof is an RV metal roof--there is foot traffic for maintenance purposes. It is a very old RV and there are low places on the roof where water tends to pool. The seams are crimped channel with lap sealant and a thick fibrous tape like overlay from what I can tell. There are other roof penetrations with either screws or rivets and a fairly thick sealant over that. I cannot tell what type of product is on there now--I have removed all the loose product and scrubbed the surface with a mild water and greased lightening product (soapy degreaser) and rinsed it as best I could without saturating the roof. It has leaked in the past and I am sure still will until a good topping is put over the entire roof with special attention to the seams and penetrations.
A: We recommend you review this metal roof guide. It will give you a good general sense of what to do:
Before coating, seal any cracked areas with a good sealant such as M1:
RoofMate Coating can be found here:

Subject: Driveway Expansion Joints product inquiry
Q: I am looking for a product to fill the expansion joints on my driveway. The gaps are approximately 3/4" wide, tapering narrower at the bottom. Approximate depth up to 3/4". I would like something that is self-leveling if possible. I have about 400 lineal feet to fill. Can you recommend one of your products? I had a recommendation to use Sonneborn SL1. I saw the SL1 in 28 oz caulk tube, or 2 gallon pail. How would I apply it if I went with the pail? - From the information on your website, it looks like I would need a backer rod. Which one would be the best to use?
A: We suggest the 28 oz. tubes. They are MUCH easier to dispense.  We also suggest Novalink SL, because it cures quickly, and handles joints up to 2" wide.
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=16205
Apply with this tool: http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=14785
If you choose a pail, you can apply with a squeeze bottle.
Quantity: Each 28 oz tube will yield about 16 feet of 3/4 wide x 3/8 deep joint area. So you will need 25 tubes, plus a few extra.  Closed Cell backer rod would be best for a ground application:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/Backer_Rod.aspx

Subject: water proofing an existing basement with bad walls
Q: I live in a house that was built in 1950's and it has poorly mixed concrete foundation. I've done the dry lock thing but water finds other areas to come in . I drilled where the cracks are and some times it's only 4" I hit dirt outside so then I put the stop leak concrete in it .Do you a product for my problem before i dig up out side and tackle it .
A: We suggest you consider Thoroseal cementitious waterproofing

Subject: Waterproofing an Existing Basement
Q: I have a old house on a stone walled basement. It has mortar between it joints. Houses was expanded on may years back with a block. I have just dug up around house and am installing a drywell system. I would like to seal the walls to keep moisture out, if possible.
A:
Here is some information on basement waterproofing:
Waterproofing an existing basement is a complex project with many options. Since we can't be there to see first hand the leak areas, construction, hill terrain, soil, exterior landscape and exterior drainage systems, we can only provide generalized answers. Also, budget, skills of repair person, how permanent of a fix you want, odor during repairs and interior decorating issues affects the options.
First, there is no permanent 100% waterproof system which can be applied from the inside. The problem in some cases is that the concrete is a sponge, absorbs water and causes corrosion of the reinforcement bars and steel. This is turn results in fracture and decomposition of the concrete and long term failure. The prevention is to dig around the outside down to the foundation footing and apply waterproof layers and joint sealants to the outside, preventing the water from getting into the concrete and joints. The floor is more difficult. It must be torn up, have waterproofing membranes laid down, then re-poured on top of this. All of which is WAY too expensive in most cases.
 
What can be done to greatly extend the life of and existing basement, and get rid of the water and moisture?
 
EXTERIOR:
PHASE 1:
1. Trench against the wall down to the footing. Lay a French drain in gravel, cover top with silt screen.
2. Apply sealant to the foundation to wall interface as needed.
3. Apply a waterproof coating to both the footing and foundation wall. A product like HLM 5000:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=15620
or a cementitious coating:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/SearchResult.aspx?categoryid=1197

All shrinkage and non-moving structural cracks under 1/16" shall be primed then pretreated with not less than a 30 wet mil coating of HLM 5000
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=15620
extending 3" on either side of the crack. Bridge the joints, cracks, and flashing's with 4" (10 cm) Straight Jacket Tape, pushing it into HLM 5000 with a trowel. Over the reinforcement tape apply a stripe coat of HLM 5000 and smooth onto adjacent surface. All cracks over 1/16", moving structural cracks and cold joints, shall be routed to 1/4" wide by 1/4" deep, the area should be primed, a joint backing shall be inserted and the void sealed with an appropriate polyurethane sealant.

ALTERNATIVELY use a product such as THOROSEAL cementitious waterproofing.
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=16580
4. Apply a drainage board against the wall.
http://www.bestmaterials.com/waterproofing-membrane-protection-board-610.html
5. Backfill so as not to disturb or puncture the waterproofing.
6. Apply roof gutters to the house. Then have the downspouts connect to drain pipes which take the water well away from the house, and below the foundation grade.

PHASE 2 (Optional)
1. Grade the soil outside the high sides of the house to slope away from the house at least 20 feet.

2. Option: Bury a heavy duty waterproofing membrane at least 10 feet wide, down in the topsoil of the graded area. Attached and seal the waterproofing membrane to the foundation of the house up above the top of the soil line.
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=16516

3. Option: Along the newly graded slope area, at the end of the membrane, bury perforated drain pipe covered with stainless screen into a 1 foot wide x 2 foot deep rock/gravel trench. The "French drain" pipe will collect much of the water and drain it away from the house.
4. Option: Refill soil area with CLAY soil, which is not so water absorbent.
The above actions will get rid of MUCH of the water, but not all. Depending on the soil, rain, water table and melting snow, the soil can still become saturated, and these actions may be less effective. But in many situations, this works quite well.
 
