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FAQ and Knowledgebase
NEW: Our FAQ database contains answers* to frequently asked questions on Roofing, Venting, Waterproofing and Roofing Repairs.
Questions? Email
sales@bestmaterials.com
Or call
1-800-474-7570, 602-272-8128
You'll get a prompt response.
Quick Searches
are best done using your browser. Select "EDIT" then "FIND ON THIS PAGE" the words you wish to search for.
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FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS (AND ANSWERS)
(we welcome your comments and suggestions !)
Subject: BUILDING UP SLOPE ON WOOD
DECK
Date: June 10, 2009
Q: Which product can I use to
build up a slope and fill low areas on a wood deck before adding
waterproofing layer?
A: To add some slope or fill low
areas, you can use Super Putty. Its designed for filling ponding
water areas. Its applied with a trowel in 1/4" layers, and built-up
as needed. The base deck needs to be power washed, then dry. Primer
may be needed, depending on surface. Following this, apply the
Sonoguard Deck Coat system.
Super Putty:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=11647
Primers:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=15679
More Information on Deck Coating :
wood
based decks
Subject: RV roofing, recommended
thickness of EPDM
Date: June 10, 2009
Q: I have a travel trailer that
needs the roof replaced. My question is what product is best for
this application, the 45 mil. Or the 60 mil.?
A: The 60 mil is MUCH better
than the 45 for trailers. Its more than 1/3 stronger, and the
outside surface will outlast the 45 mil by many years. White 60 mil
is best. Here is a link:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=15884
Samples of both can be now ordered
here:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/SearchResult.aspx?KeyWords=EPDM%20sample
Subject: RV EPDM Roofing
Replacement
Date: June 08, 2009
Q: I need to replace my RV Roof.
The horizontal roof surface is about 7' 10" X 19'. I think the EPDM
should be at least 9' X 21'. Penetrations include three 14"-squares
(1 A/C, 2 vents), two 14"X16" rectangles (skylights), 3 antennas,
square hot water vent, round plumbing vent.
A: We suggest you consider an
order like this, then add some for errors and margin:
EPDM ROOFING: 10x21 feet.
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=15884
LC-60 ADHESIVE for an area of 150
Sq.ft, 3 Gallons:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=16077
New Butyl Rubber Sealant (goes
under termination bar at perimeter:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=9591
or
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=16309
Penetrations: Its best to remove
all these, then reinstall after putting the EPDM roofing down. It
makes the application of the EPDM MUCH easier. Then, on the square
items, such as A/C, you can apply a second layer of cover strip
which overlaps the flange of the A/C unit and the new EPDM roofing:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=16016
ALSO apply cover strip along front
edge, where EPDM meets roof line. Overlap the two to form a DOUBLE
layer EPDM seam.
Apply primer before cover strip. do not apply primer where cover
strip will not cover as it will discolor.
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=16490
Use M1 sealant for all the other
penetrations and any detail areas. Also, apply a dab of sealant on
screw threads when installing them and then over all exposed screw
heads. I would buy 5-6 tubes. :
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=14959
Be sure all traces of any silicone
sealants is removed and the surface is clean before applying M1.
Silicone products will readily zip off most surfaces and be somewhat
rubber band like. Get rib of all of them. Then use this cleaner
where the silicone was:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=15748
Antennas and small pipes can also
be permanently sealed well with these:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=16054
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=16164
Prior to applying EPDM membrane you
may wish to reinforce any seams with Webseal:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=11850
MORE INFORMATION: This has some
great photos
http://www.bestmaterials.com/PDF_Files/EPDM-Roof-Replacement.pdf
Subject: Sonoguard Coating products
Date: June 08, 2009
Q: I was wondering if Sonoguard
can be applied to a vertical surface. I'd like to apply it to the 8"
side of my deck?
A:
You can apply Sonoguard by roller in coats to build up the layer
thickness. I would try a 3/8" nap roller:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=10070
After cleaning and perhaps lightly
sanding (like you were going to paint it), a light coat of primer
would be good
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=11222
Properly, each deck post is flashed
with metal which is nailed to both the post and the deck, then the
metal is primed with the above primer. Then a layer of NP1 is
applied and fiberglass web is embedded in it. This is applied in the
area where the metal overlaps the deck surface.
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=17004
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=9698
More examples of details are here:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/PDF_Files/sgd_tdg.PDF
Subject: Enviroseal 40
Concrete/Masonry Silane Penetrating Sealer
Date: June 03, 2009
Q: I have a new home that was
just completed. During HEAVY wind-driven rains my brick chimney is
allowing water to seep inside the house. I would prefer not to have
to redo the flashing that my brick mason did not make extend
completely through the mortar joints and then turn up (which seems
to be the correct method) and after studying a little research I
think your penetrating sealer will hopefully fix my problem. Is the
40% Silane the correct product to use for my application?
A:
The Enviroseal is good to protect from moisture absorption in
masonry from wind driven rains. The flashing may be functioning
correctly, but the water is penetrating the masonry itself. The
Enviroseal is designed for this. More information is here:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=16483
Here is a link to product data
sheet if you did not see it:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/PDF_Files/e40_tdg.pdf
The Enviroseal 20 may also be
suitable and is lower cost.
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=16699
TWO applications are best. The
first will absorb in. The second will better close the surface.
Subject: Roof
Leaks
Date: May 21,
2009
Q: I've got roofing
problems, lots of contractor advice and sealants that just don't
make the grade. Request your input. Current Leaks:
1. Rainfall with steady drip from the top edge of every roof vent
facing the West with winds generall blowing West to East;
2. Coming down the HVAC exhaust pipe--suspect the flashing;
3. Inner wall/living room cathedral ceiling juncture leak--unknown
source. HVAC tubing and a pvc pipe run above the water stained area
and a vaulted 2/4 meets down to a cross beam. No signs of staining
in attic; piping dry to the touch. blown and rolled insulation dry
to the touch. Note: had sat up in the attic during a light rain; no
signs of water and looked at surrounding area plywood and 2x4's for
moisture and staining: none. No signs of water to be had.
Suggestions they've offered:
1. place diverters over vents;
2. Remove vents and replace by adding a less severe roof extension
from the rooftop to allow for covered, horizontal ventilation;
3. re-wrap HVAC piping and piping sleeves;
4. Cover siding vents--they are 1'x2' horizontal slat vents with no
screening or fan attachment;
Materiel used but does not resolve anything:
1. Standard silicone for roof shingling.
A: Of course its hard to solve
unknown leak locations from afar. But it sound like the windblown
rain is the cause -- likely coming through your vents. You also
could have defective underlayment. The underlayment is the item
which provides the waterproofing. It its perforated, this needs to
be repaired. The tiles over the top are to provide UV and mechanical
protection for the underlayment. Water will leak through tiles, and
its the underlayment job to carry it away. Seams in underlayment may
need to be sealed as well. Commonly, the underlayment curls up and
dries out around the flashings and valleys, or is not sealed well
against the flashings. This should be addressed. You may have to
remove all the roof tiles, and replace the entire underlayment and
reflash / reseal all the penetration areas. RoofSeal Black is a good
underlayment repair / reflashing product.
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=11337
Dormer vent jacks are recommended
for wind driven rain vents. They are applied under the vent, then
the vent is applied over it:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=10439
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=9843
Silicones are not recommended in
general roofing and waterproofing. They will not retain long term
adhesion and will contaminate surface for other materials.
Subject:
Expansion joint replacement
Date: May 21,
2009
Q: I have an expansion joint 2-1/4
inches wide and about 50 ft long. I think I need 3" closed cell
backer rod and Novalink SL. If I understand correctly the backer rod
needs to be set at a depth of 1".
Not sure how
much sealant is required?
A: In general, backer rod is set
to a depth of 1/2 the width, but most sealants should not be cast
thicker than 1/2 inch. So, you should set it to achieve about 1/2"
depth.
Technical Data Sheet:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/m1-structural-sealant-1090.html
To order product and more info:-
http://www.bestmaterials.com/SearchResult.aspx?categoryid=1151
How much sealant? See our
Estimating Guide.
Since you are about 2-1/4 x 1/2, you will use (dividing the 2-1/4 x
1/2 into two sizes):
1/2 x 1-1-4 = 1.4 ft / 10 oz tube = 50 ft /1.4 = 36 tubes
plus 1/4 x 1 = 6.4 / 2 (for 1/2 x 1) = 50 ft / 3.2 = 16 tubes
36 + 16 tubes = 52 tubes of 10 oz, which is 520 ounces total.
For 28 oz tubes you will need 520/28= 19 tubes, plus some extra for
waste, and miscalculation.
We are not responsible for accuracy of calculations. The above is an
example only.
Generally, its not recommended to fill the sealant all the way to
the top surface edge. Just below this is best to keep tire rub out
of the picture. Complete curing may take 2-3 days for this thick of
section.
Subject: Rolling
Tool for Dispensing Sealant
Date: May 20,
2009
Q: I am looking for a stand-up
rolling tool to dispense sealant for roadway work. What product would
you recommend, along with bulk loaders.
A:
Our largest ROLLING sealant application gun is the 720-G01, 2.5
quart. It is air powered. We special order these for customers.
Caulking Loaders: Here are some common ones:-
Subject: Best
Product for Gray Grout / Mortar Joints
Date: April 15,
2009
Q: I am looking for a product to
seal and water proof gray mortar joints between stone veneer and
between stone veneer and Millard Window frames. What product would
you recommend.
