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FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS (AND ANSWERS)
(we welcome your comments and
suggestions !)
RE: wood deck coating /
waterproofing
Date: Fri, Aug 08, 2008 8:39 am
Q: I have an outdoor wood deck
and was wondering what product you recommend for long wear. We
live in NY, so it is a cold climate and we have dogs that
regularly are on the deck. The deck is not new. Another web site
recommended Rhino Top.
A:
For wood deck which is over living space, Rhino Top is not
recommended as it is not a waterproofing product (although it has
great wear characteristics). Polyurethane deck finishes are the
toughest waterproofing deck coatings on the market (variation of
spray on truck bed liners). For first time applicators, the
Sonoguard system is the easiest:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=14930
Follow this general outline
for waterproofing most wood decks:
wood based decks
RE: Concrete Expansion Joint
Sealing / Repair Question
Date: Fri, Aug 08, 2008 8:53 am
Q:
I am a homeowner and find your website very helpful (much more
helpful than anybody in the the home centers in my area!), and I
think you carry the products I need but I want to run it by you
first before ordering. I have some areas of the house where a
horizontal piece of concrete meets a vertical piece of concrete
(ex. concrete walkway that butts up against the concrete
foundation or a concrete step). This joint has a gap, ranging in
size from 1/4" to 1-1/8". This sealant is crumbling away and is no
longer doing it's job; plus it looks bad. What do I need to repair
this? I believe I need to remove the old sealant and stuff the
joint with backer rod, and then use some sort of sealant on top of
that. I obvioulsy want to seal the crack to prevent further
damage, but I also desire a nice, clean, smooth look when I'm done
A:
The concrete joints you have are treated as EXPANSION JOINTS. You
are on the right track for the waterproofing of this (backer rod +
sealant). The 100 % horizontal joints are filled with backer rod,
then self leveling sealant is applied over it. The vertical /
corner joints are filled with backer rod then caulked with
vertical grade sealant and tooled to finish the joint nicely.
Since most of yours are vertical / corner types, I would recommend
you consider this product for all the areas:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=16221
The best backer rod for your
application is CLOSED CELL. Pick a size 25 to 50 % greater than
the gap.
http://www.bestmaterials.com/Backer_Rod.aspx
RE: Ponding Water
Date: Thu, Aug 07, 2008 1:25 pm
Q:
I have a 8 year old EPDM roof that does have ponded water. I would
like to use your Formflex 6000 roof coating. The other problem I
have is that the roof leaks in the Winter if I have Ice coating with
Snow on top. Your suggestions.
A:
The root CAUSE of the ponding water area needs to be
considered first. Possible causes: roof leak resulting in bowed
substrates, insulation, decking, or framing; other structural
problems; settling of building; or excessive snow load causing
bowing and accumulation of water during the snow load. If you let us
know what you suspect the causes are, how deep and the size of the
ponding areas, we can advise further. I would call out a roofer to
give you a repair estimate and see what they have to say. As to
coatings, you should also consider the ROOFMATE HT as a topcoat. Its
more durable. Use a primer on the EPDM first.
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=16573
EPDM PRIMER:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=16014
SEAM REPAIRS: Use either Eternabond
tape, or primer + EPDM Cover Tape:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=11341
or this with primer (its more
durable than the Eternabond):
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=16016
RE: Rhino Top Coating for Pool Deck
Date: Wed, Aug 06, 2008 7:51 am
Q:
I am looking to re-coat my existing cool deck in a new color. Does
the entire deck area need to be primed with the Uni-Tile Sealer
first? Do you sell a product that would simulate the texture (knock
down) of the existing cool deck. I added two patio areas recently
that are bare concrete.
A:
Priming is recommended for all areas to be coated. It is the
key to great long-term adhesion.
The textured Rhino-Top, if applied
over all areas (existing knock-down cool deck AND bare concrete),
will have a somewhat uniform look, but not exact. We have a test
area done outside our warehouse you can look at to see what its
like. Most colors are shipped by the factory for each order.
Standard colors are quick to get. Custom colors take several days.
More info is here:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=15024
RE: Pipe Flashing for Solar Panels
Date: Mon, August 04, 2008 7:03 pm
Q:
I am mounting solar panels on a regular asphalt shingle roof with a
pitch of 5/12. I am using standard 3/4" i.d. copper tubing. I need a
flashing that will stand temperatures of 220 degrees F on a regular
basis, with the possibility of temperatures up to 300 once in a
while. What do you recommend? How much is it? And how do I get it?