INTERIOR:
1. Strip down the basement walls and floors. Remove all existing sealants and caulks.
2. Power wash surfaces, if needed.
3. Allow to thoroughly dry (use fans and such as needed). This could take a couple weeks.
4. If coating requires, Prime all concrete surfaces joints and cracks using penetrating waterproofing primer, such as:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=9358
or
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=15025
5. Repair all cracks and decomposed concrete. Cracks can be filled/waterproofed with low pressure polyurethane foam injection or epoxy injection products. See Concrete Crack Repair Products.

A good waterproof repair mortars are EMACO GP or Water Plug for larger areas.

6. Apply a negative side waterproofing product such as THOROSEAL cementitious waterproofing.
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=16580
or http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=16582
7. Use proper SEALANT on the joints and cracks:
Floor joints:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=11161
Wall, Corner Joints and cracks:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=15150
8. Install adequate permanent basement ventilation, if it does not already exist.


RE: wood deck coating / waterproofing
Q: I have an outdoor wood deck and was wondering what product you recommend for long wear. We live in NY, so it is a cold climate and we have dogs that regularly are on the deck. The deck is not new. Another web site recommended Rhino Top.
A: For wood deck which is over living space, Rhino Top is not recommended as it is not a waterproofing product (although it has great wear characteristics). Polyurethane deck finishes are the toughest waterproofing deck coatings on the market (variation of spray on truck bed liners). For first time applicators, the Sonoguard system is the easiest:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=14930
 Follow this general outline for waterproofing most wood decks:
wood based decks

RE: Concrete Expansion Joint Sealing / Repair Question
Q: I am a homeowner and find your website very helpful (much more helpful than anybody in the the home centers in my area!), and I think you carry the products I need but I want to run it by you first before ordering.  I have some areas of the house where a horizontal piece of concrete meets a vertical piece of concrete (ex. concrete walkway that butts up against the concrete foundation or a concrete step).  This joint has a gap, ranging in size from 1/4" to 1-1/8". This sealant is crumbling away and is no longer doing it's job; plus it looks bad. What do I need to repair this?  I believe I need to remove the old sealant and stuff the joint with backer rod, and then use some sort of sealant on top of that.  I obviously want to seal the crack to prevent further damage, but I also desire a nice, clean, smooth look when I'm done
A: The concrete joints you have are treated as EXPANSION JOINTS. You are on the right track for the waterproofing of this (backer rod + sealant). The 100 % horizontal joints are filled with backer rod, then self leveling sealant is applied over it. The vertical / corner joints are filled with backer rod then caulked with vertical grade sealant and tooled to finish the joint nicely. Since most of yours are vertical / corner types, I would recommend you consider this product for all the areas: http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=16221
The best backer rod for your application is CLOSED CELL. Pick a size 25 to 50 % greater than the gap. http://www.bestmaterials.com/Backer_Rod.aspx

RE: Ponding Water
Q: I have a 8 year old EPDM roof that does have ponded water. I would like to use your Formflex 6000 roof coating. The other problem I have is that the roof leaks in the Winter if I have Ice coating with Snow on top. Your suggestions.
A: The root CAUSE of the ponding water area needs to be considered first. Possible causes: roof leak resulting in bowed substrates, insulation, decking, or framing; other structural problems; settling of building; or excessive snow load causing bowing and accumulation of water during the snow load. If you let us know what you suspect the causes are, how deep and the size of the ponding areas, we can advise further. I would call out a roofer to give you a repair estimate and see what they have to say. As to coatings, you should also consider the ROOFMATE HT as a topcoat. Its more durable. Use a primer on the EPDM first. http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=16573
EPDM PRIMER: http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=16014
SEAM REPAIRS: Use either Eternabond tape, or primer + EPDM Cover Tape: http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=11341
or this with primer (its more durable than the Eternabond): http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=16016

RE: Rhino Top Coating for Pool Deck
Q: I am looking to re-coat my existing cool deck in a new color. Does the entire deck area need to be primed with the Uni-Tile Sealer first? Do you sell a product that would simulate the texture (knock down) of the existing cool deck. I added two patio areas recently that are bare concrete.
A: Priming is recommended for all areas to be coated. It is the key to great long-term adhesion.
The textured Rhino-Top, if applied over all areas (existing knock-down cool deck AND bare concrete), will have a somewhat uniform look, but not exact. We have a test area done outside our warehouse you can look at to see what its like. Most colors are shipped by the factory for each order. Standard colors are quick to get. Custom colors take several days. More info is here:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=15024

RE: Pipe Flashing for Solar Panels
Q: I am mounting solar panels on a regular asphalt shingle roof with a pitch of 5/12. I am using standard 3/4" i.d. copper tubing. I need a flashing that will stand temperatures of 220 degrees F on a regular basis, with the possibility of temperatures up to 300 once in a while. What do you recommend? How much is it? And how do I get it?
A: There are two options for you, depending on when / how you wish to install.
Number 1 is the best:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=16616
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=15001
If you need a retrofit type, then these are the options: http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=16151
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=14993
Sealants: A generous bead of M1 sealant is also advisable.