A: We suggest TX1, textured
sealant. Its available in popular colors, but the natural stone will
be very close to natural limestone/gray cement colored grout:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=11775
Subject: AES-450 Custom Color
Tinting
Date: April 13, 2009
Q:
Your sales literature says the above product is available in other
colors then white by special order. How does one do that and what is
the extra charge if any?
A:
For AES-140, AES-100 and AES-125 pretinted white a and gray are
available as standard.
But you can have the white
tinted by any Sherwin Williams paint center. Have them use EPOXY
grade tints.
Subject: Driving Rain and Chimney
Leaks
Date: April 13, 2009
Q:
We have a brick chimney which leaks during driving rains. What
clear product is available to seal it?
A:
Driving rain on
vertical stone walls and chimneys are commonly sealed with
Enviroseal 20 (2-coats):
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=16699
You can also re-flash the chimney
to roof area with metal faced flashing tape. One like this:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=16773
Subject: EPDM Roof Replacement
over old roof
Date: April 11, 2009
Q:
Can you install a new white rubber roof over an old rubber roof or
do you have to take the old roof off first?
A:
Yes, its possible to install new over old. The key thing to assure
before doing this is that the adhesion of the old roof is very
good. Repair as needed.
Installation of new EPDM membrane: 1. Clean AND prime the old EPDM
roof membrane. Use EPDM primer only:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/SearchResult.aspx?KeyWords=multipurpose%20primer
2. Use EPDM adhesive only:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/SearchResult.aspx?KeyWords=lc-60
or
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=16013
3. We recommend reinforcing with
a secondary EPDM coverstrip tape on all new seams and edge areas.
http://www.bestmaterials.com/SearchResult.aspx?KeyWords=coverstrip
Subject: Waterproofing System For
Parking Garages
Date: April 12, 2009
Q:
We own a large
property with a underground parking garage that has a parking lot
covering the top level. The upper level is 35+ years old and we
are planning to remove and redesign the entire Parking lot. We
plan on taking the top layer off to the Garage concrete deck. We
would like to cover the concrete (garage roof section) with a
waterproofing material before replacing the Parking lot. Can you
suggest the proper material and procedure for this project?
A:
This is a popular
waterproof, vehicular traffic grade waterproofing and deck
coating:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/PDF_Files/sgd_tdg.PDF
Follow, page 4, HEAVY-DUTY
TRAFFIC SYSTEM for the top and EXTRA-HEAVY DUTY SYSTEM for the
turning areas, such as ramps. Product details are here:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=14930
We can consult with you about the
preparation details and dealing with any cracks.
FYI, Concrete Repair Items are
here. There is a nice link to a parking garage repair article:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/Concrete-Repair.aspx
http://www.bestmaterials.com/Concrete-Repair.aspx#PARKING
Subject: Rubber Roof Coating
Date: April 08, 2009
Q:
What is the difference between the AES-100FR coating and the
AES-125FR coating,. I am looking for the best coating to put on my
RV rubber roof that is already there.
A:
The AES-100FR, is a product which has flame retardant which will
be active during the liquid stage. AES-125 is the same product
without the extra flame retardant, and its less expensive.
BOTH products are equally flame
retarded in the fully CURED stage.
RV Rubber Roof coating: This is a
great product for this coating. When coating EPDM roofs we have
found priming is needed with ALL coatings. Use EPDM primer:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/SearchResult.aspx?KeyWords=multipurpose%20primer
The AES products are epoxy based.
They are very durable. The bright white will turn somewhat
off-white after a period but stay dirt pick-up resistant (dirt
washes off easy). We find other coatings have problems with
chalking, running, wear-out from UV, collecting dirt and other
problems.
2 coats of AES is best for
getting even coverage. Less expensive but still good is the
Roofmate HT. It is a high tensile version. Its an acrylic and will
chalk somewhat long-term.
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=16573
Before coating, repair any seams.
Use Eternabond RoofSeal or Webseal.
http://www.bestmaterials.com/Eternabond.aspx
Subject: EPDM roofing material
and quantity estimation
Date: April 09, 2009
Q:
I want to get some pricing for an EPDM roofing "kit" for a
75 x 55 square ft roof.
A:
This materials estimator will help you figure out your exact
quantities:
http://www.weatherbondroofing.com/consumer/matest/materialestimator.aspx
From that estimate, add whatever
surplus you think you need and we can quote it and the freight, or
you can add these items to the shopping cart here, and freight
costs can be calculated during the checkout (UPS LTL FREIGHT
option).
http://www.bestmaterials.com/EPDM-Roofing.aspx
and
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=16226
View the bottom of the above link
for related accessories.
Subject: Solar Panel Mounting on
a Metal Roof
Date: April 07, 2009
Q:
I want to install solar collectors on a traditional metal roof. I
need to make 2 penetrations through the roof for the water lines-
one 3/4" copper and 1 1/2" copper. I am quite confused by the
variety of products you offer. I want best quality/longest life
materials since I never want to fool with this again!
A:
We recommend
silicone flashing boots. You have two options for each pipe size,
depending on your access to installing them (new or retrofit type
installation):
3/4" pipes:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=15001
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=16155
1-1/2" pipes:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=16555
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=16155
(the above is the same as used in
the 3/4" pipe. I would probable choose the 16155 item.
Subject: Slate Pool Deck Coating
Date: April 06, 2009
Q:
Do you have a product that would work as a clear coat over slate
next to a pool? If so would there be a non slip additive for it?
A:
Around the pool there is of course a lot of water, and its
absorbed by the surrounding materials. It then needs to evaporate
out. When you apply a gloss coating (almost any kind), it can trap
the moisture resulting in milky appearance in the coating. (this
is a particular problem with flagstone materials). Slate is
more dense, but we still cannot endorse this application.
There
are NON-glossy, breathable coatings which help with stain
resistance. Here are some to consider:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/SearchResult.aspx?CategoryID=1064
Always test your application.
Subject: polyester fabric types
Date: April 07, 2009
Q:
Which of your
products is woven polyester fabric? Could you tell me the spec of
it? D you also have non-woven fabric?
A:
We have both woven
and spun bond polyester fabrics. If you click on the links below
you can see sizes. Click on that and it will show detail page.
Detail page has specification or a link to data sheet (depending
on the product).
Firm
Face Polyesters, T326, Tietex
Soft
Face Polyester Fabrics,
T272, Tietex
Spun-Bond
Polyester Fabrics
Subject: Dirt Resistant Caulking /
Sealant
Date: March 04,
2009
Q: I need to
know if there is a caulk that will work for the windows and brick
pockets that will not attract dirt and turn an ugly brown in our dusty
West Texas climate. Everything I have ever used that I bought locally
becomes dirty and brown as the dust is drawn to it and adheres unless
there is at least two coats of paint covering the caulk soon after
application, which is not an option in this application. The caulk I
am hoping to find will close gaps between an off white brick to white
metal at the windows and white painted wood brick pockets to a tan
colored brick.
A: We have
tested MANY sealants for long term performance. We like to see how
they behave, regardless of the manufacturers claims. Definitely, all
will collect some degree of dirt and water spots, like windows and
areas at the bottom of them. The question is how easily do they clean
up, say with the squirt of a hose.
Our experience is that most common sealants,
including polyurethane and polyether, all look bad after a couple
years and, like windows, do not clean easily up without a good scrub
and some soapy cleaner (the hose by itself does not work). Also, many
window cleaners will deteriorate the bond of the sealant unless
cleaners are washed away from the joint areas.
The best performer we have seen is a specialty
high temperature silicone sealant. It attracts a LOT less dirt, and
cleans up nicely with a high pressure hose wash. I think the silicone
aspect of the chemistry resists dirt / cleans up better. As this
particular product is REALLY good. Its different than most silicones
in that its very strong (takes abrasive / scrubbing well), and has
better adhesion chemistry -- it will stick to most everything VERY
well. Here is a link to more information about this product:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=16896
The negative to silicone, is that PAINT does not
like to STAY stuck to it. It looks adhered at first, but later, paints
will come off. So, its important to pick a PRETINTED color silicone
sealant.
Subject: 6 AND 8" T-TOP ROOF VENTS
APPLICATIONS
Date: Wed, February 04, 2009
Q:
What is the height of the vents? Do they fit pitched 4/12 roofs?
A:
We have updated this product description to show the height (7-8
inches) and the application (to 4/112 pitch):
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=9885
There is also a screened top
option.
Subject:
Eternabond Installation Temperature
Date: Fri,
January 30, 2009
Q: What is the installation
temperature range of Eternabond Products?
A: Eternabond can be installed
down to 40F without any special preparation. Between -20F and +40F,
the addition of EternaPrime primer is recommended.
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=11025
Here is a link
to cold weather repair video using EternaPrime and Eternabond: Cold
Weather Repair
Cold Weather Repair
Subject: Leaking
Pitched Shingled Roof with Solar Panel
Date: Wed,
January 28, 2009
Q: I have an application where
solar panels are mounted to a sloped shingle roof. The panel legs
are fastened directly over the roof shingles. It is at these
locations that leaks occur as a result of the fasteners penetrating
the shingles and past inferior patching efforts. Do you offer a
Retrofit pipe flashing boot that will work with asphalt shingles?