A:
There are two options for you, depending on when / how you wish to
install.
Number 1 is the best:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=16616
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=15001
If you need a retrofit type, then
these are the options:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=16151
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=14993
Sealants: A generous bead of M1
sealant is also advisable.
RE: Deck Re-Coating Project
Date: Sat, Jul 12, 2008 9:34 am
Q:
I would like to try your product on a clients deck, there is an
existing deck coating however, it appears as though the last
contractor attempted to put a thin layer of color over an intact
membrane but the thin layer has failed. My questions are, 1.) should
we remove the entire thin layer before introducing your product?
2.)We will be pressure washing (3000 p.s.i.) to remove all loose and
peeling substances. If we need to remove all of it, how would you
recommend we do this to avoid damaging the membrane underneath? and
3.) Will we need the self leveling base coat over the entire deck
surface?
A:
I believe you are referring to our polyurethane type
walk-deck waterproofing / coating systems.
To recoat an existing deck with
another polyurethane type system (NOT ASPHALTIC) you generally do
this (assuming the base system does not leak and has no cracks):
1. Powerwash with a HIGH PRESSURE
washer to remove old coating & allow to dry. The integrity of a new
coating will only be as good as the foundation, so it needs to be
sound. 2. Prime. 3. Coat using one to two coats of topcoat as per
specification.
Two popular systems for this are:
SONOGUARD:
primer:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=15551
topcoats:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/SearchResult.aspx?KeyWords=sg-topcoat
POLYCOAT:
primer
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=9358
Topcoat:
(tan shown)
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=11676
RE: Gable vent dimensions
Date: Fri, Jul 11, 2008 9:23 am
Q:
I am looking for a gable vent to fit a 18.25 x 18.25 rough opening .
Is the 18 x18 vent plus the flange or 18 x18 overall?
A:
For an 18x18 Standard Mount gable vent, such as this one:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=9312
The key dimensions of our gable
vents are:
Overall outside face to face: 19 x
19 inches
Opening needed in wall: 18 x 18
(nominal rough opening)
Inside Recess / Louver Area width:
17.5 x 17.5 inches
Distance from Outside Flange Edge
to Recess/Louver area: 3/4 inch all around
Flange Outer Face Width: 1.5 inch
RE: Basement Wall Waterproofing
Date: Wed, Jul 09, 2008 11:57 am
Q: We are looking for a product
that will provide waterproofing on the interior of a below grade
stone wall? See the attached photos showing discoloration of a stone
where a small amount of water is penetrating an existing wall on the
campus of the University of M.
A: We reviewed your application
with the tech people from BASF, and they suggest the following:
1. Remove all furring strips from
the wall.
2. Power wash, let dry.
3. Apply two coats of ThoroSeal
with Acryl 60 additive, as per instructions.
Here are links to these items and
data sheets:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=15871
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=15182
http://www.bestmaterials.com/PDF_files/ac6_tdg.pdf
http://www.bestmaterials.com/PDF_files/tsl_tdg.pdf
This should provide the negative
side waterproofing you are seeking.
RE: Elastomeric Plus RhinoTop.
Date: Mon, Jul 07, 2008 1:42 pm
Q:
Could I seal the cracks as you have instructed at
http://www.bestmaterials.com/deck_coatings.aspx but instead of
Sonoguard use Rhinotop to cover. I understand that Rhinotop does not
waterproof the surface but if it will make the surface somewhat
water resistant and permit walking then it should work fine. You
see, though this is a roof deck, it is sloped and since 1984 when it
was built it has never been sealed with anything. However, due to
acid rain or just plain weathering it has some pocks and cracks in
which, on really wet periods, eg. hurricanes, tropical storms
etc...we will get a drop or two of water seeping through discoloring
the ceiling of the upstairs.
A:
This set of applications for waterproofing a concrete roof.
It uses RoofMate Elastomeric coating, followed by Rhino-Top for
traffic areas. The spec is very comprehensive. United Coatings does
good work in this area and RhinoTop is excellent product:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/PDF_Files/RoofMate-concrete.pdf
See page 4, section H.= "To provide
a non-skid walk path on roofs subject to heavy foot traffic,
demarcate walkways by applying an additional coat of ROOF MATE,
using a medium-nap roller or airless spray, at the rate of 1 gallon
per 100 sq. ft. (.4 l/m²) along the designated traffic area. While
the coating is still wet, broadcast 3M #11 ceramic roofing granules
to the point of refusal. UNITED COATINGS' Rhino Top, a non-skid
colored acrylic topping.