RE: Deck Re-Coating Project
Q: I would like to try your product on a clients deck, there is an existing deck coating however, it appears as though the last contractor attempted to put a thin layer of color over an intact membrane but the thin layer has failed. My questions are, 1.) should we remove the entire thin layer before introducing your product? 2.)We will be pressure washing (3000 PSI.) to remove all loose and peeling substances. If we need to remove all of it, how would you recommend we do this to avoid damaging the membrane underneath? and 3.) Will we need the self leveling base coat over the entire deck surface?
A: I believe you are referring to our polyurethane type walk-deck waterproofing / coating systems.
To recoat an existing deck with another polyurethane type system (NOT ASPHALTIC) you generally do this (assuming the base system does not leak and has no cracks):
1. Powerwash with a HIGH PRESSURE washer to remove old coating & allow to dry. The integrity of a new coating will only be as good as the foundation, so it needs to be sound. 2. Prime. 3. Coat using one to two coats of topcoat as per specification.
Two popular systems for this are:
SONOGUARD:
primer:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=15551
topcoats:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/SearchResult.aspx?KeyWords=sg-topcoat
POLYCOAT:
primer http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=9358
 Topcoat:
(tan shown) http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=11676

RE: Gable vent dimensions
Q: I am looking for a gable vent to fit a 18.25 x 18.25 rough opening . Is the 18 x18 vent plus the flange or 18 x18 overall?
A: For an 18x18 Standard Mount gable vent, such as this one:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=9312
The key dimensions of our gable vents are:
Overall outside face to face: 19 x 19 inches
Opening needed in wall: 18 x 18 (nominal rough opening)
Inside Recess / Louver Area width: 17.5 x 17.5 inches
Distance from Outside Flange Edge to Recess/Louver area: 3/4 inch all around
Flange Outer Face Width: 1.5 inch

RE: Basement Wall Waterproofing
Q: We are looking for a product that will provide waterproofing on the interior of a below grade stone wall? See the attached photos showing discoloration of a stone where a small amount of water is penetrating an existing wall on the campus of the University of M.
A: We reviewed your application with the tech people from BASF, and they suggest the following:
1. Remove all furring strips from the wall.
2. Power wash, let dry.
3. Apply two coats of ThoroSeal with Acryl 60 additive, as per instructions.
Here are links to these items and data sheets:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=15871
 http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=15182
 http://www.bestmaterials.com/PDF_files/ac6_tdg.pdf
 http://www.bestmaterials.com/PDF_files/tsl_tdg.pdf
This should provide the negative side waterproofing you are seeking.

RE: Elastomeric Plus RhinoTop.
Q: Could I seal the cracks as you have instructed at http://www.bestmaterials.com/deck_coatings.aspx but instead of Sonoguard use Rhinotop to cover. I understand that Rhinotop does not waterproof the surface but if it will make the surface somewhat water resistant and permit walking then it should work fine. You see, though this is a roof deck, it is sloped and since 1984 when it was built it has never been sealed with anything. However, due to acid rain or just plain weathering it has some pocks and cracks in which, on really wet periods, eg. hurricanes, tropical storms etc...we will get a drop or two of water seeping through discoloring the ceiling of the upstairs.
A: This set of applications for waterproofing a concrete roof. It uses RoofMate Elastomeric coating, followed by Rhino-Top for traffic areas. The spec is very comprehensive. United Coatings does good work in this area and RhinoTop is excellent product: http://www.bestmaterials.com/PDF_Files/RoofMate-concrete.pdf
See page 4, section H.= "To provide a non-skid walk path on roofs subject to heavy foot traffic, demarcate walkways by applying an additional coat of ROOF MATE, using a medium-nap roller or airless spray, at the rate of 1 gallon per 100 sq. ft. (.4 l/m²) along the designated traffic area. While the coating is still wet, broadcast 3M #11 ceramic roofing granules to the point of refusal. UNITED COATINGS' Rhino Top, a non-skid colored acrylic topping.
The RoofMate and RhinoTop will be a lot less expensive than a Sonoguard coating. RoofMate Elastomeric coating is here: http://www.bestmaterials.com/elastomeric-roof-coatings-855.html

RE: Gas vs Electric Hot Air Welders
Q: How does Hot Air Welder such Sievert TH1650 Or Leister Varimat compare to the PNS-4 with the #3334 hot air tip for heat output? One is rated degrees, CFM, watts; the other in BTU.
I am familiar with electric heat guns and have used many over the years. I would like to know what to expect from a propane unit. What is the temperature at the nozzle of the propane unit?
A: We checked with tech support at Sievert. They provided the following information:  The propane hot air kit (PNS-4) uses the 3334-90 Promatic Hot Air burner. The heat temperature at the nozzle is 1,200 degrees Fahrenheit. The BTU reference on the burners really refers to the amount of propane consumed. The TH-1650 will produce temperatures between 70 - 1,100 degrees Fahrenheit.
What can you expect with the propane unit?
1) The electric hot air gun has a variable speed fan. The propane burner will not have as much air flow but will be constant, and more stable.
2) The electric hot air guns need time to get up to temp, and a cool down period to protect the heating elements. The propane unit has instant heat, and will not need a cool down period, as you can start & stop at will.
3) The PNS-4 Kit is much more portable, and of course does not need electricity.
FYI, here is a link to types of propane torches available:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/propane-torche-870.html