A: Unfortunately, its common.
Properly, the Z clip should have had a LONG foot which went under /
between the shingles, and was attached, with a shingle covering it.
We have several options for you. If you can kindly take a photo and
send to us, we can better recommend the solutions (we need
dimensions of the item).
There are
several options. Briefly- 1. Remove screw / z clip and apply
doublestick sealant under the Z where it contacts the asphalt
shingle. Apply a bead of M1 sealant to screw shank and reattached.
Use ROOFING screws (with seal washers) if they are not already used.
Then run a bead of M1 around the screw for exta insurance.
Materials: http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=10440
http://www.bestmaterials.com/m1-structural-sealant-1090.html
http://www.bestmaterials.com/stainless-steel-metal-screws-washers-539.html
or
http://www.bestmaterials.com/SearchResult.aspx?KeyWords=evergrip
2. Skip the
first step above, applying M1 sealant all around the perimeter of
the Z clip. Do all the rest.
3. Use a closed
boot and cut a slit for the Z clip. Remove Z clip, slip boot over.
Follow #1 above, then finally attach boot over everything. If this
will work depends on the dimensions of the Z clip and surrounding
items.
Where pipes or
wires run through the roof, use the Retrofit boots and M1 or
silicone sealant:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/retrofit_pipe_flashing_boots.aspx
Subject: Roof Ventilator Mounting on a Metal Roof
Date: Wed, January 28, 2009
Q:
How do roof ventilator heads mount on a metal building roof with
ribbed roof panels? Do you sell the mountings and are they shaped to
conform with with the bends in the roof panel.
A:
This installation can be accomplished by either attached a flashing
base to the roof, and sealing both to the underlayment, and to the
metals panels, then attaching head.
OR building a curb base, sealing curb base to underlayment and metal
roof system, and attached head. You would do something similar,
flashing to the underlayment and again to the metal roof panels.
Alternatively, in a retrofit, you could cut the hold, attach base
with sealant and roofing screws, then apply a flashing system over
this. This could be a secondary EPDM Rubber boot like one of these:
Or you could apply flashing tape, such as this (which can be used
if sealing base to the underlayment as well:
In general, you want to create a dual-seal system.
You may wish to consider the solar fans, so that you have less
penetrations / installations to do. You may save a lot in
installation, paying for the cost of the better ventilation. These
are nice:
AV-18 Items are here:
AV-24 are here:
Do not forget to create good AIR INTAKE for the exhaust fans.
Subject: Basement Waterproofing in new construction
Date: Wed, December 03, 2008
Q:
I am looking to purchase a waterproofing system for custom home I am
building in the Spring. What products would you recommend for a
10' tall Insulated Concrete Form wall. I was thinking of a
waterproof membrane rolled down vertically, with a drain mat on top
of that, and two drains outside of that.
A:
We suggest to consider these items for that approach:
Or
Be sure and waterproof all the way down and over the footing, and
caulk joints first with a good sealant. Novalink is compatible with
the HLM5000 materials:
Drains: a perforated french drain buried in drainage rock etc.,
along the footing area is good practive.
Other good practices are grading the top soil away from the house
and good drainage away from the house of gutters and downspouts.
Subject: EPDM Cold Weather Repair
Date: Tue, December 02, 2008
Q:
I'm a contractor who has been asked to fix a loose "seam" where the
epdm has been stretched over the end of the roof on to a masonry
ledge (block wall ... block cap) overlapping the ledge (used as drip
edge - at the edge of the roof it does a 90 down approx. 3"). The
inside would be the masonry and the outside would be the EPDM.
The approx.
outside working temp will range from 20 to 30 degrees. What repair
do you recommend?
A:
We suggest 2" wide
Eternabond DOUBLESTICK together with EternPrime for this cold
weather EPDM seam repair. Here are links to more information about
these items and application:
Cold Weather Repair Video:
Subject: Cold room caulking for concrete floor cuts
Date: Thu, November 14, 2008
Q: Please send a suggestion for caulking for a cold room condition with temperature of 34 to 36 degrees Fahrenheit. We have saw cuts 1/8" wide and ¾" deep in the concrete floor and the walls are pre finished panels with premium ceramic, polyester coating. We have forklift traffic in this area. The materials will be applied during construction phase (not cold).
A: For sealing and protecting saw cut concrete joints from traffic damage, two products are commonly used:
Epolith: Data Sheet:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/PDF_Files/epg_tdg.pdf
About $112 / gallon, has 75% elongation, 655 psi tensile, 85 shore A hardness and is a 2-part epoxy, formulated for filling saw-cut joints in concrete floors. Provides a puncture and abrasion resistant seal.
TF-100: Data Sheet:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/PDF_Files/scj_tdg.pdf
About $427 / gallon, has 470% elongation, 1975 psi tensile, 85-90 shore A hardness and is a 2-component polyurea, formulated for filling saw-cut joints in concrete floors. Provides a high load seal to resist forklift and hard wheel traffic. Also works well to fill random cracks.
TF-100 is much more expensive (50%), and requires a special 2-part mixing caulk gun.
Carefully read the product data sheets to study application.
Alternatively you could use an expansion joint filler, but this is not designed to protect saw cuts from hard wheeled traffic.
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=16205
Subject: Deck repair for ponding
water problem.
Date: Wed, November 05, 2008
Q:
I have a large plywood deck over living space that is finished with a urethane deck system. Over time there has been some settlement creating a minor pond area. Can I use the Sonoguard Self Leveling Base material to fill this area, and then apply a new urethane coating to the whole deck? Also, over time some small shallow dents have appeared, approximately 1/4" dia. X 8/8" deep. What caulk or filler do I use prior to re-coating the deck.
A: You are on the right track in looking at fixing the ponding water problem. The cause of the settlement of your deck should be carefully investigated (rotted wood/ inadequate support structure or ?). Also, the root cause of cracks should be looked into. These are generally, framing related or incorrectly built decking (nailed not screwed, no use of tongue-groove plywood, use of particle board rather than exterior grade plywood, etc). Generally, cracked seams are ground down to expose the wood, screws added in the needed areas, then reinforced with glass mesh embedded in a base coat stripe. We cannot help you with these structural issues.
Ponding water areas can be filled with these materials:
for thicker sections:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=10685
Applied in build-up layers (easier to use)
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=11647
Cracked Seams are repaired with these materials: Bridge all deep field cracks, joints and flashing areas by apply 4" white fiberglass 20x20 mesh tape embedded in Sonoguard basecoat or NP1 sealant. Use a 3-course process to hide seams. This is much like taping a drywall joint wherein you taper joint to adjacent surfaces. Sonoguard basecoat:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=14930
NP1 Product Info
Fiberglass Webbing Info
You can use the NP1 as a filler for the small dents prior to basecoat. Sonoguard system (base and topcoat both needed):
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=14930 Note: ALL traces of silicone sealants must be removed before doing any work. Then follow the general procedures for wood based decks:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/deck_coatings.aspx#Wood%20Based%20Deck%20Repairs
Subject: AC roof penetrations retro fit
Date: Sun, November 09, 2008
Q: The “AC FLASHING BOOT SYSTEM, 3-PIPE, ROUND BASE” page
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=16331 mentions the availability of other top seal options. I will be adding new seals to an installation where the owner, in a burst of DIY enthusiasm, ran gas lines for four AC units through a "tar pot" on a flat roof. Since he left the tube insulation in place and didn’t bother with drip loops or a weather shield of any kind, he created a very nice funnel with which to decorate interior ceilings and walls. The lines come in from three directions and have very little slack for repositioning. The electrical feeds are all in EMT and don’t seem to be a problem as yet but will be under a new cover with seals to make sure that the “funnel” will not develop another water source. What top seal configurations are available for pipe/tubing and are they available for purchase without a base?
A:
You may wish to consider CHEMCURBS. These are round dams which are filled with sealant to seal around multiple pipes or irregular shapes. One like this:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=16749 Here are some more options:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/SearchResult.aspx?CategoryID=749 and
http://www.bestmaterials.com/searchresult.aspx?categoryid=1170
Subject: Very Large Size Retrofit Pipe Flashing Boots
Date: Wed, November 05, 2008
Q: I would like to get more information on the retrofit pipe flashing boots. We are looking for an outside application for piping from 2" up to 24" diameter. Is this something that you carry or can be manufactured?
A: For pipes from 1/8 to 16-1/4 inch in diameter, you use a regular retrofit pipe flashing boot:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/retrofit_pipe_flashing_boots.aspx
For larger pipes, you take two boots, cut them up the side. Then apply each boot, with the second one overlapping the first like two inverted C's. Use high-temp/high strength silicone sealant to seal the gap and the two boots together. For 24" pipes, you use two of these:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=14996
Subject: Butyl tape for seams on galvalume steel buildings
Date: Mon, November 03, 2008
Q: I am building some steel span buildings and would like to get some butyl tape. What do you recommend (I saw the mb10 a type would be good).
A:
The Butyl tape we sell is the most popular product for sealing seams in metal building roofs. This size is mostly used:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=8984
Other popular metal roofing items include:
Roofing screws with sealing washers:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/sheet-metal-screws-sealing-washers-545.html
http://www.bestmaterials.com/SearchResult.aspx?CategoryID=843
Pipe Flashings:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/masterflash_sizes_and_materials.aspx
Subject: roof jack gas pipe venting question please
Date: Mon, November 03, 2008
Q: I am re-roofing a shed with a 5" gas vent pipe coming through the roof, and using corrugated steel panels. My vent collar is a flat metal piece attached to the pipe. I need something that will make a seal / transition to the corrugated roofing.