The RoofMate and RhinoTop will be a
lot less expensive than a Sonoguard coating. RoofMate Elastomeric
coating is here:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/elastomeric-roof-coatings-855.html
RE: Gas vs Electric
Hot Air Welders
Date: Tue, Jul 01, 2008 2:11 pm
Q:
How does Hot Air Welder such Sievert TH1650 Or Leister Variamt
compare to the PNS-4 with the #3334 hot air tip for heat output? One
is rated degrees, cfm, watts; the other in BTU.
I am familiar with electric heat
guns and have used many over the years. I would like to know what to
expect from a propane unit. What is the temperature at the nozzle of
the propane unit?
A:
We checked with tech support at Sievert. They provided the following
information: The propane hot air kit (PNS-4) uses the 3334-90
Promatic Hot Air burner. The heat temperature at the nozzle is 1,200
degrees Fahrenheit. The BTU reference on the burners really refers
to the amount of propane consumed. The TH-1650 will produce
temperatures between 70 - 1,100 degress Fahrenheit.
What can you expect with the
propane unit?
1) The electric hot air gun has a
variable speed fan. The propane burner will not have as much air
flow but will be constant, and more stable.
2) The electric hot air guns need
time to get up to temp, and a cool down period to protect the
heating elements. The propane unit has instant heat, and will not
need a cool down period, as you can start & stop at will.
3) The PNS-4 Kit is much more
portable, and of course does not need electricity.
FYI, here is a link to types of
propane torches available:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/propane-torche-870.html
RE: Repair of Terra Cotta Roof
Tiles
Date: Sat, Jun 28, 2008 1:58 pm
Q:
I am restoring a historic building with a facade of terra cotta.
Many pieces are damaged and need to be reassembled using a very
strong but hopefully flexible adhesive. We were thinking that a
strong adhesive long life urethane caulk like Vulkam or Sonneborn
might work. Do you have any recommendations?
A:
We have tested several products for this application. We can
recommend these two:
Np1- Redwood Tan Color
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=10994
Color Link (actual color will fade
a bit, and as a repair item, will look VERY natural.
http://www.colorcharts.org/ccorg/resources/colors.aspx?companyid=124549&lineid=635&cbn=TY09-DWMK-TUB9
Novalink - Terra Cotta Color
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=16330 Link to Data Sheet
and Color:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/images/NovaLink_tech0503.pdf
Both are very good. The Novalink
will last longer in very hot climates.
For the repair, lightly clean the
sufaces to be bonded with a wire brush. Remove dust. Apply sealant
liberally. Don't set pieces too tightly together -- a bit thicker
bondline is better. Also apply underneath the small pieces, so they
bond to the underlying tiles. From the ground, the repairs will be
invisible.
RE: Sonoguard Recoating
Date: Fri, Jun 27, 2008 10:37 am
Q:
In 2002 I had the front porch of my house (approx 9 sq mtrs)
waterproofed using Sonoguard over an exterior ply surface. The
membrane has silica in it creating a non-slip surface and is still
in
good service order, other than some discolouration due to
weathering.
I would like to renew its appearance and change the colour. What
products can be used to achieve my aim? Do I have to re-apply a
Sonoguard product or is there a paint product that will adhere and
be
hardwearing (foot traffic) such as concrete paints etc???
A: The Sonoguard system is
very easy to recoat.
An outline of the process is:
1. Clean (power wash, or use
bleach / tsp and water and scrub well with a stiff bristle broom
then rinse well. let dry thoroughly).
2. Inspect for any needed repairs
(Cracks).
3. Prime or activate surface. You
can use Xylene and lightly wipe with rags, or prime. Many
thoroughly cleaned surfaces required neither. This is an
applicator judgment. Xylene is flammable and hazardous. Proper
safety is required. DO NOT USE ALCOHOL based products in cleaning
of substrate or your tools.
4. Apply Topcoat. Be careful not
apply too thick. Two thin coats are better than one thick coat.
Usually, one new topcoat is enough.