RE: Repair of Terra Cotta Roof Tiles
Q: I am restoring a historic building with a facade of terra cotta. Many pieces are damaged and need to be reassembled using a very strong but hopefully flexible adhesive. We were thinking that a strong adhesive long life urethane caulk like Vulkam or Sonneborn might work. Do you have any recommendations?
A: We have tested several products for this application. We can recommend these two:
Np1- Redwood Tan Color http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=10994
Color Link (actual color will fade a bit, and as a repair item, will look VERY natural. http://www.colorcharts.org/ccorg/resources/colors.aspx?companyid=124549&lineid=635&cbn=TY09-DWMK-TUB9
Novalink - Terra Cotta Color http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=16330 Link to Data Sheet and Color: http://www.bestmaterials.com/images/NovaLink_tech0503.pdf
Both are very good. The Novalink will last longer in very hot climates.
For the repair, lightly clean the surfaces to be bonded with a wire brush. Remove dust. Apply sealant liberally. Don't set pieces too tightly together -- a bit thicker bondline is better. Also apply underneath the small pieces, so they bond to the underlying tiles. From the ground, the repairs will be invisible.

RE: Sonoguard Recoating
Q: In 2002 I had the front porch of my house (approx 9 sq mtrs)
waterproofed using Sonoguard over an exterior ply surface. The
membrane has silica in it creating a non-slip surface and is still in
good service order, other than some discoloration due to weathering.
I would like to renew its appearance and change the color. What
products can be used to achieve my aim? Do I have to re-apply a
Sonoguard product or is there a paint product that will adhere and be
hardwearing (foot traffic) such as concrete paints etc???
A: The Sonoguard system is very easy to recoat.
An outline of the process is:
1. Clean (power wash, or use bleach / tsp and water and scrub well with a stiff bristle broom then rinse well. let dry thoroughly).
2. Inspect for any needed repairs (Cracks).
3. Prime or activate surface. You can use Xylene and lightly wipe with rags, or prime. Many thoroughly cleaned surfaces required neither. This is an applicator judgment. Xylene is flammable and hazardous. Proper safety is required. DO NOT USE ALCOHOL based products in cleaning of substrate or your tools.
4. Apply Topcoat. Be careful not apply too thick. Two thin coats are better than one thick coat. Usually, one new topcoat is enough.
Here is a link to TAN Topcoat. On this page is a link to the TECHNICAL DATA SHEET, which has more detailed info:

RE: EPDM Roofing for Trailer
Q: We would like to know if we can use EPDM roofing membrane for our trailer roof:
Trailer - Golden Falcon  with rubber roof - purchased 1996.Your EPDM is white color - 60 mils thick and 10 foot wide roll. Could you please let us know if we can use this type on our trailer?
A: EPDM roofing can be used over most any existing roof. The product is adhered. There is adhesive in both water based and solvent based types, to be compatible with various substrates. The 60 mil thick white EPDM is a heavy-gauge, durable product and quite suitable for all climates and situations. Here is a link to the pricing by foot product for more info (see all the info down this page): http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=15884
We also have recoat products. These of course are not as good as a whole new roof, but can be good for a few years or until the timing for a new roof is right.

RE: BAK WELDER FOR TARPS
Q: We use 220/240V electricity and the main purpose of these machines will be to weld tarpaulin in the industrial sector. Please furnish me with as much possible information, keeping in mind that we are not the end users but suppliers of stitching machines.
A: The Bak Laron is a nearly identical copy of the Leister Varimat (even many interchangeable parts).
 Here are the product details:
 We would ship these in the storage box noted. Its very durable.
 Shipping: It can be by air, VERY EXPENSIVE, or ocean (about $500 estimate). Or we can ship to your exporter in the US, and you can handle shipping (PREFERRED METHOD).  You may also wish to consider this product designed for tarps:

RE: EPDM VS. TPO MEMBRANE
Q: I WOULD LIKE TO KNOW THE DIFFERENCE IN THE EPDM MEMBRANE FROM THE TPO MEMBRANE. ARE THEY COMPARABLE IN PERFORMANCE? DO THEY HANDLE THE SAME TYPE OF JOBS?
A: EPDM Benefits: Easy to bend and form, outstanding cold weather resistance / flexibility, good hail resistance, easy to apply, can take a lot of movement (like in a RV motor home). No special equipment is needed for application (welders, generators). Also a good product for pond liners, patios. Easy to repair. TPO Benefits: Less expensive on very large jobs (Wal-mart sized). Requires welded seams (hot air welder & generator) and special pieces for inside/outside corners. Cannot be easily bent around curved surfaces. Penetrations are more complicated to finish.
Many years ago, EPDM had some seam problems. Today's best practice creates much stronger seams than the EPDM material itself. (primer, apply Doublestick sealant to seams, overlay coverstrip on outside of seam).
We recommend EPDM for most application, except for large commercial ones, where the applicators are skilled and trained in welding.
EPDM Link
http://www.bestmaterials.com/EPDM-Roofing.aspx
TPO Link:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/Single-Ply-Roofing.aspx

RE: Sealing an A/C Mounting on Foam Roof
Q: I had to have a new roof mounted air conditioner added to an office with a flat, foam roof of a building that is only about 2 years old. The HVAC guys made the roof penetration and set the unit in but they do not do the repair. I was going to call a roofer to repair but thought that I'd ask if you sell the items to do the repair and what the level of techinical difficulty would be.
A: We are not certain of the type of repair needed. If you can send a digital photo we can probably advise you better.
Generally, these items are used:- http://www.bestmaterials.com/SearchResult.aspx?categoryid=1170
 http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=9149
 http://www.bestmaterials.com/SearchResult.aspx?CategoryID=1067
 http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=16022
 These are not hard to use.