A:
To seal this area, you use a High Temperature Silicone Boot. Carefully measure your pipe diameter. Pick the boot which has this size as the minimum.
Like this one:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=15602
Of course, your pipe needs to be mounted to provide clearance, as per manufacturers recommendations. Here is a link to additional information on hot pipe / gas venting installation:
Hot Pipe - Gas Pipe Venting
Subject: Pipe Boot for Firestone TPO Membrane
Date: Fri, October 31, 2008
Q: Do you guys sell a pipe boot that will adhere to a 045 Firestone TPO membrane?
A: Commonly our EPDM pipe boots are used, and sealed with M-1 sealant which is applied over a surface primed with TPO Primer. Here are links to these items:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/m1-structural-sealant-1090.html
Datasheet:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/pdf_files/m1-sealant.pdf
Pipe flashings:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/masterflash_sizes_and_materials.aspx
Pipe Flashing Boots in WHITE:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/SearchResult.aspx?categoryid=1175
We also have prefabricated TPO weldable boots as well, if interested let us know which ones and how many and we can get a quote for you.
http://www.flashcomfg.com/downloads/singleply-all.pdf
Subject: LOOKING TO FIREPROOF ROOF
Date: Sun, November 02, 2008
Q: I have a 5,000 sq ft flat tar roof. I would like to find a fire proof material to lay on top which will waterproof and protect or slow down fire, as much as possible. Do you have or can you recommend such material?
A: This product has a UL fire rating:
Apply this over a basecoat of
On top of the final coating you could apply a loose layer of roofing granules for further protection:
Subject: Tilt Wall Caulk Recommendation
Date: Tue, October 30, 2008
Q: What would I use to re-caulk expansion joints on a concrete tilt wall construction?
A:
We used NP1 and Sonolastic 150 on our building when we repainted it a few years back:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/contact.aspx
The Sonolastic 150 was used in the corner joints (which have a lot of movement), and NP1 in the others. We installed it over new soft or closed cell backer rod. We also used the NP1 to patch minor cracks in the walls. Here is a link to these items
http://www.bestmaterials.com/Backer_Rod.aspx
http://www.bestmaterials.com/SearchResult.aspx?CategoryID=1066
http://www.bestmaterials.com/SearchResult.aspx?CategoryID=1067
Subject: Backer rod/sealant for sloped surfaces
Date: Wed, October 29, 2008
Q: We are going to be using closed cell backer rod to fill an expansion joint. We want to use the self-leveling sealant, but I was wondering if this will work if placed on a slope. The expansion joint is sloped at 6-1, so I want to make sure we can use the self-leveling sealant at this slope.
A:
The self leveling product will definitely have a problem. BASF also offers SL1 in a SLOPE GRADE. But even the 6:1 slope grade is too much for this slope. I suggest you consider regular Novalink which will cure pretty quick and give you the same properties.
http://www.bestmaterials.com/SearchResult.aspx?categoryid=1158
Subject: EPDM tape adhesion to wood
Date: Sun, October 28, 2008
Q: WILL WHITE EPDM COVERSTRIP TAPE, 6 INCH WIDE (per foot)
EPDM-309813-1 adhere to wood?
A:
Yes, this will stick very well to wood (dry wood).
Subject: RE: RV Roof--Aluminum
Date: Mon, Oct 27, 2008
Q: The roof is an RV metal roof--there is foot traffic for maintenance purposes. It is a very old RV and there are low places on the roof where water tends to pool. The seams are crimped channel with lap sealant and a thick fibrous tape like overlay from what I can tell. There are other roof penetrations with either screws or rivets and a fairly thick sealant over that. I cannot tell what type of product is on there now--I have removed all the loose product and scrubbed the surface with a mild water and greased lightening product (soapy degreaser) and rinsed it as best I could without saturating the roof. It has leaked in the past and I am sure still will until a good topping is put over the entire roof with special attention to the seams and penetrations.
A: We recommend you review this metal roof guide. It will give you a good general sense of what to do:
Before coating, seal any cracked areas with a good sealant such as M1:
RoofMate Coating can be found here:
Subject: Driveway Expansion Joints product inquiry
Date: Tue, Sep 23, 2008
Q:
I am looking for a product to fill the expansion joints on my driveway. The gaps are approximately 3/4" wide, tapering narrower at the bottom. Approximate depth up to 3/4". I would like something that is self-leveling if possible. I have about 400 lineal feet to fill. Can you recommend one of your products? I had a recommendation to use Sonneborn SL1. I saw the SL1 in 28 oz caulk tube, or 2 gallon pail. How would I apply it if I went with the pail? - From the information on your website, it looks like I would need a backer rod. Which one would be the best to use?
A: We suggest the 28 oz. tubes. They are MUCH easier to dispense.
We also suggest Novalink SL, because it cures quickly, and handles joints up to 2" wide.
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=16205
Apply with this tool:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=14785
If you choose a pail, you can apply with a plant watering container with a fine spout.
Quantity: Each 28 oz tube will yield about 16 feet of 3/4 wide x 3/8 deep joint area. So you will need 25 tubes, plus a few extra. Closed Cell backer rod would be best for a ground application:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/Backer_Rod.aspx
Subject: water proofing an existing basement with bad walls
Date: Sept 15, 2008
Q:
I
live in a house that was built in 1950's and it has poorly mixed concrete foundation. I've done the dry lock thing but water finds other areas to come in . i drilled where the cracks are and some times it's only 4" I hit dirt outside so then I put the stop leak concrete in it .Do you a product for my problem before i dig up out side and tackle it .
A:
We suggest you consider Thoroseal cementitious waterproofing
Subject: water proofing a basement
Date: Thu, Aug 14, 2008 4:00 pm
Q:
I have a old house on a stone walled basement. It has mortar between it joints. Houses was expanded on may years back with a block. I have just dug up around house and am installing a drywell system. I would like to seal the walls to keep moisture out, if possible.
A:
Here is some information on basement waterproofing:
Waterproofing an existing basement is a complex project with many options. Since we can't be there to see first hand the leak areas, construction, hill terrain, soil, exterior landscape and exterior drainage systems, we can only provide generalized answers. Also, budget, skills of repair person, how permanent of fix you want, odor during repairs and interior decorating issues affects the options.
First, there is no permanent 100% waterproof system which can be applied from the inside. The problem in some cases is that the concrete is a sponge, absorbs water and causes corrosion of the reinforcement bars and steel. This is turn results in fracture and decomposition of the concrete and long term failure.
The prevention is to dig around the outside down to the foundation footing and apply waterproof layers and joint sealants to the outside, preventing the water from getting into the concrete and joints. The floor is more difficult. It must be torn up, have waterproofing membranes laid down, then re-poured on top of this. All of which is WAY too expensive in most cases.
What can be done to greatly extend the life of and existing basement, and get rid of the water and moisture?
EXTERIOR:
PHASE 1:
Trench against the wall down to the footing. Lay a French drain in gravel, cover top with silt screen.
Apply sealant to the foundation to wall interface as needed. Water proof coat both the footing and foundation wall with a product like
or a cementitious coating:
Backfill carefully so as not to puncture the waterproofing.
PHASE 2 (Optional)
1. Grade the soil outside the high sides of the house to slope away from the house at least 20 feet.
2. Along the newly graded slope area, at least at the bottom end of the slope, bury perforated drain pipe covered with stainless screen into a 1 foot wide x 2 foot deep rock/gravel trench. The "French drain" pipe will collect much of the water and drain it away from the house.
3. Bury a heavy duty waterproofing membrane at least 10 feet wide, down in the topsoil of the graded area. Connect and seal the waterproofing membrane to the foundation of the house up above the top of the soil line.
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=14960
4. Option: Refill soil area with CLAY soil, which is not so water absorbant.
5. Apply roof gutters to the house. Then have the downspouts connect to drain pipes which take the water well away from the house, and below the foundation grade.
The above actions will get rid of MUCH of the water, but not all. Depending on the soil, rain, water table and melting snow, the soil can still become saturated, and these actions may be less effective. But in many situations, this works quite well.
INTERIOR PHASE 1:
1. Strip down the basement walls and floors. Remove all existing sealants and caulks.
2. Power wash or sandblast / bead-blast the surfaces.
3. Allow to thoroughly dry (use fans and such as needed). This could take a couple weeks.
4. Prime all concrete surfaces joints and cracks using penetrating waterproofing primer, such as:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=9358
or
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=15025
5. Repair all cracks and decomposed concrete. This is a whole topic on its own we can cover later.
But if you are using the Aquaseal product, you prepare as follows:
All shrinkage and non-moving structural cracks under 1/16" shall be primed then pretreated with not less than a 30 wet mil coating of HLM 5000 http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=15620 or Polycoat-Aquaseal® 5000 or extending 3" on either side of the crack. Bridge the joints, cracks, and flashing's with 4" (10 cm) Straight Jacket Tape, pushing it into HLM 5000 / Polycoat-Aquaseal® 5000 with a trowel. Over the reinforcement tape apply a stripe coat of Polycoat-Aquaseal® 5000 and smooth onto adjacent surface. All cracks over 1/16", moving structural cracks and cold joints, shall be routed to 1/4" wide by 1/4" deep, the area should be primed, a joint backing shall be inserted and the void sealed with an appropriate polyurethane sealant. ALTERNATIVELY use a product such as THOROSEAL cementitious waterproofing.