Here is a link to TAN Topcoat. On
this page is a link to the TECHNICAL DATA SHEET, which has more
detailed info:
RE: EPDM Roofing for Trailer
Date: Fri, Jun 27, 2008 9:35 am
Q:
We would like to know if we can use EPDM roofing membrane for our
trailer roof:
Trailer - Golden Falcon with
rubber roof - purchased 1996.Your EPDM is white color - 60 mils
thick and 10 foot wide roll. Could you please let us know if we
can use this type on our trailer?
A:
EPDM roofing can be used over most any existing roof. The product is
adhered. There is adhesive in both water based and solvent based
types, to be compatible with various substrates. The 60 mil thick
white EPDM is a heavy-gauge, durable product and quite suitable for
all climates and situations.Here is a link to the pricing by foot
product for more info (see all the info down this page):
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=15884
We also have recoat products. These
of course are not as good as a whole new roof, but can be good for a
few years or until the timing for a new roof is right.
RE: BAK WELDER FOR TARPS
Date: Fri, Jun 27, 2008 9:07 am
Q:
We use 220/240V electricity and the main purpose of these machines
will be to weld tarpaulin in the industrial sector. Please furnish
me with as much possible information, keeping in mind that we are
not the end users but suppliers of stitching machines.
A:
The Bak Laron is a nearly identical copy of the Leister Varimat
(even many interchangeable parts).
Here are the product details:
We would ship these in the
storage box noted. Its very durable.
Shipping: It can be by air, VERY
EXPENSIVE, or ocean (about $500 estimate). Or we can ship to your
exporter in the US, and you can handle shipping (PREFERRED
METHOD). You may also wish to consider this product designed for
tarps:
RE: EPDM VS. TPO MEMBRANE
Date: Thu, Jun 26, 2008 1:57 pm
Q:
I WOULD LIKE TO KNOW THE DIFFERENCE IN THE EPDM MEMBRANE FROM THE
TPO MEMBRANE. ARE THEY COMPARABLE IN PERFORMANCE? DO THEY HANDLE THE
SAME TYPE OF JOBS?
A:
EPDM Benefits: Easy to bend and form, outstanding cold weather
resistance / flexibility, good hail resistance, easy to apply, can
take a lot of movement (like in a RV motorhome). No special
equipment is needed for application (welders, generators). Also a
good product for pond liners, patios. Easy to repair. TPO Benefits:
Less expensive on very large jobs (Walmart sized). Requires welded
seams (hot
air welder & generator) and special pieces for inside/outside
corners. Cannot be easily bent around curved surfaces. Penetrations
are more complicated to finish.
Many years ago, EPDM had some seam
problems. Today's best practice creates much stronger seams than the
EPDM material itself. (primer, apply Doublestick sealant to seams,
overlay coverstrip on outside of seam).
We recommend EPDM for most
application, except for large commercial ones, where the applicators
are skilled and trained in welding.
EPDM Link
http://www.bestmaterials.com/EPDM-Roofing.aspx
TPO Link:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/Single-Ply-Roofing.aspx
RE: Sealing
an A/C Mounting on Foam Roof
Date: Thu, Jun 26, 2008
10:28 am
Q:
I had to have a new roof mounted air conditioner added to an office
with a flat, foam roof of a building that is only about 2 years old.
The HVAC guys made the roof penetration and set the unit in but they
do not do the repair. I was going to call a roofer to repair but
thought that I'd ask if you sell the items to do the repair and what
the level of techinical difficulty would be.
A:
We are not certain of the type of repair needed. If you can send a
digital photo we can probably advise you better.
Generally, these items are used:-
http://www.bestmaterials.com/SearchResult.aspx?categoryid=1170
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=9149
http://www.bestmaterials.com/SearchResult.aspx?CategoryID=1067
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=16022
These are not hard to use.
RE: Glacier
Snow Guard placement question
Date: Wed,
Jun 25, 2008 12:58 pm
Q: Hello. How do I determine the layout and
the number of SnowGuards needed for a steel roof with the following
specifications? Thanks!!!
A: You can reach Technical Support for Glacier at
1-866-766-9427
They should be able to walk you through the
estimates.
Snow loads are very unpredictable. We like to
recommend you put on 3 rows deep in the areas you know to be a
problem, using the ADHESIVE ONLY method. Then review your roof after a
winter and see if you lost any (snow load exceeded snow guard
capacity). Then add 2 more rows in these areas.