RE: Glacier Snow Guard placement question
Q: Hello.  How do I determine the layout and the number of SnowGuards needed for a steel roof with the following specifications?  Thanks!!!
A: You can reach Technical Support for Glacier at 1-866-766-9427
They should be able to walk you through the estimates.
Snow loads are very unpredictable. We like to recommend you put on 3 rows deep in the areas you know to be a problem, using the ADHESIVE ONLY method. Then review your roof after a winter and see if you lost any (snow load exceeded snow guard capacity). Then add 2 more rows in these areas.
The benefit if the ADHESIVE only method, is if they are ripped off by excessive load for the number there, no roof leaks result.
Another option is the clamp on types. Berger provides a free design and layout service: http://www.bergerbuildingproducts.com/services.html
You can order their items here: http://www.bestmaterials.com/snow_guards.aspx

RE: Sealants for Roof Drains
Q: I've been looking at your website and find it very informative. I'm a do it yourself man on a limited income. I'm looking for a sealer. The pvc pipe that drains into my septic tank leaks around the hole where it goes through the concrete. What type of sealant should I use?
A: We suggest the Sonolastic 150 VLM. Its the toughest most corrosion resistant product.
Before application, thoroughly clean surfaces till you have fresh surfaces, let dry, and prime.
As needed, stuff backer rod into the gap. See the backer rod page for instructions: BACKER ROD INSTRUCTIONS http://www.bestmaterials.com/Backer_Rod.aspx
Backer Rod, by the Foot: http://www.bestmaterials.com/SearchResult.aspx?categoryid=1194
Optional Cleaner: Eternaclean (or use Toluene) http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=15748
Primer: PRIMER-2000. http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=15803
Sealant: http://www.bestmaterials.com/SearchResult.aspx?CategoryID=1067

RE: Bulk Load Expansion Joint Sealant for Driveway
Q: I want to replace the expansion joint in my driveway. Can you tell me how the 2 gallon bulk sealant is applied and what the coverage is?
A: The products designed for concrete expansion joint sealant are "Self Leveling Sealants". There are several types. I like the Novalink SL best, as it will seal joint up to 2" of width, is pre-tinted, single component and quick curing. Here is a link: http://www.bestmaterials.com/SearchResult.aspx?categoryid=1151
Before applying, you clean the joint, add backer rod, tape outside top edges if desired (to form a straight seal line along the top) and apply sealant. Remove tape as soon as materials start to set.
Here is a link to the backer rod: You should use CLOSED CELL type of backer rod. Set backer rod to a depth of 1/2 the average width of the joint near the top. http://www.bestmaterials.com/Backer_Rod.aspx
Joint cleaning can be done with wire brush or other power tools. Professional applicator use grinding blades like these: Blades | Tuck Point Blades for Grout Grinding Crack Chasing
APPLICATION OF BULK SEALANT USING A BULK LOAD GUN: Bulk Load Caulking Tools
We REALLY recommend QUART tubes for those not experienced with bulk load equipment.
Amount of sealant depends on joint dimensions. Here is a guide: Estimating Guide .
Do a small test area first to practice your technique. Feel free to Email with any questions or problems.

RE: POOL DECK JOINT REPAIR
Q: I am starting to re-do the faded concrete walkway around my swimming pool but first I need to deal with the cracked and degraded caulking seam between the flat rock surface next to the pool and the textured concrete walking surface. I plan to remove the old caulking by cutting it out with a sharp knife and replacing it with ???either before or after I recolor the concrete surface. I will appreciate your advise and plan to purchase the products that you recommend.
A: The products designed for concrete expansion joint sealant are "Self Leveling Sealants". There are several types. I like the Novalink SL best, as it will seal joint up to 2" of width, is pre-tinted, single component and quick curing. Here is a link: http://www.bestmaterials.com/SearchResult.aspx?categoryid=1151
Before applying, you clean the joint, add backer rod, tape outside top edges if desired (to form a straight seal line along the top) and apply sealant. Remove tape as soon as materials start to set.
Here is a link to the backer rod: You should use CLOSED CELL type of backer rod. Set backer rod to a depth of 1/2 the average width of the joint near the top. http://www.bestmaterials.com/Backer_Rod.aspx
Joint cleaning can be done with wire brush or other power tools. Professional applicator use grinding blades like these: http://www.bestmaterials.com/SearchResult.aspx?categoryid=1180
Do a small test area first to practice your technique. Email me with any questions or problems.

RE: Repair of Tear in RV EPDM Roof
Q: I have a torn EPDM roof on my RV that is approximately 1 ft long. What’s the best to repair this? Is the White EPDM Coverstrip tape (6 inch wide) the best product? What other items should I purchase to complete the repair?
A: The lowest cost / best repair is as follows:
1. Clean area using a plastic scrubber (no water, just scrubbing to freshen the surfaces to be sealed. Or use Eternaclean cleaner and rags and rub well. 2. Prime using Multipurpose Primer (only prime the area to be sealed, as primed areas will yellow a bit where exposed to the sun). 3. Peel and stick EPDM cover strip down. Extend past the tear area about 4 inches either way. 4. Roll the product aggressively to bond sealant to the old roof area.
Here are links to these item: Coverstrip and accessories (see bottom of detail page): http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=16016
You can use a wood roller as well for small repairs, such as this one: http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=15008