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=16580
6. Use proper SEALANT on the joints and cracks:
Floor joints:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=11161
Wall, Corner Joints and cracks:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=15150
7. Install adequate permanent basement ventilation, if it does not already exist.
INTERIOR PHASE 2.
Roll on HLM 5000 or AQUASEAL polyurethane waterproofing materials. 2 coat minimum. Some odor (stronger than paint). Messy to apply. Requires respirator, depending on your basement and ventilation. Cures to a medium gray color. Paint-able. This is kind of a truck-bed liner material. Dries to a very tough surface slightly textured.
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=11185
or alternatively, use a cementitious product:
RE: wood deck coating / waterproofing
Date: Fri, Aug 08, 2008
Q: I have an outdoor wood deck and was wondering what product you recommend for long wear. We live in NY, so it is a cold climate and we have dogs that regularly are on the deck. The deck is not new. Another web site recommended Rhino Top.
A: For wood deck which is over living space, Rhino Top is not recommended as it is not a waterproofing product (although it has great wear characteristics). Polyurethane deck finishes are the toughest waterproofing deck coatings on the market (variation of spray on truck bed liners). For first time applicators, the Sonoguard system is the easiest:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=14930
Follow this general outline for waterproofing most wood decks:
wood based decks
RE: Concrete Expansion Joint Sealing / Repair Question
Date: Fri, Aug 08, 2008
Q: I am a homeowner and find your website very helpful (much more helpful than anybody in the the home centers in my area!), and I think you carry the products I need but I want to run it by you first before ordering. I have some areas of the house where a horizontal piece of concrete meets a vertical piece of concrete (ex. concrete walkway that butts up against the concrete foundation or a concrete step). This joint has a gap, ranging in size from 1/4" to 1-1/8". This sealant is crumbling away and is no longer doing it's job; plus it looks bad. What do I need to repair this? I believe I need to remove the old sealant and stuff the joint with backer rod, and then use some sort of sealant on top of that. I obviously want to seal the crack to prevent further damage, but I also desire a nice, clean, smooth look when I'm done
A: The concrete joints you have are treated as EXPANSION JOINTS. You are on the right track for the waterproofing of this (backer rod + sealant). The 100 % horizontal joints are filled with backer rod, then self leveling sealant is applied over it. The vertical / corner joints are filled with backer rod then caulked with vertical grade sealant and tooled to finish the joint nicely. Since most of yours are vertical / corner types, I would recommend you consider this product for all the areas:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=16221
The best backer rod for your application is CLOSED CELL. Pick a size 25 to 50 % greater than the gap.
http://www.bestmaterials.com/Backer_Rod.aspx
RE: Ponding Water
Date: Thu, Aug 07, 2008
Q: I have a 8 year old EPDM roof that does have ponded water. I would like to use your Formflex 6000 roof coating. The other problem I have is that the roof leaks in the Winter if I have Ice coating with Snow on top. Your suggestions.
A:
The root CAUSE of the ponding water area needs to be considered first. Possible causes: roof leak resulting in bowed substrates, insulation, decking, or framing; other structural problems; settling of building; or excessive snow load causing bowing and accumulation of water during the snow load. If you let us know what you suspect the causes are, how deep and the size of the ponding areas, we can advise further. I would call out a roofer to give you a repair estimate and see what they have to say. As to coatings, you should also consider the ROOFMATE HT as a topcoat. Its more durable. Use a primer on the EPDM first.
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=16573
EPDM PRIMER:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=16014
SEAM REPAIRS: Use either Eternabond tape, or primer + EPDM Cover Tape:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=11341
or this with primer (its more durable than the Eternabond):
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=16016
RE: Rhino Top Coating for Pool Deck
Date: Wed, Aug 06, 2008
Q: I am looking to re-coat my existing cool deck in a new color. Does the entire deck area need to be primed with the Uni-Tile Sealer first? Do you sell a product that would simulate the texture (knock down) of the existing cool deck. I added two patio areas recently that are bare concrete.
A:
Priming is recommended for all areas to be coated. It is the key to great long-term adhesion.
The textured Rhino-Top, if applied over all areas (existing knock-down cool deck AND bare concrete), will have a somewhat uniform look, but not exact. We have a test area done outside our warehouse you can look at to see what its like. Most colors are shipped by the factory for each order. Standard colors are quick to get. Custom colors take several days. More info is here:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=15024
RE: Pipe Flashing for Solar Panels
Date: Mon, August 04, 2008
Q: I am mounting solar panels on a regular asphalt shingle roof with a pitch of 5/12. I am using standard 3/4" i.d. copper tubing. I need a flashing that will stand temperatures of 220 degrees F on a regular basis, with the possibility of temperatures up to 300 once in a while. What do you recommend? How much is it? And how do I get it?
A: There are two options for you, depending on when / how you wish to install.
Number 1 is the best:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=16616
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=15001
If you need a retrofit type, then these are the options:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=16151
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=14993
Sealants: A generous bead of M1 sealant is also advisable.
RE: Deck Re-Coating Project
Date: Sat, Jul 12, 2008
Q: I would like to try your product on a clients deck, there is an existing deck coating however, it appears as though the last contractor attempted to put a thin layer of color over an intact membrane but the thin layer has failed. My questions are, 1.) should we remove the entire thin layer before introducing your product? 2.)We will be pressure washing (3000 p.s.i.) to remove all loose and peeling substances. If we need to remove all of it, how would you recommend we do this to avoid damaging the membrane underneath? and 3.) Will we need the self leveling base coat over the entire deck surface?
A:
I believe you are referring to our polyurethane type walk-deck waterproofing / coating systems.
To recoat an existing deck with another polyurethane type system (NOT ASPHALTIC) you generally do this (assuming the base system does not leak and has no cracks):
1. Powerwash with a HIGH PRESSURE washer to remove old coating & allow to dry. The integrity of a new coating will only be as good as the foundation, so it needs to be sound. 2. Prime. 3. Coat using one to two coats of topcoat as per specification.
Two popular systems for this are:
SONOGUARD:
primer:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=15551
topcoats:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/SearchResult.aspx?KeyWords=sg-topcoat
POLYCOAT:
primer
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=9358
Topcoat:
(tan shown)
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=11676
RE: Gable vent dimensions
Date: Fri, Jul 11, 2008
Q: I am looking for a gable vent to fit a 18.25 x 18.25 rough opening . Is the 18 x18 vent plus the flange or 18 x18 overall?
A: For an 18x18 Standard Mount gable vent, such as this one:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=9312
The key dimensions of our gable vents are:
Overall outside face to face: 19 x 19 inches
Opening needed in wall: 18 x 18 (nominal rough opening)
Inside Recess / Louver Area width: 17.5 x 17.5 inches
Distance from Outside Flange Edge to Recess/Louver area: 3/4 inch all around
Flange Outer Face Width: 1.5 inch
RE: Basement Wall Waterproofing
Date: Wed, Jul 09, 2008 11:57 am
Q: We are looking for a product that will provide waterproofing on the interior of a below grade stone wall? See the attached photos showing discoloration of a stone where a small amount of water is penetrating an existing wall on the campus of the University of M.
A: We reviewed your application with the tech people from BASF, and they suggest the following:
1. Remove all furring strips from the wall.
2. Power wash, let dry.
3. Apply two coats of ThoroSeal with Acryl 60 additive, as per instructions.
Here are links to these items and data sheets:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=15871
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=15182
http://www.bestmaterials.com/PDF_files/ac6_tdg.pdf
http://www.bestmaterials.com/PDF_files/tsl_tdg.pdf
This should provide the negative side waterproofing you are seeking.
RE: Elastomeric Plus RhinoTop.
Date: Mon, Jul 07, 2008 1:42 pm
Q: Could I seal the cracks as you have instructed at
http://www.bestmaterials.com/deck_coatings.aspx but instead of Sonoguard use Rhinotop to cover. I understand that Rhinotop does not waterproof the surface but if it will make the surface somewhat water resistant and permit walking then it should work fine. You see, though this is a roof deck, it is sloped and since 1984 when it was built it has never been sealed with anything. However, due to acid rain or just plain weathering it has some pocks and cracks in which, on really wet periods, eg. hurricanes, tropical storms etc...we will get a drop or two of water seeping through discoloring the ceiling of the upstairs.
A:
This set of applications for waterproofing a concrete roof. It uses RoofMate Elastomeric coating, followed by Rhino-Top for traffic areas. The spec is very comprehensive. United Coatings does good work in this area and RhinoTop is excellent product:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/PDF_Files/RoofMate-concrete.pdf
See page 4, section H.= "To provide a non-skid walk path on roofs subject to heavy foot traffic, demarcate walkways by applying an additional coat of ROOF MATE, using a medium-nap roller or airless spray, at the rate of 1 gallon per 100 sq. ft. (.4 l/m²) along the designated traffic area. While the coating is still wet, broadcast 3M #11 ceramic roofing granules to the point of refusal. UNITED COATINGS' Rhino Top, a non-skid colored acrylic topping.