The benefit if the ADHESIVE only method, is if they
are ripped off by excessive load for the number there, no roof leaks
result.
Another option is the clamp on types. Berger
provides a free design and layout service:
http://www.bergerbuildingproducts.com/services.html
You can order their items here:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/snow_guards.aspx
RE: Sealants
Date: Wed, June 25,
2008 8:36 am
Q: I've been looking at your
website and find it very informative. I'm a do it yourself man on a
limited income. I'm looking for a sealer. The pvc pipe that drains
into my septic tank leaks around the hole where it goes through the
concrete. What type of sealant should I use?
A: We suggest the Sonolastic 150
VLM. Its the toughes most corrosion resistant product.
Before application,
thoroughly clean surfaces till you have fresh surfaces, let dry, and
prime.
As needed, stuff
backer rod into the gap. See the backer rod page for instructions:
BACKER ROD INSTRUCTIONS
http://www.bestmaterials.com/Backer_Rod.aspx
Backer Rod, by the
Foot:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/SearchResult.aspx?categoryid=1194
Optional Cleaner:
Eternaclean (or use Toluene)
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=15748
Primer: PRIMER-2000.
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=15803
Sealant:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/SearchResult.aspx?CategoryID=1067
RE: Bulk Load Expansion
Joint Sealant for Driveway
Date: Tue, June 24, 2008
10:07 am
Q:
I want to replace the expansion joint in my driveway. Can you tell
me how the 2 gallon bulk sealant is applied and what the coverage
is?
A:
The products designed for concrete expansion joint sealant are "Self
Leveling Sealants". There are several types. I like the Novalink SL
best, as it will seal joint up to 2" of width, is pretinted, single
component and quick curing. Here is a link:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/SearchResult.aspx?categoryid=1151
Before applying, you clean the
joint, add backer rod, tape outside top edges if desired (to form a
straight seal line along the top) and apply sealant. Remove tape as
soon as materials start to set.
Here is a link to the backer rod:
You should use CLOSED CELL type of backer rod. Set backer rod to a
depth of 1/2 the average width of the joint near the top.
http://www.bestmaterials.com/Backer_Rod.aspx
Joint cleaning can be done with
wire brush or other power tools. Professional applicator use
grinding blades like these:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/SearchResult.aspx?categoryid=1180
APPLICATION OF BULK SEALANT USING A
BULK LOAD GUN:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=15788
We REALLY recommend QUART tubes for
those not experienced with bulk load equipment.
Amount of sealant depends on joint
dimensions. Here is a guide:
Estimating Guide .
Do a small test area first to
practice your technique. Feel free to Email with any questions or
problems.
RE: POOL DECK JOINT REPAIR
Date: Tue, June 24, 2008 10:59 am
Q: I am starting to re-do the
faded concrete walkway around my swimming pool but first I need to
deal with the cracked and degraded caulking seam between the flat
rock surface next to the pool and the textured concrete walking
surface. I plan to remove the old caulking by cutting it out with a
sharp knife and replacing it with ???either before or after I
recolor the concrete surface. I will appreciate your advise and plan
to purchase the products that you recommend.
A:
The products designed for concrete expansion joint sealant are "Self
Leveling Sealants". There are several types. I like the Novalink SL
best, as it will seal joint up to 2" of width, is pre-tinted, single
component and quick curing. Here is a link:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/SearchResult.aspx?categoryid=1151
Before applying, you clean the
joint, add backer rod, tape outside top edges if desired (to form a
straight seal line along the top) and apply sealant. Remove tape as
soon as materials start to set.
Here is a link to the backer rod:
You should use CLOSED CELL type of backer rod. Set backer rod to a
depth of 1/2 the average width of the joint near the top.
http://www.bestmaterials.com/Backer_Rod.aspx
Joint cleaning can be done with
wire brush or other power tools. Professional applicator use
grinding blades like these:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/SearchResult.aspx?categoryid=1180
Do a small test area first to
practice your technique. Email me with any questions or problems.
RE: Repair of Tear in RV EPDM
Roof
Date: Mon, Jun 23, 2008 8:34 am
Q:
I have a torn EPDM roof on my RV that is approximately 1 ft long.
What’s the best to repair this? Is the White EPDM Coverstrip tape (6
inch wide) the best product? What other items should I purchase to
complete the repair?