RE: Sealant for Poured Concrete Roof
Q: I am looking for a roof sealant that would work well on a poured concrete roof. It needs to sustain high temperatures.
A: Thank you for your inquiry! We have several systems which will withstand Arizona hot summer suns (we were 115 this week).
Sonoguard deck coating system is really good. It uses a basecoat, followed by a topcoat. If you are not trafficing over the roof area, aggregate layer is not needed. Topcoat surfaces are available in several colors. If you want a white finish deck then Polycoat PC440 base and Polyglaze 400 white is good. We also have some really nice white marble roofing granules which can be applied to the top layer as an added heat reflective / tuff coat layer.
Here are links to these products:
Sonoguard: http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=14930
Polycoat PC440 base: http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=10686
Polyglaze 400 white topcoat: http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=11193
 White granules (for flat roofs). http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=11933

RE: Concrete Driveway Joint Sealant
Q: Can you help me out with this problem? I have a concrete driveway and walkway, poured 15 years ago. There is ten-test between the brick wall and concrete sidewalk. The ten-test is sinking, and water has gotten under concrete and it moved slightly last winter, a lot of frost. Also some saw cuts have opened and water gets in base under driveway. I would like to seal along the house and in the saw cuts but the gap ranges from 1/4" to 1/2". Is there a caulking I can buy that will fill in and stop further water damage? Please advise.
A: The products designed for concrete expansion joint sealant are "Self Leveling Sealants". There are several types. I like the Novalink SL best, as it will seal joint up to 2" of width, is pre-tinted, single component and quick curing. Here is a link: http://www.bestmaterials.com/SearchResult.aspx?categoryid=1151
Before applying, you clean the joint, add backer rod, tape edges if desired and apply sealant. Remove tape as soon as materials start to set.
Here is a link to the backer rod: You should use CLOSED CELL type of backer rod. http://www.bestmaterials.com/Backer_Rod.aspx
Joint cleaning can be done with wire brush or other power tools. Professional applicator use grinding blades like these: http://www.bestmaterials.com/SearchResult.aspx?categoryid=1180
Do a small test area first to practice your technique. Email me with any questions or problems.

RE: swimming pool deck-to-pool
Q: We are looking for a sealant such as mentioned in the subject line above. This is needed for the pool tile to the coping on the deck. I hope that is correct. We have to apply while water is in the pool and up in a 45º corner. Can you help? Please reply ASAP. Thank you.
A: We have tested several sealants on my own pool for this application. The best long term performing product is Sonolastic 150 VLM. It outperforms regular joint grout, stays clean, is easy to clean and easy to apply. Here is a link to this product:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/SearchResult.aspx?CategoryID=1067
If you want something which looks textured, the TX1 is good. Cured, it looks like grout (especially the off-white which looks like aged white grout.
http://www.bestmaterials.com/tx1-textured-polyurethane-sealant-1089.html
But this chemistry does not seem as long lasting as the Sonolastic 150.

RE: waterproofing retaining wall behind tennis court
Q: I am looking for a waterproofing system for the poured retaining
wall surrounding my new tennis court. The biggest problem is where
the 4 foot poured concrete wall sits on the slab. I am at the stage
where we need to apply a material that will keep water from coming
through the seem and wall itself. Then we will complete the French
drain below the slab. Please advise as to what products work best.
The wall is 4 foot high on the back and 25 feet more on both sides and
then tapers down to grade at center of court. I am guessing that the
sq. footage is around 500.
A: Here is some information  to think about on a similar problem -- basement waterproofing:
Waterproofing an existing basement is a complex project with many options. Since we can't be there to see first hand the leak areas, construction, hill terrain, soil, exterior landscape and exterior drainage systems, we can only provide generalized answers. Also, budget, skills of repair person, how permanent of fix you want, odor during repairs and interior decorating issues affects the options.
SO, I will try and answer your inquiry in phases.
First, there is no permanent 100% waterproof system which can be applied from the inside. The problem in some cases is that the concrete is a sponge, absorbs water and causes corrosion of the reinforcement bars and steel. This is turn results in fracture and decomposition of the concrete and long term failure. The prevention is to dig around the outside down to the foundation footing and apply waterproof layers and joint sealants to the outside, preventing the water from getting into the concrete and joints. The floor is more difficult. It must be torn up, have waterproofing membranes laid down, then re-poured on top of this. All of which is WAY to expensive.
What can be done to greatly extend the life of and existing basement, and get rid of the water and moisture?
Here are some processes to consider:
EXTERIOR:
1. Grade the soil outside the high sides of the house to slope away from the house at least 20 feet.
2. Along the newly graded slope area, at least at the bottom end of the slope, bury perforated drain pipe covered with stainless screen into a 1 foot wide x 2 foot deep rock/gravel trench. The "French drain" pipe will collect much of the water and drain it away from the house.
3. Bury a heavy duty waterproofing membrane at least 10 feet wide, down in the topsoil of the graded area. Connect and seal the waterproofing membrane to the foundation of the house up above the top of the soil line.
EPDM 45 mil rubber membranes
4. Option: Refill soil area with CLAY soil, which is not so water absorbent.
5. Apply roof gutters to the house. Then have the downspouts connect to drain pipes which take the water well away from the house, and below the foundation grade.
The above actions will get rid of MUCH of the water, but not all. Depending on the soil, rain, water table and melting snow, the soil can still become saturated, and these actions may be less effective. But in many situations, this works quite well.
 