The RoofMate and RhinoTop will be a lot less expensive than a Sonoguard coating. RoofMate Elastomeric coating is here:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/elastomeric-roof-coatings-855.html
RE: Gas vs Electric
Hot Air Welders
Date: Tue, Jul 01, 2008 2:11 pm
Q: How does Hot Air Welder such Sievert TH1650 Or Leister Variamt compare to the PNS-4 with the #3334 hot air tip for heat output? One is rated degrees, cfm, watts; the other in BTU.
I am familiar with electric heat guns and have used many over the years. I would like to know what to expect from a propane unit. What is the temperature at the nozzle of the propane unit?
A: We checked with tech support at Sievert. They provided the following information: The propane hot air kit (PNS-4) uses the 3334-90 Promatic Hot Air burner. The heat temperature at the nozzle is 1,200 degrees Fahrenheit. The BTU reference on the burners really refers to the amount of propane consumed. The TH-1650 will produce temperatures between 70 - 1,100 degress Fahrenheit.
What can you expect with the propane unit?
1) The electric hot air gun has a variable speed fan. The propane burner will not have as much air flow but will be constant, and more stable.
2) The electric hot air guns need time to get up to temp, and a cool down period to protect the heating elements. The propane unit has instant heat, and will not need a cool down period, as you can start & stop at will.
3) The PNS-4 Kit is much more portable, and of course does not need electricity.
FYI, here is a link to types of propane torches available:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/propane-torche-870.html
RE: Repair of Terra Cotta Roof Tiles
Date: Sat, Jun 28, 2008 1:58 pm
Q: I am restoring a historic building with a facade of terra cotta. Many pieces are damaged and need to be reassembled using a very strong but hopefully flexible adhesive. We were thinking that a strong adhesive long life urethane caulk like Vulkam or Sonneborn might work. Do you have any recommendations?
A: We have tested several products for this application. We can recommend these two:
Np1- Redwood Tan Color
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=10994
Color Link (actual color will fade a bit, and as a repair item, will look VERY natural.
http://www.colorcharts.org/ccorg/resources/colors.aspx?companyid=124549&lineid=635&cbn=TY09-DWMK-TUB9
Novalink - Terra Cotta Color http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=16330 Link to Data Sheet and Color:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/images/NovaLink_tech0503.pdf
Both are very good. The Novalink will last longer in very hot climates.
For the repair, lightly clean the sufaces to be bonded with a wire brush. Remove dust. Apply sealant liberally. Don't set pieces too tightly together -- a bit thicker bondline is better. Also apply underneath the small pieces, so they bond to the underlying tiles. From the ground, the repairs will be invisible.
RE: Sonoguard Recoating
Date: Fri, Jun 27, 2008 10:37 am
Q: In 2002 I had the front porch of my house (approx 9 sq mtrs)
waterproofed using Sonoguard over an exterior ply surface. The
membrane has silica in it creating a non-slip surface and is still in
good service order, other than some discolouration due to weathering.
I would like to renew its appearance and change the colour. What
products can be used to achieve my aim? Do I have to re-apply a
Sonoguard product or is there a paint product that will adhere and be
hardwearing (foot traffic) such as concrete paints etc???
A: The Sonoguard system is very easy to recoat.
An outline of the process is:
1. Clean (power wash, or use bleach / tsp and water and scrub well with a stiff bristle broom then rinse well. let dry thoroughly).
2. Inspect for any needed repairs (Cracks).
3. Prime or activate surface. You can use Xylene and lightly wipe with rags, or prime. Many thoroughly cleaned surfaces required neither. This is an applicator judgment. Xylene is flammable and hazardous. Proper safety is required. DO NOT USE ALCOHOL based products in cleaning of substrate or your tools.
4. Apply Topcoat. Be careful not apply too thick. Two thin coats are better than one thick coat. Usually, one new topcoat is enough.
Here is a link to TAN Topcoat. On this page is a link to the TECHNICAL DATA SHEET, which has more detailed info:
RE: EPDM Roofing for Trailer
Date: Fri, Jun 27, 2008 9:35 am
Q: We would like to know if we can use EPDM roofing membrane for our trailer roof:
Trailer - Golden Falcon with rubber roof - purchased 1996.Your EPDM is white color - 60 mils thick and 10 foot wide roll. Could you please let us know if we can use this type on our trailer?
A: EPDM roofing can be used over most any existing roof. The product is adhered. There is adhesive in both water based and solvent based types, to be compatible with various substrates. The 60 mil thick white EPDM is a heavy-gauge, durable product and quite suitable for all climates and situations.Here is a link to the pricing by foot product for more info (see all the info down this page):
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=15884
We also have recoat products. These of course are not as good as a whole new roof, but can be good for a few years or until the timing for a new roof is right.
RE: BAK WELDER FOR TARPS
Date: Fri, Jun 27, 2008 9:07 am
Q: We use 220/240V electricity and the main purpose of these machines will be to weld tarpaulin in the industrial sector. Please furnish me with as much possible information, keeping in mind that we are not the end users but suppliers of stitching machines.
A: The Bak Laron is a nearly identical copy of the Leister Varimat (even many interchangeable parts).
Here are the product details:
We would ship these in the storage box noted. Its very durable.
Shipping: It can be by air, VERY EXPENSIVE, or ocean (about $500 estimate). Or we can ship to your exporter in the US, and you can handle shipping (PREFERRED METHOD). You may also wish to consider this product designed for tarps:
RE: EPDM VS. TPO MEMBRANE
Date: Thu, Jun 26, 2008 1:57 pm
Q: I WOULD LIKE TO KNOW THE DIFFERENCE IN THE EPDM MEMBRANE FROM THE TPO MEMBRANE. ARE THEY COMPARABLE IN PERFORMANCE? DO THEY HANDLE THE SAME TYPE OF JOBS?
A: EPDM Benefits: Easy to bend and form, outstanding cold weather resistance / flexibility, good hail resistance, easy to apply, can take a lot of movement (like in a RV motorhome). No special equipment is needed for application (welders, generators). Also a good product for pond liners, patios. Easy to repair. TPO Benefits: Less expensive on very large jobs (Walmart sized). Requires welded seams (hot air welder & generator) and special pieces for inside/outside corners. Cannot be easily bent around curved surfaces. Penetrations are more complicated to finish.
Many years ago, EPDM had some seam problems. Today's best practice creates much stronger seams than the EPDM material itself. (primer, apply Doublestick sealant to seams, overlay coverstrip on outside of seam).
We recommend EPDM for most application, except for large commercial ones, where the applicators are skilled and trained in welding.
EPDM Link
http://www.bestmaterials.com/EPDM-Roofing.aspx
TPO Link:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/Single-Ply-Roofing.aspx
RE: Sealing an A/C Mounting on Foam Roof
Date: Thu, Jun 26, 2008 10:28 am
Q: I had to have a new roof mounted air conditioner added to an office with a flat, foam roof of a building that is only about 2 years old. The HVAC guys made the roof penetration and set the unit in but they do not do the repair. I was going to call a roofer to repair but thought that I'd ask if you sell the items to do the repair and what the level of techinical difficulty would be.
A: We are not certain of the type of repair needed. If you can send a digital photo we can probably advise you better.
Generally, these items are used:-
http://www.bestmaterials.com/SearchResult.aspx?categoryid=1170
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=9149
http://www.bestmaterials.com/SearchResult.aspx?CategoryID=1067
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=16022
These are not hard to use.
RE: Glacier Snow Guard placement question
Date: Wed, Jun 25, 2008 12:58 pm
Q: Hello. How do I determine the layout and the number of SnowGuards needed for a steel roof with the following specifications? Thanks!!!
A: You can reach Technical Support for Glacier at 1-866-766-9427
They should be able to walk you through the estimates.
Snow loads are very unpredictable. We like to recommend you put on 3 rows deep in the areas you know to be a problem, using the ADHESIVE ONLY method. Then review your roof after a winter and see if you lost any (snow load exceeded snow guard capacity). Then add 2 more rows in these areas.
The benefit if the ADHESIVE only method, is if they are ripped off by excessive load for the number there, no roof leaks result.
Another option is the clamp on types. Berger provides a free design and layout service:
http://www.bergerbuildingproducts.com/services.html
You can order their items here:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/snow_guards.aspx
RE: Sealants
Date: Wed, June 25, 2008 8:36 am
Q: I've been looking at your website and find it very informative. I'm a do it yourself man on a limited income. I'm looking for a sealer. The pvc pipe that drains into my septic tank leaks around the hole where it goes through the concrete. What type of sealant should I use?
A: We suggest the Sonolastic 150 VLM. Its the toughes most corrosion resistant product.
Before application, thoroughly clean surfaces till you have fresh surfaces, let dry, and prime.
As needed, stuff backer rod into the gap. See the backer rod page for instructions: BACKER ROD INSTRUCTIONS
http://www.bestmaterials.com/Backer_Rod.aspx
Backer Rod, by the Foot:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/SearchResult.aspx?categoryid=1194
Optional Cleaner: Eternaclean (or use Toluene)
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=15748
Primer: PRIMER-2000.
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=15803
Sealant:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/SearchResult.aspx?CategoryID=1067
RE: Bulk Load Expansion Joint Sealant for Driveway
Date: Tue, June 24, 2008 10:07 am
Q: I want to replace the expansion joint in my driveway. Can you tell me how the 2 gallon bulk sealant is applied and what the coverage is?