A:
The lowest cost / best repair is as follows:
1. Clean area using a plastic
scrubber (no water, just scrubbing to freshen the surfaces to be
sealed. Or use Eternaclean cleaner and rags and rub well. 2. Prime
using Multipurpose Primer (only prime the area to be sealed, as
primed areas will yellow a bit where exposed to the sun). 3. Peel
and stick EPDM cover strip down. Extend past the tear area about 4
inches either way. 4. Roll the product aggressively to bond sealant
to the old roof area.
Here are links to these item:
Coverstrip and accessories (see bottom of detail page):
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=16016
You can use a wood roller as well
for small repairs, such as this one:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=15008
RE: Sealant for Poured
Concrete Roof
Date: Sun, Jun 22, 2008 5:17
pm
Q:
I am looking for a roof sealant that would work well on a poured
concrete roof. It needs to sustain high temperatures.
A:
Thank you for your inquiry! We have several systems which
will withstand Arizona hot summer suns (we were 115 this week).
Sonoguard deck coating system is
really good. It uses a basecoat, followed by a topcoat. If you are
not trafficing over the roof area, aggregate layer is not needed.
Topcoat surfaces are available in several colors. If you want a
white finish deck then Polycoat PC440 base and Polglaze 400 white is
good. We also have some really nice white marble roofing granules
which can be applied to the top layer as an added heat reflective /
tuff coat layer.
Here are links to these products:
Sonoguard:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=14930
Polycoat PC440 base:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=10686
Polyglaze 400 white topcoat:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=11193
White granules (for flat
roofs).
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=11933
RE: Concrete Driveway Joint Sealant
Date: Sun, Jun 22, 2008 4:55 pm
Q:
Can you help me out with this problem? I have a concrete
driveway and walkway, poured 15 years ago. There is ten-test between
the brick wall and concrete sidewalk. The ten-test is sinking, and
water has gotten under concrete and it moved slightly last winter, a
lot of frost. Also some saw cuts have opened and water gets in base
under driveway. I would like to seal along the house and in the saw
cuts but the gap ranges from 1/4" to 1/2". Is there a caulking I can
buy that will fill in and stop further water damage? Please advise.
A:
The products designed for concrete expansion joint sealant
are "Self Leveling Sealants". There are several types. I like the
Novalink SL best, as it will seal joint up to 2" of width, is
pretinted, single component and quick curing. Here is a link:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/SearchResult.aspx?categoryid=1151
Before applying, you clean the
joint, add backer rod, tape edges if desired and apply sealant.
Remove tape as soon as materials start to set.
Here is a link to the backer rod:
You should use CLOSED CELL type of backer rod.
http://www.bestmaterials.com/Backer_Rod.aspx
Joint cleaning can be done with
wire brush or other power tools. Professional applicator use
grinding blades like these:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/SearchResult.aspx?categoryid=1180
Do a small test area first to
practice your technique. Email me with any questions or problems.
RE: swimming pool deck-to-pool
Date: Sun, Jun 22, 2008 4:36 pm
Q: We are looking for a sealant
such as mentioned in the subject line above. This is needed for the
pool tile to the coping on the deck. I hope that is correct. We have
to apply while water is in the pool and up in a 45º corner. Can you
help? Please reply ASAP. Thank you.
A:
We have tested several sealants on my own pool for this application.
The best long term performing product is Sonolastic 150 VLM. It
outperforms regular joint grout, stays clean, is easy to clean and
easy to apply. Here is a link to this product:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/SearchResult.aspx?CategoryID=1067
If you want something which looks
textured, the TX1 is good. Cured, it looks like grout (especially
the off-white which looks like aged white grount.
http://www.bestmaterials.com/tx1-textured-polyurethane-sealant-1089.html
But this chemistry does not seem as
long lasting as the Sonolastic 150.
RE: waterproofing retaining wall
behind tennis court
Date: Thu, May 22, 2008 9:53 am
Q:
I am looking for a waterproofing system for the poured retaining
wall surrounding my new tennis court. The biggest problem is where
the 4 foot poured concrete wall sits on the slab. I am at the
stage
where we need to apply a material that will keep water from coming
through the seem and wall itself. Then we will complete the french
drain below the slab. Please advise as to what products work best.
The wall is 4 foot high on the back and 25 feet more on both sides
and
then tapers down to grade at center of court. I am guessing that
the
sq. footage is around 500.
