HOUSEBOAT RE-ROOF PROCEDURE
Houseboats have it tough. The combination of
heat + humidity + UV rays are hard on any kind
of rooftop finish (except perhaps ceramic tile).
Regardless of what the warranty says, most
coatings will require a re-coat for maintenance
every 5-8 years (to maintain UV resistance
and a good appearance).
re-roofing or deck coating houseboats, the most difficult area to deal with is the old
caulking, waxes and water-repellant finishes. In marine applications, silicone based
materials are commonly
used. Nothing wants to stick to them (not even more silicone). You need
to decide if your are going to remove the old caulking, re-coat the
deck and then re-caulk, or try to terminate the new deck coating
materials around the old silicone caulking (really not the best way).
* Remove all loose
materials & all old caulking.
RECOMMENDED BEST PRACTICE FOR WALKING DECKS: (see non-traffic
deck options down below)
* Clean (do not use alcohol or alcohol diluted products).
* Sand fiberglass gel coat to expose a fresh surface
and provide a good "bite" for coatings.
* Re-caulk needed gaps (preferably with
* Apply a new
Sonoguard Deck System.
This system dries to a semi-gloss color tinted finish which is very
durable, stain resistant and long-lasting.
* Alternative: Sand lightly and coat
gel surface with 2 coats of
Polyglaze 400 white (very nice finish and durable). This will be somewhat slick,
like your original finish, and very durable.
SONOGUARD WATERPROOFING & TOPCOAT DETAIL:
1. Scrape away all existing patching materials and caulking.
Tip: Use a razor knife to cut out old silicone caulking.
2. Power-wire brush
or aggressively scrub with a plastic scrub pad or sandpaper all
surfaces where the old caulking was. You need to expose a fresh
traces of silicone waxes and silicone caulking much be removed. Remove
any silicone surface wax with a solvent based commercial automotive pre-paint wax
remover (not alcohol based).
SURFACE TEST: The cleaned
surface, once completely dry, should pass the "Tape Test" (no surface
elements lift off when masking tape is rubbed-on and peeled off).
Also, water should not "bead-up" on surface.
If in doubt, prime surface. Primers:
6. Re-check all caulking joints etc. Touch up and seal as needed with
7. Re-caulk all gaps, voids, sharp
inside corners and holes
M1 Sealant. Let cure 24 hours.
3. With roof penetrations (vents, hatches, etc), you have a choice to
remove them, or leave on and re-caulk around them. This would be a good
time to upgrade any of these. It's definitely simplest to leave them
on, but, definitely replace all rusty screws with new stainless ones. Remove all
caulking as above. Put
M1 sealant into the old screw holes and on screws before putting in
4. Sand all loose or rough deck coatings. An orbital sander works
best. Lightly sand areas which may have waxes or silicone treatments
until a fresh surface is exposed. Grit size is not too important. Your
new deck coating will fill and hide the sanding marks. A slightly rough finish
is better than smooth for best adhesion.
5. Remove as dust. Scrub clean all surfaces to be recoated and re-caulked. Use a TSP
type cleaner with a scrub
brush. Rinse well / power-wash. Let dry completely.
Caution: You may wish to mask
surfaces sensitive to cleaners.
8. Now you are ready for your new
TIP: Use a
disposable paint brush to do all detail / edge work in
base coat and topcoats, BEFORE applying the center / field areas.
self-leveling base coat at about 2.5 gallons
per 100 sq.ft. (one base coat is sufficient over fiberglass coats).
If surface is highly sloped, use
Sonoguard slope grade base coat, otherwise apply two thin layers
of the self-leveling base coat.
deck coat rubber granules
(or deckcoat sand) into wet
8.3 Let cure 24-48 hours.
8.4 Blow off excess rubber.
8.5 Topcoat with
Sonoguard Topcoat (in color of your choice) at 1.2g
gallons per 100 sq.ft. This is applied with a paint roller.
Two THIN coats are better than one
thick coat. TWO coats will result in improved color and is
recommended for any custom color product.
8.6 Let cure overnight before applying second coat
8.7 Topcoat AGAIN as in 8.5, but thinner (1 gallon per 100 sq.ft.).
8.8 Let cure 48 hours before heavy traffic.
NON-TRAFFIC DECK OPTIONS:
HT (high tensile). Dries quickly to a bright flat white. Takes
light occasional foot traffic. Easy clean-up.
OTHER NON-SKID COATINGS:
Rhino Top athletic court, pool-deck coating. This tintable
non-skid epoxy-acrylic super-tough coating is an outstanding
and easy to use product for coating concrete exposed to water and over
blacktop / asphalt surfaces (RHINO TOP WILL NOT COMPLETELY WATERPROOF
BALCONIES OR WOOD SURFACES, but it will protect the surfaces from
water damage). It provides a beautiful long lasting low-skid surface.
Rhino Top is recommended for sport surfaces, tennis courts, athletic
courts, around pools, for slippery walkways and where cool-deck might
be used. It is applied in just ONE DAY using standard paint roll-on
Roof Repair Items catalog
Roof Repair Info & Tips page.
RV Re-Roof Replacement page.
Deck Coatings Products pages
Common Questions Repair
What Tools Are
Each job is different,
but generally you just need to have on hand just some simple tools:
9" Paint Roller &
covers (for basecoat and topcoats).
* Plastic Pot Scrubber or sandpaper - For
sanding & cleaning roof repair surfaces.
Razor Knife or Roofers Scissors -
To cut Eternabond.
Putty Knife - To remove old unwanted
caulking or tool joints.
* Orbital sander.
Caulking Gun - to apply NP1.
* Roller - This is the most important
tool. It is CRITICAL to "roll-in" and
flow the Eternabond adhesive.
Rags & Xylene for tool clean-up (sorry we do not ship Xylene or
Need to Prime Before Applying Roof Repair
NEW galvanized metal materials should be primed
in areas to be sealed, as oil type contaminates can remain on the
How Are Seam Areas
Repaired & Re-Enforced before Recoating the Entire Roof?
Clean. Remove all silicones. Cut out
any loose areas. Prime if needed. Caulk any deep areas with
sealant and tool to a level surface. Let
sealant cure 1-3 days. Tape the joint using
fiberglass joint reinforcement cloth and basecoat as follows:
Brush on a 4 inch wide layer of Sonolastic basecoat; embed fiberglass cloth
into the basecoat; apply another layer of basecoat and feather out
to hide joint (like taping a sheetrock joint). A
putty knife is commonly used to finish joint.
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