A: The products designed for concrete expansion joint sealant are "Self Leveling Sealants". There are several types. I like the Novalink SL best, as it will seal joint up to 2" of width, is pretinted, single component and quick curing. Here is a link:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/SearchResult.aspx?categoryid=1151
Before applying, you clean the joint, add backer rod, tape outside top edges if desired (to form a straight seal line along the top) and apply sealant. Remove tape as soon as materials start to set.
Here is a link to the backer rod: You should use CLOSED CELL type of backer rod. Set backer rod to a depth of 1/2 the average width of the joint near the top.
http://www.bestmaterials.com/Backer_Rod.aspx
Joint cleaning can be done with wire brush or other power tools. Professional applicator use grinding blades like these:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/SearchResult.aspx?categoryid=1180
APPLICATION OF BULK SEALANT USING A BULK LOAD GUN:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=15788
We REALLY recommend QUART tubes for those not experienced with bulk load equipment.
Amount of sealant depends on joint dimensions. Here is a guide:
Estimating Guide .
Do a small test area first to practice your technique. Feel free to Email with any questions or problems.
RE: POOL DECK JOINT REPAIR
Date: Tue, June 24, 2008 10:59 am
Q: I am starting to re-do the faded concrete walkway around my swimming pool but first I need to deal with the cracked and degraded caulking seam between the flat rock surface next to the pool and the textured concrete walking surface. I plan to remove the old caulking by cutting it out with a sharp knife and replacing it with ???either before or after I recolor the concrete surface. I will appreciate your advise and plan to purchase the products that you recommend.
A: The products designed for concrete expansion joint sealant are "Self Leveling Sealants". There are several types. I like the Novalink SL best, as it will seal joint up to 2" of width, is pre-tinted, single component and quick curing. Here is a link:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/SearchResult.aspx?categoryid=1151
Before applying, you clean the joint, add backer rod, tape outside top edges if desired (to form a straight seal line along the top) and apply sealant. Remove tape as soon as materials start to set.
Here is a link to the backer rod: You should use CLOSED CELL type of backer rod. Set backer rod to a depth of 1/2 the average width of the joint near the top.
http://www.bestmaterials.com/Backer_Rod.aspx
Joint cleaning can be done with wire brush or other power tools. Professional applicator use grinding blades like these:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/SearchResult.aspx?categoryid=1180
Do a small test area first to practice your technique. Email me with any questions or problems.
RE: Repair of Tear in RV EPDM Roof
Date: Mon, Jun 23, 2008 8:34 am
Q: I have a torn EPDM roof on my RV that is approximately 1 ft long. What’s the best to repair this? Is the White EPDM Coverstrip tape (6 inch wide) the best product? What other items should I purchase to complete the repair?
A:
The lowest cost / best repair is as follows:
1. Clean area using a plastic scrubber (no water, just scrubbing to freshen the surfaces to be sealed. Or use Eternaclean cleaner and rags and rub well. 2. Prime using Multipurpose Primer (only prime the area to be sealed, as primed areas will yellow a bit where exposed to the sun). 3. Peel and stick EPDM cover strip down. Extend past the tear area about 4 inches either way. 4. Roll the product aggressively to bond sealant to the old roof area.
Here are links to these item: Coverstrip and accessories (see bottom of detail page):
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=16016
You can use a wood roller as well for small repairs, such as this one:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=15008
RE: Sealant for Poured Concrete Roof
Date: Sun, Jun 22, 2008 5:17 pm
Q: I am looking for a roof sealant that would work well on a poured concrete roof. It needs to sustain high temperatures.
A:
Thank you for your inquiry! We have several systems which will withstand Arizona hot summer suns (we were 115 this week).
Sonoguard deck coating system is really good. It uses a basecoat, followed by a topcoat. If you are not trafficing over the roof area, aggregate layer is not needed. Topcoat surfaces are available in several colors. If you want a white finish deck then Polycoat PC440 base and Polglaze 400 white is good. We also have some really nice white marble roofing granules which can be applied to the top layer as an added heat reflective / tuff coat layer.
Here are links to these products:
Sonoguard:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=14930
Polycoat PC440 base:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=10686
Polyglaze 400 white topcoat:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=11193
White granules (for flat roofs).
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=11933
RE: Concrete Driveway Joint Sealant
Date: Sun, Jun 22, 2008 4:55 pm
Q:
Can you help me out with this problem? I have a concrete driveway and walkway, poured 15 years ago. There is ten-test between the brick wall and concrete sidewalk. The ten-test is sinking, and water has gotten under concrete and it moved slightly last winter, a lot of frost. Also some saw cuts have opened and water gets in base under driveway. I would like to seal along the house and in the saw cuts but the gap ranges from 1/4" to 1/2". Is there a caulking I can buy that will fill in and stop further water damage? Please advise.
A:
The products designed for concrete expansion joint sealant are "Self Leveling Sealants". There are several types. I like the Novalink SL best, as it will seal joint up to 2" of width, is pretinted, single component and quick curing. Here is a link:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/SearchResult.aspx?categoryid=1151
Before applying, you clean the joint, add backer rod, tape edges if desired and apply sealant. Remove tape as soon as materials start to set.
Here is a link to the backer rod: You should use CLOSED CELL type of backer rod.
http://www.bestmaterials.com/Backer_Rod.aspx
Joint cleaning can be done with wire brush or other power tools. Professional applicator use grinding blades like these:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/SearchResult.aspx?categoryid=1180
Do a small test area first to practice your technique. Email me with any questions or problems.
RE: swimming pool deck-to-pool
Date: Sun, Jun 22, 2008 4:36 pm
Q: We are looking for a sealant such as mentioned in the subject line above. This is needed for the pool tile to the coping on the deck. I hope that is correct. We have to apply while water is in the pool and up in a 45º corner. Can you help? Please reply ASAP. Thank you.
A: We have tested several sealants on my own pool for this application. The best long term performing product is Sonolastic 150 VLM. It outperforms regular joint grout, stays clean, is easy to clean and easy to apply. Here is a link to this product:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/SearchResult.aspx?CategoryID=1067
If you want something which looks textured, the TX1 is good. Cured, it looks like grout (especially the off-white which looks like aged white grount.
http://www.bestmaterials.com/tx1-textured-polyurethane-sealant-1089.html
But this chemistry does not seem as long lasting as the Sonolastic 150.
RE: waterproofing retaining wall behind tennis court
Date: Thu, May 22, 2008 9:53 am
Q: I am looking for a waterproofing system for the poured retaining
wall surrounding my new tennis court. The biggest problem is where
the 4 foot poured concrete wall sits on the slab. I am at the stage
where we need to apply a material that will keep water from coming
through the seem and wall itself. Then we will complete the french
drain below the slab. Please advise as to what products work best.
The wall is 4 foot high on the back and 25 feet more on both sides and
then tapers down to grade at center of court. I am guessing that the
sq. footage is around 500.
A: Here is some information to think about on a similar problem -- basement waterproofing:
Waterproofing an existing basement is a complex project with many options. Since we can't be there to see first hand the leak areas, construction, hill terrain, soil, exterior landscape and exterior drainage systems, we can only provide generalized answers. Also, budget, skills of repair person, how permanent of fix you want, odor during repairs and interior decorating issues affects the options.
SO, I will try and answer your inquiry in phases.
First, there is no permanent 100% waterproof system which can be applied from the inside. The problem in some cases is that the concrete is a sponge, absorbs water and causes corrosion of the reinforcement bars and steel. This is turn results in fracture and decomposition of the concrete and long term failure. The prevention is to dig around the outside down to the foundation footing and apply waterproof layers and joint sealants to the outside, preventing the water from getting into the concrete and joints. The floor is more difficult. It must be torn up, have waterproofing membranes laid down, then re-poured on top of this. All of which is WAY to expensive.
What can be done to greatly extend the life of and existing basement, and get rid of the water and moisture?
Here is what I would consider:
EXTERIOR:
1. Grade the soil outside the high sides of the house to slope away from the house at least 20 feet.
2. Along the newly graded slope area, at least at the bottom end of the slope, bury perforated drain pipe covered with stainless screen into a 1 foot wide x 2 foot deep rock/gravel trench. The "French drain" pipe will collect much of the water and drain it away from the house.
3. Bury a heavy duty waterproofing membrane at least 10 feet wide, down in the topsoil of the graded area. Connect and seal the waterproofing membrane to the foundation of the house up above the top of the soil line.
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=14960
4. Option: Refill soil area with CLAY soil, which is not so water absorbant.
4. Apply roof gutters to the house. Then have the downspouts connect to drain pipes which take the water well away from the house, and below the foundation grade.
The above actions will get rid of MUCH of the water, but not all. Depending on the soil, rain, water table and melting snow, the soil can still become saturated, and these actions may be less effective. But in many situations, this works quite well.