A: Here is some information
to think about on a similar problem -- basement waterproofing:
Waterproofing an existing
basement is a complex project with many options. Since we can't be
there to see first hand the leak areas, construction, hill
terrain, soil, exterior landscape and exterior drainage systems,
we can only provide generalized answers. Also, budget, skills of
repair person, how permanent of fix you want, odor during repairs
and interior decorating issues affects the options.
SO, I will try and answer your inquiry in phases.
First, there is no permanent 100% waterproof system which can be
applied from the inside. The problem in some cases is that the
concrete is a sponge, absorbs water and causes corrosion of the
reinforcement bars and steel. This is turn results in fracture and
decomposition of the concrete and long term failure. The
prevention is to dig around the outside down to the foundation
footing and apply waterproof layers and joint sealants to the
outside, preventing the water from getting into the concrete and
joints. The floor is more difficult. It must be torn up, have
waterproofing membranes laid down, then re-poured on top of this.
All of which is WAY to expensive.
What can be done to greatly extend the life of and existing
basement, and get rid of the water and moisture?
Here is what I would consider:
EXTERIOR:
1. Grade the soil outside the high sides of the house to slope
away from the house at least 20 feet.
2. Along the newly graded slope area, at least at the bottom end
of the slope, bury perforated drain pipe covered with stainless
screen into a 1 foot wide x 2 foot deep rock/gravel trench. The
"French drain" pipe will collect much of the water and drain it
away from the house.
3. Bury a heavy duty waterproofing membrane at least 10 feet wide,
down in the topsoil of the graded area. Connect and seal the
waterproofing membrane to the foundation of the house up above the
top of the soil line.
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=14960
4. Option: Refill soil area with CLAY soil, which is not so water
absorbant.
4. Apply roof gutters to the house. Then have the downspouts
connect to drain pipes which take the water well away from the
house, and below the foundation grade.
The above actions will get rid of MUCH of the water, but not all.
Depending on the soil, rain, water table and melting snow, the
soil can still become saturated, and these actions may be less
effective. But in many situations, this works quite well.
INTERIOR PHASE 1:
1. Strip down the basement walls and floors. Remove all existing
sealants and caulks.
2. Power wash or sandblast / bead-blast the surfaces.
3. Allow to thoroughly dry (use fans and such as needed). This
could take a couple weeks.
4. Prime all concrete surfaces joints and cracks using penetrating
waterproofing primer, such as:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=9358
or
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=15025
5. Repair all cracks and decomposed concrete. This is a whole
topic on its own we can cover later.
But if you are using the Aquaseal product, you prepare as follows:
All shrinkage and non-moving structural cracks under 1/16" shall
be primed then pretreated with not less than a
30 wet mil coating of Polycoat-Aquaseal® 5000 extending 3" on
either side of the crack. Bridge the joints, cracks, and
flashing's with 4" (10 cm) Straight Jacket Tape, pushing it into
Polycoat-Aquaseal® 5000 with a trowel. Over the reinforcement tape
apply a stripe coat of Polycoat-Aquaseal® 5000 and smooth onto
adjacent surface. All cracks over 1/16", moving structural cracks
and cold joints, shall be routed to 1/4" wide by 1/4" deep, the
area should be primed, a joint backing shall be inserted and the
void sealed with an appropriate polyurethane sealant.
6. Use proper SEALANT on the joints and cracks:
Floor joints:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=11161
Wall, Corner Joints and cracks:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=15150
7. Install adequate permanent basement ventilation, if it does not
already exist.
INTERIOR PHASE 2.
Now you have the final finishing options:
A. Eternabond Tape Sealant: Most expensive (about $2.70 per
square foot). Most permanent. Allows for a lot of movement and
future cracking. 100% waterproof. Also seals radon gases. NO odor.
Easy to apply (1-step, peel and stick). Finish color can be black,
white or gray. Can be painted over. 2 foot wide rolls will leave a
small seam at the overlaps. The corners and wall to floor joint
has an extra L shaped piece applied first, and the floor and wall
coverings overlap this piece.
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=11336
B. Roll on AQUASEAL polyurethane waterproofing materials. (about
$0.64/sq ft.). 2 coat minimum. Some odor (stronger than paint).
Messy to apply. Requires respirator, depending on your basement
and ventilation. Cures to a medium gray color. Paint-able. This is
kind of a truck-bed liner material. Dries to a very tough surface
slightly textured.