INTERIOR:
1. Strip down the basement walls and floors. Remove all existing sealants and caulks.
2. Power wash surfaces, if needed.
3. Allow to thoroughly dry (use fans and such as needed). This could take a couple weeks.
4. If coating requires, Prime all concrete surfaces joints and cracks using penetrating waterproofing primer, such as:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=9358
or
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=15025
5. Repair all cracks and decomposed concrete. A good waterproof repair mortar is Emaco GP:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=16102 or the Emecole items:

http://www.bestmaterials.com/SearchResult.aspx?Manufacturer=160 6. Apply a negative side waterproofing product such as THOROSEAL cementitious waterproofing.
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=16580 or http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=16582 7. Use proper SEALANT on the joints and cracks:
Floor joints:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=11161
Wall, Corner Joints and cracks:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=15150
8. Install adequate permanent basement ventilation, if it does not already exist.

IF your conditions are such that above does not 100% work, then you must resort to the excavation and exterior wall and floor waterproofing methods. A flood drain and exterior "french drains" along the base of the wall footing should be installed as well.

RE: RV Roof Replacement Procedure
Q: I have some roof damage on my camper it is a 1995 model 36footer ,the damage is pretty bad looks like to me its been leaking quite sometime but we don't want to get rid of it i need to replace the whole cover with rubber roof but i don't know how to start it , i have to replace some the wood under it too about 4 to 5 ft to thee rear and maybe back wall do you have some ideas besides replace the whole camper.
A: Here is the detailed process for replacement of your RV roof.
Overview of Application Process: (after stripping and repairing substructure)
1. Clean rooftop surface well (broom then rags). (dry clean only - no water or chemicals)
2. Load material on roof.
EPDM Membrane (31 feet):
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=15884
3. Unfold EPDM membrane and position material (sometimes two sections are easier to apply than one big one.
4. Make any cuts needed to clear penetrations such as vents etc. Final position EPDM membrane.
5. Fold half of EPDM membrane back on itself. Wipe BOTH exposed surfaces with a clean rag to remove dust.
6. Evenly apply bonding adhesive using roller to a thickness of about 12 mils (50-60 sqft/gallon) to the base and EPDM membrane. Allow solvent to flash off until adhesive is sticky but not wet..
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=16013
7. Slowly fold back the first half of roofing into the adhesive.
8. As you go, use a stiff floor broom, brush the top surface of the roofing to remove any bubbles and seat material into adhesive.
9. Repeat 5-8 after folding the second half of EPDM membrane back of the side you just adhered.
10. Trim EPDM membrane material around penetrations (you generally run the EPDM up the side of the penetration). Apply adhesive around penetrations and adhere membrane.
11. Repeat  10 for edges areas.
12. If your EPDM membrane went on in two or more pieces you will have a seam to deal with. The seams are finished using primer and seam tape (double sided sticky butyl rubber sealant). The overlapping seams are designed with about 3 inches of overlap. Clean seam area (all surfaces to be bonded) using cleaner and rags. Both sides are primed. Primer dries in about 5-10 minutes. Then you place the bottom portion of the peel and stick tape. Then remove the top covering and fold the covering EPDM flap into the top of the seam tape. Then roll in the surface to firmly seal the materials together.
ALTERNATIVELY, you can use Eternabond DOUBLESTICK. It does not require the primer step, but you need to use ETERNACLEAN first on the surfaces. Here are these items (see bottom page of link for related items):
AFTER SEAMS glued together, clean surfaces with Eternaclean, then attach top cover tape over seam (yes you are creating a double seal):
MORE INFO ON SEAMS:
See page 10 "SEAMS"  in this guide:
How to Make Reliable Seams
CLEANER (1 can):
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=15748
PRIMER (1 gallon):
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=16014
SEAM TAPE (1 roll):
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=16076
13. Re-Apply the termination bar (trim piece tht runs at bottom edge of EPDM membrane and mechanically attaches the end of the membrane to the upper sidewall of the RV). You can use Butyl Rubber Sealang under the trim piece, like most original designs. Then apply M1 sealant at the upper and lower edge of the trim piece and ON the screws before inserting, and OVER the screw heads when done.
Butyl rubber (2 rolls):
http://www.bestmaterials.com/butyl-rubber-sealant-caulk-1103.html
M1 Sealant (about 8 tubes):
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=14959
14. To finish sealing the round pipe penetrations, use flashing boots. Apply with M1 sealant at the base AND top area. Then fasten down with stainless steel fasteners (through the EPDM membrane). Apply more M1 sealant around the perimeter of the flashing boot and over screws.
FLASHING BOOTS (size and quantity as needed):
http://www.bestmaterials.com/masterflash_sizes_and_materials.aspx
15. Finish details on large rooftop equipment and skylights: The large square equipment has additional pieces of EPDM membrane applied around base as noted in the detail guide. You can use EPDM peel and stick cover strip (prime surface first) for these areas. SEE the page labeled PAGE 13 "Outside Corners" of this guide:
Weatherbond Installation Guide
16. Prime EPDM then apply peel and stick cover strip over cuts and seams.
PRIMER (quantity already covered above):
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=16014
COVER STRIP (1 roll):
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=16016
LINKS:
EPDM Roofing Page:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/EPDM-Roofing.aspx
Installation Video (Click on the VIDEO movie):
Installation Overview