INTERIOR PHASE 1:
1. Strip down the basement walls and floors. Remove all existing sealants and caulks.
2. Power wash or sandblast / bead-blast the surfaces.
3. Allow to thoroughly dry (use fans and such as needed). This could take a couple weeks.
4. Prime all concrete surfaces joints and cracks using penetrating waterproofing primer, such as:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=9358
or
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=15025
5. Repair all cracks and decomposed concrete. This is a whole topic on its own we can cover later.
But if you are using the Aquaseal product, you prepare as follows:
All shrinkage and non-moving structural cracks under 1/16" shall be primed then pretreated with not less than a
30 wet mil coating of Polycoat-Aquaseal® 5000 extending 3" on either side of the crack. Bridge the joints, cracks, and flashing's with 4" (10 cm) Straight Jacket Tape, pushing it into Polycoat-Aquaseal® 5000 with a trowel. Over the reinforcement tape apply a stripe coat of Polycoat-Aquaseal® 5000 and smooth onto adjacent surface. All cracks over 1/16", moving structural cracks and cold joints, shall be routed to 1/4" wide by 1/4" deep, the area should be primed, a joint backing shall be inserted and the void sealed with an appropriate polyurethane sealant.
6. Use proper SEALANT on the joints and cracks:
Floor joints:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=11161
Wall, Corner Joints and cracks:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=15150
7. Install adequate permanent basement ventilation, if it does not already exist.
INTERIOR PHASE 2.
Now you have the final finishing options:
A. Eternabond Tape Sealant: Most expensive (about $2.70 per square foot). Most permanent. Allows for a lot of movement and future cracking. 100% waterproof. Also seals radon gases. NO odor. Easy to apply (1-step, peel and stick). Finish color can be black, white or gray. Can be painted over. 2 foot wide rolls will leave a small seam at the overlaps. The corners and wall to floor joint has an extra L shaped piece applied first, and the floor and wall coverings overlap this piece.
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=11336
B. Roll on AQUASEAL polyurethane waterproofing materials. (about $0.64/sq ft.). 2 coat minimum. Some odor (stronger than paint). Messy to apply. Requires respirator, depending on your basement and ventilation. Cures to a medium gray color. Paint-able. This is kind of a truck-bed liner material. Dries to a very tough surface slightly textured.
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=11185
IF your conditions are such that above does not 100% work, then you must resort to the excavation and exterior wall and floor waterproofing methods. A flood drain and exterior "french drains" along the base of the wall footing should be installed as well.
RE: RV Roof Replacement Procedure
Date: Thu, May 01, 2008 9:16 am
Q: I have some roof damage on my camper it is a 1995 model 36footer ,the damage is pretty bad looks like to me its been leeking quite sometime but we dont want to get rid of it i need to replace the whole cover with rubber roof but i dont know how to start it , i have to replace some the wood under it too about 4 to 5 ft to thee rear and maybe back wall do you have some ideas besides replace the whole camper.
A: Here is the detailed process for replacement of your RV roof.
Overview of Application Process: (after stripping and repairing substructure)
1. Clean rooftop surface well (broom then rags). (dry clean only - no water or chemicals)
2. Load material on roof.
EPDM Membrane (31 feet):
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=15884
3. Unfold EPDM membrane and position material (sometimes two sections are easier to apply than one big one.
4. Make any cuts needed to clear penetrations such as vents etc. Final position EPDM membrane.
5. Fold half of EPDM membrane back on itself. Wipe BOTH exposed surfaces with a clean rag to remove dust.
6. Evenly apply bonding adhesive using roller to a thickness of about 12 mils (50-60 sqft/gallon) to the base. Bonding adhesive (5 gallons to 6 gallons):
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=16013
7. Fold back the first half of roofing into the adhesive.
8. Using a stiff floor broom, brush the top surface of the roofing to remove any bubbles and seat material into adhesive.
9. Repeat 5-8 after folding the second half of EPDM membrane back of the side you just adhered.
10. Trim EPDM membrane material around penetrations (you generally run the EPDM up the side of the penetration). Apply adhesive around penetrations and adhere membrane.
11. Repeat 10 for edges areas.
12. If your EPDM membrane went on in two or more pieces you will have a seam to deal with. The seams are finished using primer and seam tape (double sided sticky butyl rubber sealant). The overlapping seams are designed with about 3 inches of overlap. Clean seam area (all surfaces to be bonded) using cleaner and rags. Both sides are primed. Primer dries in about 5-10 minutes. Then you place the bottom portion of the peel and stick tape. Then remove the top covering and fold the covering EPDM flap into the top of the seam tape. Then roll in the surface to firmly seal the materials together.
ALTERNATIVELY, you can use Eternabond DOUBLESTICK. It does not require the primer step, but you need to use ETERNACLEAN first on the surfaces. Here are these items (see bottom page of link for related items):
AFTER SEAMS glued together, clean surfaces with Eternaclean, then attach topcover tape over seam (yes you are creating a double seal):
LINKS:
EPDM Roofing Page:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/EPDM-Roofing.aspx
Installation Video (Click on the VIDEO movie):
http://www.weatherbondroofing.com/consumer/install/index.htm
RE: Torn EPDM roof repair
Date: Wed, Apr 09, 2008 11:07 am
Q:
I have a motorhome with a dicor rubber roof that is ten years old. It had a small air picket up front by the front air vent. After driving through a verry large wind storm the pocket has grown very large. Can I purchase some new glue from your store and pull up the front vent, place the glue in and then put the vent back down?
A: REPAIR OF TEAR IN RV EPDM ROOF (or fixing loose areas):
1. Make a few small slits along damaged area into good area using a razor knife so that you can peel back the tear to clean under it.
2. Clean BOTH the underlying roof surface AND underside of EPDM material well. Use a scrubber and Eternaclean cleaner. Let dry. If you cannot clean well, use Eternaprime primer on both surfaces. Let cure about an hour.
Cleaner:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=15748
Primer:
http://bestmaterials.com/SearchResult.aspx?KeyWords=eternaprime
3. Apply thin beads of M1 adhesive sealant OR Eternabond DOUBLESTICK tape, in the area UNDER the EPDM roofing materials which need to be re-stuck down. For the M1 sealant, spread out material (with a notched trowel or similar). Reapply EPDM Roofing to surface and walk on / squeegee with hand or roller to remove any bubbles.
For the DoubleStick, follow the instructions on the vidoe tape link below:
8. Inspect and repair other cracks in the roof with Eternabond as above. Check carefully around corners, edges and along the metal sealing strip areas.
RE: Scupper Repair
Date: Thu, Apr 03, 2008 6:34 am
Q: I need some advice Installing new scupper the existing roof is 10+ years old. I think my best bet is to install the flat intake on top of the existing roof "not the correct way" can you recommend a primer or cleaner should I try Eterabond or go with fiber mesh and primer ? Which tar if I use fiber glass mesh. The scupper I am buying is your RND 4x12. Thanks for any help!
A: The Eternabond products are compatible with all the roofing materials.
I would consider this:
1. Clean up as well as possible. Wire brush all rust away.
2. Use ETERNAPRIME on surfaces.
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=11025
3. Apply Eternabond WEBSEAL.
http://www.bestmaterials.com/SearchResult.aspx?CategoryID=1023
4. Apply a topcoat sealant over webseal. Recently, some roofers have used a layer of Novalink for this with good results. It was finished flat and smooth with a putty knife (think of it as a permanent wet patch material).
http://www.bestmaterials.com/SearchResult.aspx?categoryid=1158
RE: concrete crack repair and seal
Date: Wed, Nov 07, 2007 7:41 am
Q: I need help in ordering a concrete caulk. I have long cracks in my concrete that comes up to my house. What product should I order to close up the cracks so when water puddles close to the house, it doesn't wick up the wall and into my house?
A: Although we cannot be there to see the exact situation, the general proper repair for this is to grind cracks with a V-shaped grinding tool (called a crack chaser), clean cracks, stuff lower gap with backer rod, then fill with sealant.
Blade information:
http://www.diamondbladecenter.net/crack_chaser_blade.asp
Backer Rod:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=9616
Sealant:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/SearchResult.aspx?CategoryID=1068
Alternatively, you could just clean and caulk joint (fill surface of crack with sealant). This would not have the expansion and contraction shaped needed for real long term survival, but MAY work well. It really depends on the amount of movement in the concrete from season to season (what ever caused the cracks to begin with). Alternative caulking (not self leveling): (choose limestone for light gray and Aluminum gray for darker gray color)
http://www.bestmaterials.com/SearchResult.aspx?CategoryID=1067
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Roofing Repair,
Roofing Supplies,
RV & Trailer Roof Repair,
Safety Rail Systems, Sealants,
Sealing Washers,
Snow Guards,
Solar Fans,
Solar Roof Fans,
Sonolastic Clear 25, Stainless Nails/Fasteners,
Tarps,
Tile Bond,
Vents, Roof Vents
Popular suppliers
Active Ventilation,
AOSafety,
ASI Products,
Aztec Washer,
BASF,
Chem Link,
Chemrex,
Cleasby,
Compass International,
Degussa,
Dow Chemical,
Eagle,
ERB Safety, Falltech Safety Products,
Fry Reglet,
Green Bull,
Guardian Fall Protection,
Hatch Rail,
Hitachi,
IFG Fasteners,
Igloo Water Coolers®,
Leister,
Makita,
Master Flash Boots,
Maze Nails,
Mitsubishi, Milwaukee Tools,
Miro Industries,
Polycoat,
Polyguard,
Portals Plus,
Powers Fasteners,
ProTech,
RHH Foam,
Senco,
SFS Intec,
Sievert,
Sonneborn,
S&P,
Spotnails,
Steelhead,
Swan Secure,
Uniroof,
United Coatings,
Winco
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