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=11185
IF your conditions are such that above does not 100% work, then
you must resort to the excavation and exterior wall and floor
waterproofing methods. A flood drain and exterior "french drains"
along the base of the wall footing should be installed as well.
RE: RV Roof Replacement Procedure
Date: Thu, May 01, 2008 9:16 am
Q:
I have some roof damage on my camper it is a 1995 model 36footer
,the damage is pretty bad looks like to me its been leeking
quite sometime but we dont want to get rid of it i need to
replace the whole cover with rubber roof but i dont know how to
start it , i have to replace some the wood under it too about 4
to 5 ft to thee rear and maybe back wall do you have some ideas
besides replace the whole camper.
A:
Here is the detailed process for replacement of your RV roof.
Overview of Application
Process: (after stripping and repairing substructure)
1. Clean rooftop surface well (broom then rags). (dry clean only
- no water or chemicals)
2. Load material on roof.
EPDM Membrane (31 feet):
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=15884
3. Unfold EPDM membrane and position material (sometimes two
sections are easier to apply than one big one.
4. Make any cuts needed to clear penetrations such as vents etc.
Final position EPDM membrane.
5. Fold half of EPDM membrane back on itself. Wipe BOTH exposed
surfaces with a clean rag to remove dust.
6. Evenly apply bonding adhesive using roller to a thickness of
about 12 mils (50-60 sqft/gallon) to the base. Bonding adhesive
(5 gallons to 6 gallons):
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=16013
7. Fold back the first half of roofing into the adhesive.
8. Using a stiff floor broom, brush the top surface of the
roofing to remove any bubbles and seat material into adhesive.
9. Repeat 5-8 after folding the second half of EPDM membrane
back of the side you just adhered.
10. Trim EPDM membrane material around penetrations (you
generally run the EPDM up the side of the penetration). Apply
adhesive around penetrations and adhere membrane.
11. Repeat 10 for edges areas.
12. If your EPDM membrane went on in two or more pieces you will
have a seam to deal with. The seams are finished using primer
and seam tape (double sided sticky butyl rubber sealant). The
overlapping seams are designed with about 3 inches of overlap.
Clean seam area (all surfaces to be bonded) using cleaner and
rags. Both sides are primed. Primer dries in about 5-10 minutes.
Then you place the bottom portion of the peel and stick tape.
Then remove the top covering and fold the covering EPDM flap
into the top of the seam tape. Then roll in the surface to
firmly seal the materials together.
ALTERNATIVELY, you can use
Eternabond DOUBLESTICK. It does not require the primer step, but
you need to use ETERNACLEAN first on the surfaces. Here are
these items (see bottom page of link for related items):
AFTER SEAMS glued together,
clean surfaces with Eternaclean, then attach topcover tape over
seam (yes you are creating a double seal):
LINKS:
EPDM Roofing Page:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/EPDM-Roofing.aspx
Installation Video (Click on the VIDEO movie):
http://www.weatherbondroofing.com/consumer/install/index.htm
RE: Torn EPDM roof repair
Date: Wed, Apr 09, 2008 11:07
am
Q:
I have a motorhome with a dicor rubber roof that is ten
years old. It had a small air picket up front by the front air
vent. After driving through a verry large wind storm the pocket
has grown very large. Can I purchase some new glue from your
store and pull up the front vent, place the glue in and then put
the vent back down?
A:
REPAIR OF TEAR IN RV EPDM ROOF (or fixing loose areas):
1. Make a few small slits along damaged area into good area
using a razor knife so that you can peel back the tear to
clean under it.
2. Clean BOTH the underlying roof surface AND underside of
EPDM material well. Use a scrubber and Eternaclean cleaner.
Let dry. If you cannot clean well, use Eternaprime primer on
both surfaces. Let cure about an hour.
Cleaner:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=15748
Primer:
http://bestmaterials.com/SearchResult.aspx?KeyWords=eternaprime
3. Apply thin beads of M1 adhesive sealant OR Eternabond
DOUBLESTICK tape, in the area UNDER the EPDM roofing materials
which need to be re-stuck down. For the M1 sealant, spread out
material (with a notched trowel or similar). Reapply EPDM
Roofing to surface and walk on / squeegee with hand or roller
to remove any bubbles.
For the DoubleStick, follow
the instructions on the vidoe tape link below:
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