RE: Torn EPDM roof repair
Q: I have a motor home with a Dicor rubber roof that is ten years old. It had a small air picket up front by the front air vent. After driving through a very large wind storm the pocket has grown very large. Can I purchase some new glue from your store and pull up the front vent, place the glue in and then put the vent back down?
A: REPAIR OF TEAR IN RV EPDM ROOF (or fixing loose areas):
1. Make a few small slits along damaged area into good area using a razor knife so that you can peel back the tear to clean under it.
2. Clean BOTH the underlying roof surface AND underside of EPDM material well. Use a scrubber and Eternaclean cleaner. Let dry. If you cannot clean well, use Eternaprime primer on both surfaces. Let cure about an hour.
Cleaner:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=15748
Primer:
http://bestmaterials.com/SearchResult.aspx?KeyWords=eternaprime
3. Apply thin beads of M1 adhesive sealant OR Eternabond DOUBLESTICK tape, in the area UNDER the EPDM roofing materials which need to be re-stuck down. For the M1 sealant, spread out material (with a notched trowel or similar). Reapply EPDM Roofing to surface and walk on / squeegee with hand or roller to remove any bubbles.
For the DoubleStick, follow the instructions on the video tape link below:
M1 Sealant:
DoubleStick:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=15343
Video Tape Link:
http://eternabond.com/videos/This-Old-EPDM-Roof.htm
4. OPTIONAL: Mechanically fasten both sides of repair area. Install a series of short stainless steel ring shank nails (or flathead screws) on both sides of crack/tear area. This will be the mechanical reinforcement for the tear area (which is needed on RVs) :
http://bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=15222
5. If M1 sealant is used, let the M1 cure 2 days (it needs to outgas a bit).
6. Clean the EPDM roof surface using Eternaclean in the area where the RoofSeal White sealant tape will be applied. Cleaner:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=15748
7. THEN cover repair area (and any fasteners used)  with ROOFSEAL WHITE repair tape, overlapping the tape about 1-2 inches outside the repair area/nails. This will seal out the water and hide the repair nicely. Use a roller and apply:
4" RoofSeal
http://bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=11341
or 6" wide if needed:
http://bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=11342
You can overlap RoofSeal tape as needed, no problem.
Again, install as per this procedure:
http://eternabond.com/videos/This-Old-EPDM-Roof.htm
8. Inspect and repair other cracks in the roof with Eternabond as above. Check carefully around corners, edges and along the metal sealing strip areas.

RE: Scupper Repair
Q: I need some advice Installing new scupper the existing roof is 10+ years old. I think my best bet is to install the flat intake on top of the existing roof "not the correct way" can you recommend a primer or cleaner should I try Eternabond or go with fiber mesh and primer ? Which tar if I use fiber glass mesh. The scupper I am buying is your RND 4x12. Thanks for any help!
A: The Eternabond products are compatible with all the roofing materials.
I would consider this:
1. Clean up as well as possible. Wire brush all rust away.
2. Use ETERNAPRIME on surfaces. http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=11025
3. Apply Eternabond WEBSEAL. http://www.bestmaterials.com/SearchResult.aspx?CategoryID=1023
4. Apply a topcoat sealant over Webseal. Recently, some roofers have used a layer of Novalink for this with good results. It was finished flat and smooth with a putty knife (think of it as a permanent wet patch material). http://www.bestmaterials.com/SearchResult.aspx?categoryid=1158

RE: concrete crack repair and seal
Q: I need help in ordering a concrete caulk. I have long cracks in my concrete that comes up to my house. What product should I order to close up the cracks so when water puddles close to the house, it doesn't wick up the wall and into my house?
A: Although we cannot be there to see the exact situation, the general proper repair for this is to grind cracks with a V-shaped grinding tool (called a crack chaser), clean cracks, stuff lower gap with backer rod, then fill with sealant.
Blade information: Blades for Crack Chasing
Backer Rod: http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=9616
Sealant: http://www.bestmaterials.com/SearchResult.aspx?CategoryID=1068
Alternatively, you could just clean and caulk joint (fill surface of crack with sealant). This would not have the expansion and contraction shaped needed for real long term survival, but MAY work well. It really depends on the amount of movement in the concrete from season to season (what ever caused the cracks to begin with). Alternative caulking (not self leveling): (choose limestone for light gray and Aluminum gray for darker gray color) http://www.bestmaterials.com/SearchResult.aspx?CategoryID=1067
 
 
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CUSTOMER RESPONSIBILITIES AND OBLIGATIONS INCLUDE BUT ARE NOT LIMITED TO: To carefully read and understand all product application notes, limitations, data sheets and MSDS sheets BEFORE ORDERING; To contact us in advance of ordering if you cannot locate this information on our website so that it can be provided; To contact the manufacture regarding all safety questions; To find, read and understand this information; To study the MSDS sheets and follow all safety precautions; To carefully inspect and test any incoming goods including for suitability for an application; To determine appropriate order quantities needed of products including extra materials for jobsite waste and errors in application.
 
 

Or click on a topic to browse all FAQs on that subject: (links coming soon)

    A-E      F-P     R-Z
 EPDM Roofing  Roof Coatings
 Backer Rod  Eternabond  Roof Repairs
 Caulking & Sealants  Expansion Joints  Roof Tiles, Synthetic / Plastic
 Concrete Sealants  Fasteners  RV Re-Roof and Roof Repairs
 Concrete Repair  Hot-Air Welders  Snow Guards
 Deck Coatings  Metal Goods  Solar Powered Vents
 Drains  Misc.  TPO Membrane
 Pipe Flashings  Waterproofing
 


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